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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  peliicuide 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
li  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


The 
totK 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dussous. 


□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicuides 


K 


X 


D 


The 
poss 
of  tf 
film! 


Orig 
begi 
the  I 
sion 
othe 
first 
sion 
or  ill 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualiti  indgale  de  I'impression 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


The 
shall 
TINl 
whic 

Map 
diffe 
entii 
begi 
right 
requ 
metl 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillat  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  fiimd  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ire 

J6tails 
es  du 
modifier 
er  une 
fiimage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  A  la' 
g6n4ro8it6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  rexemp;aire  filmi,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 

Les  exemplaires  origlnaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
origlnaux  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte 


re 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6.  11  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  has,  en  orenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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PROMINENT  POINTS  AD  J  A 


REFERENCES. 


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f>    l!rirlf/c  to  /i'lfft  /. 

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//   ClUtH/t"  //,/itf 


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A   1 


^SftJli»t«i««M»«,|»,, 


A  GUIDE  FOli  EVERY  VISITOR 


TO 


NIAGARA   FALLS. 


INCLUDING   THE   SOURCES   OF   NIAGARA,    AND    ALL    TLACFii 
OF   INTEUEtiT,   BOTH    ON    TUE 

AMERICAN   AND   CANADA   SIDE. 

EMBELLISHED   WITH 

TIEWS   OF   THE   FALLS,    AND    A    MAP   OF   THE   RIVER 
BY    THE    AUTHOR, 


(^ 


ALSO 


A   DESCRIPTION   OF   SEVERAL    ROUTES    FROM    THE   FALLS   Tf 

MONTREAL,  BOSTON,  SARATOGA    SPRIXCS,    VIA    LAKE 

ONTARIO,  LAKE  CHAMPLAIN,  ALBANY, 

NEW   YORK   itO. 


BY    F.    H.    eTOHNSON, 

PRACTICAL   SURVEYOR,  A  UF.SIDfcyT  AT  NIAGARA,   A5D  AUTHOR  OV 
MAPS  AND   STATISTICS   OF   THK   FALLS 


> 


ROCHESTER: 

D.  M.  DEWEY,  ARCADE  HALL. 


...    "J 


F 

J  6 


i 


Tii; 


y 


oi 


L. 


Entered  accorditiff  to  Act  of  Concrress,  in  the  year  1852,  bj 

F.    II.    JOHNSON, 

m  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  ]>istrict  Court  for  the  Northern  District 

of  New  York. 


.terB    typed  by 
BEADLE    (&    B  K  O  T  H  E  a, 


BUFFALO, 


.     '7 


1852,  by 
ern  District 


TO  THE  VISITOR. 

Tliis  is  tlie  on  ly  original,  coiTcct  and  reliable  work  in 
riKirket.  The  author,  for  several  years,  has  heen  personally 
and  familiarly  acquainted  with  all  the  points  of  interest 
of  this  "world's  wonder,"  and  great  pains  have  been 
taken  to  make  this  work  in  every  respect  correct,  and 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  The  different  routea 
and  places  are  so  arranged  and  minutely  described,  that 
the  stranger  cannot  be  misled  or  hesitate.  These  pages 
arc  given  to  the  public,  with  the  belief  that  something 
of  the  kind  is  needed,  inasmuch  as  works  written  by 
casual  observers,  are  either  unnecessarily  oblix  upon  some 
points,  or  not  sufficiently  clear  and  explicit  upon  others, 
to  meet  the  wishes  of  the  traveling  public.  This  diffi- 
culty, it  is  believed,  is  entirely  obviated  in  the  following 
f  pages. 

The  Author. 


i* 


I 


CONTENTS. 


The  Route  to  Goat  Island 9 

The    Bridge 9 

llapids    10 

Chapin  Island 11 

The   Toll-gate 11 

Goat  Island... 12 

Center  Fall  or  Cave  of  the  Winds 13 

Three  Profiles 14 

Luna  Island 14 

« 

Sam  Patch's  Leap 15 

Biddle  Stairs 16 

Prospect  Tower 18 

The  Horse  Shoe  Fall 18 

Quantity  of  Water 19 

Depth  of  Water  on  the  top  of  Horse  Shoe  Fall 19 

Gull   Island 20 

Three  Sisters 21 

BathiiiK  Place  of  Francis  Abbot,  the  Hermit 22 

Head  of  Goat  Island 23 

The  First  Proprietor  of  JS^iagara  Falls 25 

Iris  or  Goat  Island 26 

Local  Distances 27 

Spray 28 

Rainbows 28 

View  of  the  Falls  at  Xight 29 

"  •*        Sunrise 29 

"  "        Sunset 29 

Roar  of  the  Falls 30 

First  Impressions  of  Strangers 30 

Rise  of  the  River 31 

Fall    "  "       ,...,.31 

Prolmbility  of  Fowls  and  Fish  going  over  the  Falls  alive  32 

Crossing  the  river  above  the  Falls 32 

Winter  Scent' 32 

The  First  Man  who  saw  the  Falls 33 

Indian  Tradition 33 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Casualties 33 

Accidents  to  Strangers 36 

AVisit  to  Goat  Island  by  Moonlight 38 

The  Lunar  Bow 39 

A  Tour  to  Canada  by  Way  of  the  Ferry 40 

Ferry — American  Side 40 

Landing  on  tlie  Canada  Side 42 

Clifton   House 42 

The  Museum 43 

Table  Ruck 44 

Going  under  the  Falls 44 

Courage  of  Ladies 45 

Burning  Spring 46 

Chippewa 47 

Lundy 's  Lane  Battle-Field 47 

Local  Distances—  Canada  Side 48 

Fall  of  Table  Rouk..... 49 

A  Fissure  in  the  remaining  part  of  Table  Rock 51 

Burning  of  the  Caroline 54 

The  Line  between  the  two  Governments 55 

Ca:ial  Boat  on  the  Verge  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall 56 

Fort  Sclilosser * 56 

Indian  Offering  to  the  Falls 56 

Point  View 58 

Stanzas   59 

Lines GO 

A  Sabbath  at  Niagara CI 

To  Niagara 63 

Catlin's  Cave 65 

The  Route  to  Canada,  (Table  Rock,)  via  the  Suspension 

Bridge 66 

SuspensionSBridge 67 

Bender's  Cave 71 

A  Tour  to  the  Whirlpool 72 

Scene  at  the  Whirlpool 75 

Devil's  Hole 77 

Chasm  Tower 79 

Maid  of  the  Mist 79 

Hackmen  and  Carriages 79 

Local  Distances  about  the  Falls — American  Side 80 

Indian  Village 80 

Health  of  the  Falls 81 


...-33 
-"  -36 

....38 
...39 
--.40 
-..40 
...42 
...42 
...43 
...44 
-..44 
...45 
...46 
-.47 
-.47 
-.48 
-.49 
..51 
.54 
.55 
.56 


CONTENTS.  vii 

Garae 81 

Fishing 82 

AnmsemeDts 82 

Churches 82 

Hotels 83 

Indian  Curiosities 83 

liecessiou  of  the  Falls 84 

Niagara 93 

The  Upper  Lakes 94 

Lake  Michigan 95 

Detroit 97 

Amhcrstburg,  ( Upper  Canada, ) 97 

Sandusky 97 

Cleveland 97 

Ashtabula,  (Ohio,) 98 

Dunkirk,  (N.  Y.) 98 

Buffalo 98 

Black  Rock 98 

Tonawanta 98 

Northern  Koute 99 

Montreal  and  Troy  Route 99 

Lewiston 100 

Queenston 101 

Brock's  Monument.--.  - lOl 

Fort  Niagara 102 

Fort  George,  or  Newark 103 

Toronto 103 

Fort  Hope 104 

Cobourg 104 

Kingston 104 

Montreal 105 

Quebec 108 

Falls  of  Montmorenci 109 

]\Iontrenl  and  Saratoga  Route 110 

La  Prairie Ill 

Lake  Champlain Ill 

Isle  Aux  Noix Ill 

Rouse's   Point 112 

Ogdensburg  to  Boston 112 

Plattsburg 114 

Burlington 115 

Saratoga  Springs 116 


'^•A  I 


vm 


CONTENTS. 


Arausenients 122 

Ticouderoga 126 

Schenectady 128 

Amsterdam 128 

Palatine  Bridge 128 

Fort  Plain 128 

Little  Falls 128 

Herkimer 129 

Utica 129 

Trenton  Falls 129 

Syracuse 132 

Aubm-n 132 

Canandaigua 133 

Rochester 133 

Charlottesville 135 

Great  Sodus  Bay 135 

Oswego 135 

Sackett*s  Harbor 135 

Cape  Vincent 136 

Ogdensburg 136 

Lowell 138 

Boston 138 

Pui;pose  of  the  Monument  on  Bunker  Hill 140 


E 


-.122 

-.126 

•  A2S 

-.128 

-.128 

-.128 

-.128 

-.129 

..129 

..129 

L.132 

..132 

.133         1 

-i33         1 

.135         1 

.135          'i 

.135           1 

.135           1 

.136           1 

.136          3 

.138            i 

138           ^ 

140            1 

^laaa^ai  uiu: 


EVERY  MAN  HIS  OWN  GUIDE 


CHAPTER  I. 

It)e  ^oi|le  to  Got|t  J^lni)!)- 

If  the  visitor  stops  at  the  Cataract  House,  and 
wishes  in  the  fiv^t  ]>lace  to  view  the  scenery  on  Goat 
Island,  take  the  first  left  hand  street,  two  minutes' 
walk  brings  him  to  the  bridge  that  leads  to  the 
island.  If  at  the  Falls  Hotel,  pass  the  Buffalo  and 
Niagara  Falls  railroad  depot,  incline  to  the  left,  the 
bridge  leading  over  the  rapids  is  in  sights  and  but  a 
few  rpds  before  you.  If  at  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel, 
or  the  Niagara  House,  pass  up  Main,  take  the  first 
right  hand  street,  pass  the  depot,  incline  as  above  to 
the  left,  the  bridge  is  just  before  you. 

Leading  to  the  toll-gate,  on  Bath  Island,  is  about 
fifty  rods  above  the  Falls.  It  is  an  object  of  interest; 
and  the  inquiry  is  not  unfiequeutly  made,  how  was 


10 


EVERr    MAN    ins    OWN    GUIDE. 


it  ever  constructed  O'cr  siicli  a  trenieiKlous  I'apid. 
The  first  Lridirc  was  thrown  across  this  ani^rv  sti-eani 
in  1817,  near  the  gnst-niiil  on  Iris  or  Goat  Island, 
with  much  liazard  of  hfe,  and  great  expense.  It 
was  carried  away  by  tlie  ice  the  ensuing  spiing.  In 
1818,  another  was  constructed  where  Bath  Island 
biidge  now  stands,  by  the  Hon.  Augustus  Poller, 
and  General  P.  13.  Porter,  brothers,  the  proprietors 
of  the  island. 

A  suitable  pier  was  built  at  the  Avater's  edge; 
long  timbers  were  })rojccted  over  this  abutment 
the  distance  tliey  \\islied  to  sink  the  next  pier, 
loaded  on  the  end  next  to  the  shore  with  stone,  to 
prevent  moving;  legs  were  fi'amed  through  the  ends 
of  the  projecting  timbers,  resting  upon  the  rocky 
bottom,  thus  forming  temporary  piers  until  more 
substantial  ones  could  be  built.  Visitors  all  pass  this 
bridge  on  to  Goat  Island.  It  is  perfectly  safe ;  car- 
riages and  heavy  loaded  teams  cross  it  almost  every 
liour  in  the  day. 

The  next  thincj  that  attracts  the  attention  of  the 
visitor,  as  he  ])asses  on  his  route  to  Goat  Island,  is 
the  rapids.  These  are  grand  and  impressive;  thou- 
sandj-i,  in  the  summer  season,  particularly  when  tho 
sky  is  cl(\ar,  stand  upon  this  bridge,  and  gaze  upon 
the  angry  Hood,  as  it  rushes  jsast  thtnn,  in  all  its  wild 


I 
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Fi] 

aractj 
river 
seven 
final 


CIIAnx  S    rSLAND THE    TOLI.-CATE. 


11 


and  tunniltuoiis  furj',  fiUiiirf  tlie  mind  with  emotions 
of  awe  and  indesciibablo  frrandeur. 
m  From  the  head  of  Goat  Island,  to  the  grand  cat- 

aract, a  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  the 
river  falls  fifty-one  feet.  It  increases  in  velocity  fi'cni 
seven  to  fifteen  miles  per  hour,  before  it  makes  the 
final  plunge. 

This  island  is  to  the  right  of  the  bridge,  within  a 
few  rods  of  the  American  Fall.  A  man  by  the 
name  of  Chapin,  while  working  on  this  bridge,. was 
tlirown  into  the  stream,  and  carried  by  the  force  of 
the  current  on  to  this  island.  A  Mr.  Joel  R.  Robin- 
son rescued  him  with  a  skiff,  and  at  this  time,  both 
are  hving  in  our  village.  Hundreds  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  witnessed  this  bold  and  daring  adven- 
ture, which  few,  at  so  much  hazard  of  life,  would 
have  the  nerve  to  attempt. 

Stands  on  Bath  Island.  An  excellent  bathinc: 
house,  of  warm  and  plunging  baths,  is  kept  in  fine 
order,  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors;  open  at  all 
hours  of  the  da}^,  until  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  By 
reo'istering  your  names  at  the  gate,  and  paving 
twenty-five  cents,  entitles  you  to  all  the  juivileges  of 
(xoat   Island    for  the  ourn.-nt  vear,  or  duriiin:  vour 


,1 


■"i 


12 


o. 


evehy  man  his  own  guide. 


stay.  Here  is  constantly  kept  a  large  assoiiraent 
of  Indian  work,  and  other  cunosities.  The  small 
islands  to  the  left  of  the  toll-gate,  are  called  Ship 
and  Big  Islands,  taking  their  names  somewhat  from 
their  shape.  The  large  building  to  the  right,  is  a 
'  paper  mill,  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  extensive 
in  the  state. 

The  next  point  of  interest  after  passing  a  small 
bridge,  is  Iris  or  Goat  Island.  The  Indian  Empo- 
rium on  your  left,  is  the  only  house  inhabited  on 
the  ishmd.  A  lai'ge  assortment  of  Indian  work  is 
ke[!t  constantly  on  hand  and  for  sale;  a  delightful 
place  to  rest.  Ice  cream  and  strawberries  furnished 
in  their  season.  Here  are  thi*ee  wavs,  the  left  leads 
to  the  head  of  Goat  Island,  tlie  middle  one  across 
the  ishind  to  the  rapids,  about  sixty  ro<;ls  above  the 
Horse  Shoe  Fall.  But  most  of  the  visitors  do,  and 
we  will,  if  you  please,  take  to  the  right,  from  the 
fact  that  we  get  the  less  impressive  view  of  the  Falls 
at  first,  and  the  most  gi'and  and  imposing  last; 
which,  in  the  opinion  of  the  author,  gives  the  mind 
more  time  to  ajtpreciate  the  magnificent  grandeur, 
and  awful  sublimity  of  these  mighty  works.  Eighty 
rods  brinjxs  us  to  the  foot  of  the  island. 

The  liist  small  sheet  of  water  nearest  you,  is  the 
Center  ]'\i]|,  ur  Ca^e  of  the  \Vinds;  it  is  ab'>ut  half 
way  ijc!:v,.j,-ii  tii-  AirsL-ii'-aii.  ;;ii  I  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall. 


IS 

is 

si) 

la 


■"^ 


CENTER    FALL    OR    CAVE    OF    THE    AVINDS. 


13 


rnent 
sraall 
Ship 
from 
is  a 
isive 


on 

:  is 


This  cave  is  between  Goat  and  Luna  I?lanJ.  It 
is  seen  to  the  Lest  advantage  from  below,  if  the  wind 
is  blowing  down  the  river,  or  from  the  American 
shore;  you  can  stand  with  perfect  safety  upon  a 
large,  flat  rock,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  falling  sheet, 
without  inconvenience,  or  getting  the  least  wet.  In 
the  afternoon,  when  the  sun  shines,  there  is  always 
a  splendid  and  beautiful  rainbow,  between  the  sheet 
of  water  and  the  rock,  within  a  few  feet  of  you,  and 
this  is  the  only  place  on  the  globe,  as  far  as  the  au- 
thor can  learn,  fi-om  history  and  from  travelers, 
where  a  rainbow,  an  entire  circle  like  a  ring,  can  bo 
seen.  Two  and  sometimes  three  have  been  seen  at 
once.  Notliing,  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  can  bo 
more  gi'and  and  imposing  than  this  view.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  astoundinir  scenes  on  the  American  side. 

Width  of  the  cave  is  one  hundred  feet^  diameter 
sixty,  heighth  one  hundred.  The  enterprising  pro- 
j)rietor  has  erected  convenient  seats,  with  good,  sub- 
stantial railing,  which  leads  you  into  this  cave, 
between  the  sheet  of  water  and  the  rock,  on  to  a 
platform  beyond. 

It  is  much  visited  both  by  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
not  only  for  the  novelty  of  one  of  the  grandest 
shower  baths  on  earth,  but  the  scenery  is  perfectly 
indescribable- 


'^ 


14 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


These  profiles  are  at  the  foot  of  Goat  Island.  In 
looking  across  the  first  sheet  of  water,  directlv  »^nder 
the  second,  the  lowest  point  of  rock  that  cun  be 
seen  is  a  side  view  of  three  profdes,  one  -liiectly 
above  the  other.  They  appear  about  two  feet  long, 
and  much  re8end)Ie  ihe  work  of  human  hands ;  the 
middle  one  is  generally  considered  by  strangei'S  to 
be  the  most  distinct. 

Luna,  a  Latin  term  meaning  moon.  It  is  a  small 
island  containing  about  three-fourths  of  an  acre,  to 
tlie  right  of  Goat  Island,  reached  by  a  foot-bridge. 
It  is  called  Luna  Island,  not  because  it  resembles  the 
moon,  but  from  the  circumstance  of  a  lunar  bow 
being  seen  from  this  place  more  advantageously 
than  from  any  other  point.  If  the  visitor's  nerves 
are  pretty  steady,  he  can  stand  within  one  foot  of  the 
Falls,  and  see  the  angry  stream,  dashing  in  all  its 
wildest  fury  upon  the  large  rocks  below,  impatient 
to  try  its  power  in  making  this  feaiful  leap.  The 
sheet  of  water  to  the  right  is  the  American  Fall ;  to 
the  left,  the  Center  Fall  or  Cave  of  the  Winds.  It 
has  often  been  remarked  by  strangers  that  this 
island  trembles,  which  is  undoubtedly  true,  but  the 
impressions  ai'e  somewhat  heightened  from  nervous 
temperament. 


eigll 
the 

Fall 


HAM    PATCH  S    LEAP. 


15 


It  was  ut  tills  ])()iiif,  after  we  pass  a  small  foot- 
bridge about  twonty-li\o  feet  above  the  Fall*,  that 
young  Miss  Autoiiietto  Do  Forest  of  Buffalo,  aij^ecl 
eight  years,  by  some  unaccountable  casualty  fell  into 
the  river,  and  Charles  Addi no-ton,  aijed  twentv-two, 
jumped  in  to  save  her,  and  they  both  went  over  the 
Falls  together,  June  21st,  1840. 

The  body  of  the  girl  was  found  much  mutilatcil, 
the  next  day,  and  that  of  the  youuLT  man  tloated 
four  or  live  days  afterwar-l,  wheii  it  was  lecovered 
and  buried  in  the  villao-e  bui'vincc  ir>'ound.  This 
was  one  of  the  most  afllictive  sci'Ues  that  has  occuried 
within  our  recc^Uection.  Ixetm-n  by  the  same  way 
to  Giiat  Island.  After  resting  a  few  moments,  pjuis 
up  the  liver  to  a  sign  on  a  tree,  Biddle  Stairs. 

Is  on  tlie  west  side  of  Goat  Island,  near  Biddle 
Stairs.  /This  celebrated  person  made  two  successful 
leaps  in  the  year  1820,  ninety-seven  feet  perpendic- 
ular, into  the  riyer  below.  Question  by  the  \isitor: 
How  was  this  done?  A  ladder  was  raised,. the  bot- 
tom resting  on  the  edge  of  the  river,  the  toj)  inclin- 
ing over  it.  Stayed  by  ropes  to  the  trees  on  the 
bank,  on  the  top  of  wliich  was  a  small  platform,  he 
stood  gazing  upon  the  nudtitude  in  Canada.  The 
carriage-road  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  liver,  and 
every  other  point  where  there  was  the  lea-t  prof^pect 


10 


EVERV    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


of  seeing,  was  filled  with  Ladies  and  gentlemen^ 
attracted  to  the  place  Ly  a  man  going  to  jump  over 
the  Fiills.  "One  thing,"  said  he,  "can  bo  done  as 
well  as  another,"  bowed  to  the  Jiudience,  stepped  off 
the  platform,  and  went  down  feet  foremost.  Q. 
How  much  did  he  get  for  the  job  ?  A.  This  is  not 
known,  as  it  was  a  project  got  np  by  the  tavern- 
keepers  to  attract  attention;  whatever  they  gavo 
him,  they  kept  to  themselves.  Q.  IIow  deep  is  tlio 
river  where  he  went  in.  A.  About  liftv  feet.  Q. 
How  deep  did  he  go  down  ?  A.  It  is  difficult  to 
answer  this  question  correctly  —  probably  not  more 
th.-in  lift  ecu  or  twentv  feet.  Water  is  exccedinn'Iv 
buoynut;  when  the  accelerated  force  of  the  jump  an  as 
spent,  lie  would  instantly  rise.  Q.  How  long  did 
lie  remain  under  water.  A.  Some  said,  lie  wjis 
gone  for  good,  others  allh'med  it  was  five  minutes: 
but  a  gentleman  holding  his  watch  informed  ns,  it 
was  just  half  a  minute  before  lie  rose.  Q.  What 
became  of  the  foolhardy  fellow?  A.  He  made  a 
jump  at  Rochester,  Genesee  Falls,  the  same  year, 
which  was  his  last.     His  body  was  never  found. 

Are  on  tlio  west  side  of  Goat  Island,  near  the 
foot.  TIk^v  Avere  erected  bv  Nicholas  Biddle,  late 
president  of  the  United  States  Il-nik.  "Make  us 
something,"  said  he  to  the  workmen,  "to  descend 


and 
the 
tene( 
perfi 


rUOSPECT    TOWER. 


17 


er 
na 


and  seo  'vvliat  in  below.'*  Tlicso  stairs  arc  spiral  on 
the  inside,  lirnily  secured  by  heavy  iron  bolts  fas- 
tened into  the  solid  rock,  and  are,  wo  believe, 
2 perfectly  safe. 

At  tlio  foot  aro  two  paths  Icadinor  in  opposite 
directions;  the  one  up  the  river  leads  toward  the 
Jloi-se  Shoo  Fall,  but  the  path  is  so  much  obstructed 
by  rocks  Avhich  have  fallen,  and  the  bank  is  so  steep, 
that  it  is  extremely  dillicult  to  get  within  thirty  rods 
of  the  Horse  Shoo  Fall.  But  the  best  view,  dc<Md- 
edly,  is  to  turn  down  the  river  a  few  rods,  and  the 
Center  Fall  or  Cave  of  the  Winds  bursts  upon  the 
astonished  sight,  with  all  its  terrific  grandeur.  The 
impending  rocks  hanging  over  you,  so^aetirnos  fill 
the  visitor  with  alarm  lest  they  might  fall,  but  they 
seldom  fall  in  the  summer  season,  and  no  accident 
has  occurred  since  the  year  1829.  For  number  of 
steps  see  local  distances,  page  28  Ascending  tlicso 
stairs  on  his  return,  (for  there  is  no  other  way,)  it 
he  ti'avels  very  slowly,  he  will  avoid  much  fatigue. 

On  his  return  to  Goat  Island,  pass  up  the  river 
about  sixty  rods  to  a  small  bouse  built  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  island,  for  the  purpose  of  rest.  De- 
scend the  banky  cross  a  small  bridge  to  the  tower. 
This  is  called  Prospect  Tower, 


18 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


This  tower  is  on  the  west  side  of  Goat  IshinJ, 
within  three  rods  of  the  Falls ;  forty-five  feet  high,  and 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  river  below,  surrotmded 
near  the  top  by  a  portico  and  an  iron  railing.  Vis- 
itors of  a  nervous  temperament,  and  especially  old 
people,  when  stepping  out  upon  this  piazza,  not  un- 
frequently  feel  a  kind  of  giddiness  or  tremor ;  but 
in  looking  up  or  around  upon  the  green  foliage,  the 
nerves  generally  become  tranquil.  We  are  then  bet- 
ter prepared  to  appreciate  the  overwhelming  gran- 
deur of  this  magnificent  scene.  This  view,  in  the 
opinion  of  the  author,  of  the  width  of  the  river,  the 
rapids,  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall  and  the  angry,  boiling 
deep  below,  is  not  surpassed  by  any  on  the  American 
side. 

The  river  below,  in  its  wild,  tumultuous  fury, 
produces  a  perfect  foam  like  suds,  and  has  frequently 
been  called  the  river  of  milk. 

This  is  the  entire  circle  from  the  American  to  tlie 
Canadian  side  of  the  river.  Its  width  by  calculation 
k  one  hundred  and  forty-four  rods.  It  derived  its 
name  from  its  shape,  but  it  must  have  altered  much 
since  it  was  first  named,  as  large  masses  of  rock  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Horse  Shoe,  fall  every  year 


QUANTITY   OF   WATER. 


19 


Imd, 
land 


Professor  Lyell  says,  fifteen  liimdred  millions  of 
cubic  feet  pass  over  the  Falls  every  minute.  Dr. 
Dwight  says,  one  hundred  millions  two  hundred 
thousand  tons  pass  over  the  Falls  every  hour.  Judge 
De  Vaux,  in  his  Traveler's  Own  Book,  says,  five 
thousand  eighty-four  millions  eighty-nine  thousand 
eight  hundred  fifty-three  barrels  descend  in  twenty- 
four  hours ;  two  hundred  eleven  millions  eight  hun  ■ 
dred  thirty-six  thousand  eight  hundred  fifty-three 
every  hour ;  three  millions  five  hundred  thirty  thou- 
sand six  hundred  fourteen  every  minute;  fifty-eight 
thousand  thi-ee  hundred  forty-three  every  second. 
"I  should  think,"  says  one,  "that  the  river  would 
exhaust  itself."  True,  ^vhen  the  upper  lakes  run 
drv,  I^iaofara  will  be  no  more. 

Other  estimates,  by  scientific  gentlemen,  have  been 
made,  arriving  at  nearly  the  same  results. 

5)jf)tl)  of  -Uliifcl^  oi]  i[-)i  iop  of  ifo^3^  §l)oe  IqlL 

It  is  estimated,  by  Pi-ofessor  Lyell  and  others,  to 
be  tweiitv  feet  in  the  center,  or  where  the  water 
looks  so  green.  There  is,  liowever,  a  better  data  to 
iuscertaiu  this  fact,  than  all  the  calculations,  however 
learned.  The  ship  Detroit  being  condemned  on  the 
lake,  was  bought  by  a  company,  loaded  with  a  live 
butialo,  bear,  deer,  fox  and  other  animals,  was  sent 


20 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


hi''' 


over  the  Falls  in  the  year  1829.  She  was  knocked 
to  pieces  in  the  rapids,  except  about  half  of  her  hull, 
which  was  filled  with  water.  It  drew  eighteen  feet, 
and  passed  over  the  point  of  the  Horse  Shoe,  clear, 
without  touching.  Hundreds  saw  her  make  this 
fearful  plunge,  and  I  have  no  doubt  in  my  own 
mind  that  the  estimates  are  correct.  This,  then, 
gives  a  solid  column  of  water  on  the  top  of  the  rock, 
twenty  feet,  or  as  deep  as  an  ordinary  well. 

This  is  a  small  island  just  above  the  Hoi'se  Shoe 
Fall.  It  has  never  been  approached  by  man,  and 
perhaps  never  will  while  Niagara  rolls,  unless  a  sus- 
pension bridge,  or  some  other  means  are  devised.  It 
took  its  name  from  the  quantity  of  gulls  that;,  late 
in  the  fall  and  early  in  the  spring,  light  upon  it, 
and  some  think  hatch  their  young  there;  at  all 
events  they  are  not  disturbed,  and  ai'o 

**Monarchs  of  all  they  survey, 
Their  rights  there  are  none  to  dispute." 

The  \asitor,  after  spending  what  time  he  wishes 
on  Prospect  Tower,  will  return  to  the  bank.  If  he 
wishes  to  reach  his  hotel  by  the  nearest  route,  with- 
out going  round  by  the  head  of  the  island,  take  a 
small  path  dhocUy  back  of  the  building  fronting 
Prospect  Tower.     This  is  a  pleasant  walk  leading  to 


the 

one- 

his 

objc 


THREE    LISTERS. 


21 


3ar, 


the  bridi^e,  and  shortens  the  distance  more  than 
one-half.  But  we  will  suppose  lie  wishes  to  continue 
his  rambles  around  Goat  Island,  as  there  are  many 
objects  to  excite,  and  will  peculiarly  interest  him. 

The  best  point  to  get  a  correct  view  of  the  shape 
of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  is  about  foity  rods  up  the 
river,  from  the  point  where  you  ascend  the  bank 
from  the  toAver,  near  a  small  stone  monument,  di- 
rectly in  his  path,  marked  with  a  cross  on  the  top, 
set  by  the  surveyors  to  ascertain  if  the  Falls  recede. 
Let  him  step  to  the  bank,  and  lie  will  get  one  of  the 
best  views  of  the  shape  of  the  Horse  Shoe  there  is, 
on  either  side  of  the  river. 

As  the  visitor  passes  up  the  river,  he  will  notice 
piers  filled  with  stone  near  the  water's  edge.  These 
were  made  by  the  proprietor  of  the  island,  to  pre- 
vent the  bank  from  w^ashing.  The  next  thing  he 
notices  is  thi-ee  small  islands  near  the  shore.  These 
are  called 

A  man  by  the  name  of  A.  P.  Allen,  some  eight 
years  since,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  river  in  a  skiff^ 
from  Chippewa,  unfortunately  broke  one  of  his  oars ; 
but  with  a  skill  and  coolness  never  surpassed,  he 
managed  to  reach  the  outer  island,  jumped  ashore, 
while  his  skiff  darted  on  like  an  aiTow  over  the 
Falls.  Though  saved  from  immediate  death,  yet 
his  situation  was  perilous  in  the  extreme,  the  hope 


22 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUTDE. 


of  rescue  was  extremely  doubtful  and  starvation 
was  starino;  liim  in  the  face.  Two  nidits  and  one 
dav  lie  remained  upon  this  lonely  spot.  He  struck 
a  fire,  the  smoke  wreathed  in  columns  above  the 
tree-tops.  Great  numbei's  of  our  citizens  assembled, 
and  heard  his  cries  for  help.  At  length  a  rope  was 
thrown  across  from  one  island  to  the  other,  and  bv 
means  of  a  skiff,  the  same  intrepid  Robinson  that 
rescued  Chapin,  succeeded  in  l)ringing  him  safe  to 
shore.     Both  are  living  in  our  village  at  this  time. 

^[|fi)I»]cj  1?ii|ee  of  f  ^(|i]ci^  2ibbof,  il)e  ifeh^iif. 

The  bathing  })lace  of  Francis  Abbot  is  on  the 
west  side  of  Goat  Island,  the  first  perpendicular  cas- 
cade after  leaving  Prospect  Tower,  near  the  three 
islands  called  the  Three  Sisters,  lie  was  learned, 
gentlemanly  and  accomplished,  pleasing  in  address, 
but  could  not  be  approached  by  a  stranger;  he 
lived  nearly  twenty  months  entirely  alone.  He  was 
drowned  below  the  ferry,  in  tlie  year  1831.  His 
body  was  found  at  Fort  Niagara,  fourteen  miles 
below,  recognized,  brought  back  and  sleeps  in  our 
burying  ground.  This  lonely  spot  was  resorted  to 
by  this  singular  individual  generally  at  night.  The 
thunder's  terrific  sound,  the  lightning's  blaze  mingled 
with  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  was  the  element  in 
whicli  he  delighted  to  breathe.  Very  little  is  known 
of  his  history. 


i 


.# 


HEAD   OF   GOAT   ISLAND. 


23 


ion 
)ne 
ick 
lie 
ed, 
ras 

lat 
to 


At  tliis  point,  Navy  Island,  near  tlie  Canada  sLore 
to  tbo  rigiit,  containing  tlnee  lumdred  and  forty 
acres,  the  scene  of  tlie  MoKenzie  war  in  1837-oiS, 
is  in  plain  siglit.  It  was  occupied  by  three  or  four 
Imndred  Americans  —  a  heteroo:eneous  mass  of  all 
classes,  without  discipline,  or  any  efficient  means  to 
carry  on  war.  Chippewa,  on  the  Canada  shore  but 
a  short  distance  below,  contained  at  the  time  four  or 
five  thousand  British  soldiers.  The  two  governments 
took  no  active  part  in  this  hot-headed  enterprise, 
and  it  fell  by  its  own  weight.  Grand  Island  is  to 
the  left  on  the  American  side,  resembling  the  main 
shore,  containing  seventeen  thousand  two  hundred 
and  forty  acres,  purchased  by  M.  M.  !N'oah,  and  ac- 
cordino;  to  his  fancied  visions  it  was  to  be  the  future 
home  of  all  the  Jews  on  the  globe.  The  visitor  in 
turning  his  eye  to  the  right  and  left,  will  readily 
perceive  how  this  island  divides  the  river,  the  greater 
portion  rolling  to  the  Canada  shore. 

It  would,  while  passing  the  bridge,  be  thought  in- 
credible that  any  person  could  reach  the  island 
before  any  bridge  was  built.  Yet  such  is  the  foct; 
as  early  as  1705,  several  French  officers  were  con- 
veyed  to  it  by  Indians  in  canoes,  carefully  dropping 
down  the  river,  between  the  dividing  waters  where 
the  river  for  some  Httle  distance  is  calm,  and  Peter 
B.  Porter  of  Black  Bock,  with  some  other  gentlemen, 


1    i 


i 


24 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


also  made  a  trip  to  tlio  island  in  a  boat.  They 
found  but  little  trouble  in  descending,  but  their 
return  was  difficult  and  hazardous.* 

It  was  efiected  by  shoving  the  boat  Avith  setting 
poles  up  the  most  shallow  part  of  the  current  for  a 
half  a  mile,  before  making  for  the  shore.  Falling 
into  the  current,  within  a  mile  of  the  Falls,  must  be 
fatal.  Several  accidents  of  this  kind  have  happened, 
but  all,  as  far  as  the  author  can  recollect,  wero 
hurried  on  to  destruction. 

It  is  but  a  few  years  since  an  Indian,  partially  in- 
toxicated, on  attempting  to  cross  the  river  in  a  canoe, 
was  drawn  into  the  rapids.  Finding  all  efforts  to 
reach  the  shore  unavailing,  he  took  a  good  horn  of 
whiskey,  lay  down  in  his  canoe,  passed  rapidly  over 
the  Falls,  plunged  into  the  yawning  vortex  below 
and  disappeared  forever.  At  this  point,  the  head 
of  Goat  Island  where  we  are  now  standing,  it 
can  be  more  satisfactorily  explained,  why  it  was 
called  Goat  Island.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Sted- 
man,  about  seventy  years  since,  put  some  goats  upon 
the  island,  which  remained  there  nearly  two  years. 
He  reached  the  island  and  returned  the  same  way 
ds  the  Indians  and  others  had  done. 

The  old  clearing  you  notice  at  the  left,  some  part  of 
it  is  an  Indian  burying  ground,  but  of  the  tribe  to 

*  Trees  marked  1705  and  17G9,  were  within  a  few  years 
past,  clearly  to  be  seen. 


i 


THE  FIRST  PROPRIETOR  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS.     25 

whom  it  belonged,  notliing  definite  is  known.  It  is 
supposed  by  some  they  were  the  Iroquois.  The  fol- 
lowing lines  wei^  composed  by  a  young  lady  from 
Boston,  while  seated  under  the  shade  of  a  cedar,  at 
the  head  of  Goat  Island,  looking  over  the  graves  of 
the  warriors,  the  mighty  dead,  who  slumber  in  si- 
lence here.  Indian  bones  have  been  exhumed  within 
a  few  jesLYs, 

The  white  man  has  driven  the  Indian  away, 

Far  from  Niagara's  shore; 
No  more  is  he  permitted  to  stay 

And  hear  the  loud  Cataract  ix)ar. 


The  war-whoop  that  echo'd  o'er  Niagara's  islea, 

Has  long  since  died  away ; 
Far  in  those  lonely  wilds, 

Where  the  wild  wolf  devours  his  prey 

In  the  distant  wilds  of  the  west. 

The  red  man  sought  for  repose, 
Where  the  mind  and  body  would  be  at  rest. 

Away  from  the  white  men  —  his  foes. 

To  the  home  of  his  fathers  the  chieftain  has  gone. 

No  more  will  he  lead  forth  the  brave  to  the  battle. 
His  warrioi-s  no  longer  around  him  will  throng, 

Where  the  swift  aiTows  fly  and  the  armor  doth  rattle. 

No  more  will  his  name  produce  terror  and  dread. 

Nor  his  arm  be  uplifted  to  strike  the  death  blow  ; 
3 


:  I 


4 


20 


EVERV    MAN    HIS    OV.N    GUIDE, 


Low  ho  slooprj  i;i  tlie  «ln.st  wJjnre  slumber  llie  dead. 
While  tlie  ]>]afits  of  the  valley  over  him  grow. 

Tlic  Irihe  lliat  once  ff^llowcd  their  cliief  to  tlie  fight- 
Like  the  mist  o'er  Nia^'-ara,  how  vanished  awav  ! 

Far  from  llie  land  of  Ihcir  hirtli  they  liave  taken  their  flight, 
'J'he  once  noble,  and  valiant,  and  brave,  wbere  are  tbey  ? 

"Wa  ^^i]\  now  return  to  tlio  hotel.  Sixty  rods 
LiImi^s  us  to  the  former  residence  of  Francis  Abbot, 
11 1(3  lien  nit  of  IS'i.'iOTra.  It  was  an  ol'd  loo'-house  on 
the  cast  side  of  the  island,  btit  witLin  a  few  years 
lias  l)e('n  taken  down.  Here  lie  ]i\'ed  for  twenty 
months  entirely  alone,  as  he  could  not  be  approached 
by  a  stiaiiL;'er;  thougli  g'cntlemanly  and  acconi- 
])lis]ied,  JiMvinp^  seen  niuch  of  the  woi'ld,  and  possess- 
iui;'  a  nihid  i-e|)lcte  ^^ith  iiseftd  knowledge,  yet  he  held 
converse  with  none,  except  a  few  confidential  friends. 

A  few  things  wt3  Avill  pass  in  review,  in  reference 
to  this  I'oiite,  before  avo  take  a  trip  to  Canada,  or 
leave  tliis  enchanting  sj^ot  forever, 

I  IMS    Ol'    CiO^f    j3lQi]9. 

Iris  or  (^Toat  Island  contains  sixtv-nine  and  a  half 
acres,  is  a  fraction  over  a  mile  in  circumference,  and 
Iieavily  timbered.  Most  of  the  smootli  bark  trees  are 
m.'U'ked  with  initials  bearina*  dilferent  dates.  "In 
ISO."),"  says  Judge  Porter,  ''there  was  a  beech  tree 
on  the  bank  near  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  marked 


LOCAL    DISTANCES.  2Y 

1779,  1771  and  1772."  The  Dames  of  tliese  early 
ti'avelers  are  not  recollected. 

No  sportsman  is  allowed  to  carry  a  gun  on  to  this 
island,  as  it  would  eiulaiia'cr  the  lives  of  those  who 
are  promenading  through  it.  It  is  called  (jloat 
Island,  from  the  circumstance  of  a  man  by  the  name 
of  Stedman,  at  a  very  early  date,  having  put  some 
goats  upon  it.  It  is  a  wild,  rural  and  delightful  re- 
treat ;  in  the  hottest  days,  there  is  always  a  refresh- 
ino:  and  invi<xoratino:  breeze  from  the  river.  There 
are  three  bridges  connected  with  this  island  and  one 
tower. 

The  visitor  will  perceive  there  is  an  excellent  car- 
riage-road entirely  round  the  island,  and  if  he 
chooses,  he  can  get  a  good  carriage  to  carry  a  party 

of  six  or  eight  at  an  expense  usually  of  one  dollar 
per  hour.  .    , 

Local  distances  connected  with  Goat  Island,  are 
as  follows : 

From  the  Cataract  House  to  Goat  Island 75  rods. 

From  the  En^^Ie 70  " 

From  the  Falls  Hotel 85  " 

From  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel 110  " 

From   Goat  Island,  where  the  road  ascends  the 

bank  to  the  foot 80  '» 

Frcm  foot  of  the  island  and  up  the  river  to  Biddle 

Stairs 15  ** 


i 


28  EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

From  Biddlc  Stairs  to  rrosj^ect  Tower G5  rod* 

From  Prospect  Tower  to  the  Three  Sisters 150     " 

Head  of  Goat  Island C5     " 

Hermit's  Cabin 40    " 

TotbeBridge 45     " 

Circumference  of  Goat  Island 376     " 

The  whole  distince  from  the  Cataract  House  ai'ound  the 
island,  is  one  and  a  half  miles  and  a  fraction  over. 

Number  of  steps  about  Goat  Island. 

Foot  of  the  island 22 

Biddle  Stairs 115 

Prospect  Tower 39 

Spray,  lil\e  smoke  of  a  burning  mountain,  some- 
times rises  into  the  horizon,  forming  dark,  heavy 
clouds,  tinged  with  the  refulgent  rays  of  the  rising 
and  setting  sun,  wliich  have  been  seen,  says  Judge 
Porter,  more  than  one  hundred  miles. 

There  are  two : —  One  is  always  seen  in  the  day- 
time, when  the  »nn  shines;  the  other  at  niglit  — 
called  the  Lunar  Bow.  The  latter  is  only  beheld 
once  a  month,  when  the  moon  is  at  full,  sufficiently 
high  in  the  heavens,  and  the  sky  clear.  And  Niag- 
ara, as  far  as  the  author  can  learn  from  travelers  and 
from  history,  is  the  only  place  on  the  globe,  where 


a  Yi 

At 
pla< 


THE    FALI.S    AT    "   IIIT SUNRISE  —  SUNSET.      '^9 

a  rainbow  at  niglit     'in    i>e  »■  m  witli  distin^'t   -S8 
At  all  events,  the  L  mar  Jio,¥  is  peculiar  to  ^ui^ 
place. 

a)ieb  of  fl)e  l^[\$  nl   Hlgi}f. 

An  evening  view  has  a  very  dilferent  eiiect  upon 
the  mind  of  the  beholder,  than  when  seen  in  the 
daytime.  The  moon-beams  playing  upon  the  agi- 
tated waters ;  the  spray,  like  the  smoke  of  a  volcano, 
rising  into  the  sky;  the  endless  roar  of  the  cataract, 
mingled  with  the  heart's  deepest  impressions,  give 
such  an  indescribable  sublimity  and  grandeur,  that 
language  is  but  a  poor  vehicle  to  convey  the  impres- 
sions we  feel. 

illeb  of  fl)e  Tf\\i$  ^i  §i(i]lM3C. 

This  view  is  thought,  by  thousands,  to  be  per- 
fectly unsurpassed;  and  has  no  rival  in  grandeur, 
sublimity,  and  interest.  Every  point  of  time,  how- 
ever, is  different,  and  has  its  different  effect  uj)on  the 
beholder. 

illelv  of  fl)e  T^IU  ^i  §i|i?3ef. 

When  the  sim  has  rolled  onward  in  his  chariot 
of  fire,  and  thrown  his  last  rays  upon  Niagara,  bid- 
ding adieu,  for  the  night,  to  the  grandeur  of  the 
scene  that  so  much  in  ])0^^■(!r  resembles  himself,  the 
view  is  perfectly  indescribable. 


so 


EVERY    MAX    III3    OWN    GUIDE. 


?ioiil'  of  ll|e  Iiilig. 

•  This  depends  mucli  upon  tke  >vind,  and  the  state 
of  the  atmospLere.  yoniotinies,  every  door  and 
window,  the  least  ajar,  for  a  mile  in  circiiniferenco, 
will  tremble  —  caused  by  the  concussion  of  the  air ; 
and  the  roar  may  be  heai'd  from  fifteen  to  twenty-livo 
miles.  At  other  times  our  citizens  would  scarcely 
know  that  there  were  falls  in  the  iieiu'hborhood. 
*'  In  a  few  instances,"  says  Mr.  Hooker,  the  oldest 
guide  to  the  Falls,  "they  have  be^'n  heard  at  To- 
ronto, a  distance  of  forty-four  miles." 

T\\'$i  Ih)&l*ij^aiOi]$  of  ^f^qiigcl^^. 

At  first  sight,  strangers  are  sometimes  disap- 
pointed ;  either  their  expectations  have  been  raised 
too  high,  or  the  sublimity,  grandeur,  and  magnifi- 
cence of  the  scene  far  surpasses  every  thing  they 
could  possibly^have  anticipated. 

The  second  view  is  fj-equently  more  impressive 
than  the  first.  The  longer  the  visitor  tarries,  the 
more  he  enjoys  and  appreciates;  the  impression  is 
indelibly  enstamped  upon  liis  memory,  and  for 
years  infixed  there,  as  Avith  the  imprint  of  a  sun- 
beam. 

The  Falls,  it  is  true,  when  seen  from  above,  do 
not  appear  more  than  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high ;  but 
let  the  visitor  go  below,  if  he  would  get  a  correct 
impression    of    this    stupendous   work.       Beauty, 


RISK    AND    FALL    OF   THE    RIVER. 


31 


e 
d 


grandeur,  and  awful  sublimit}-,  cnstamp  upon  his 
heart,  those  emotions  he  never  can  express. 

^l$c>  of  l[)e  I^IbeK 

Those  causes  y\'hkh  swell  other  nvei*s,  have  no 
effect  upon  this.  It  never  rises  unless  the  wind  has 
been  blowing  down  Lake  Erie  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion. S.  Ware,  Esq.,  who  has  kept  the  ferry  for 
seventeen  years,  says,  "  one  foot  on  the  top  of  the 
Falls,  will,  by  actual  mcjisurement,  raise  it  seventeen 
and  a  half  feet  below."  This  is  attributable  to  the 
river  being  pent  up  in  a  very  narrow  pass  at  the 
Whirlpool,  and  cannot  find  its  way  out  as  fast  as  it 
accumulates  above. 

Iqll  of  il)e  ^Ibcl'. 

From  Lake  Lrie  to  Lake  Ontario,  (36  miles,)  339 
feet;  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  head  of  Goat  Island, 
(22  miles,)  25  feet;  from  the  head  of  Goat  Island 
to  the  main  fall,  (luJf  a  mile,)  50  feet;  perpendicu- 
lar height  of  the  American  Fall,  164  feet;  on  the 
Canada  side,  158  feet;  from  the  Falls  to  the  Whirl- 
pool, (2^  miles,)  64  feet;  from  the  Whirlpool  to 
Lake  Ontario,  (11  miles,)  25  feet.  Total  in  36 
miles  between  the  two  lakes,  339  feet    ' 


82 


EVERY   MAN   niS    OWN    GUIDE. 


i^libe. 

In  some  instances  they  do  —  but  generally  are 
in  a  wounded,  mutilated  state.     On  the  morning  of 

•  the  10th  September,  1841,  more  than  four  hundred 
ducks  were  picked  up,  dead,  having  gone  over  the 
night  previous. 

If  fish  should  take  a  perpendicular  direction,  they 
might  survive.  But  if  they  should  strike  flatwise, 
it  would,  in  our  opinion,  kill  them  as  suddenly  as 
if  they  fell  on  a  rock. 

The  usual  crossing  place  is  2  1-2  miles  above  the 
Falls;  though  sail-boats  and  canoes,  when  the 
wind  is  blowing  up  the  river,  have  crossed  much 
nearer. 

It  is  thought  by  many,  who  have  visited  the 
Falls  at  this  season,  that  it  far  surpasses  that  of 
summer.  The  icicles,  in  the  shape  of  inverted 
cones,  hanging  from  the  high  banks,  the  dazzling 
splendor  of  an  eti'ulgent  sun  darting  his  fiery  beams 
upon  them ;  the  frozen  spray,  clothing  the  trees  in 
its  silvery  robe ;  the  roar  of  the  ice,  as  it  rushes  on- 

•  "Ward  to  try  the  fearful  leap ;  the  ceaseless  thundei 


1)3 


)f 


THE  AMERICAN  AND  HORSE-SHOE  FALLS, 

FROM  THE  CANADA  SIDE. 
See  Page  42. 


THE    FIRST   MAN    WHO    SAW   THE    FALLS. 


33 


of  the  cataract,  the  bow  of  promise,  smiling  se- 
renely upon  the  angry  Hood;  the  enchained  river 
within  its  icy  embrace,  struggling  like  some  mon- 
ster of  the  deep  to  be  free,  all  combine  to  render 
the  scene  awfully  grand  and  terrific.  No  language 
is  adequate  to  give  a  correct  impression;  it  must  be 
seen  before  it  can  be  appreciated. 

I(](j  Ili^^f  ^VFqi)  l\5!)o  ?qiii  ll]e  Iqlls. 

The  first  vy^hite  man  who  saw  the  Falls,  as  far  as 
we  have  any  authentic  record,  was  Father  Henne- 
pin, Jesuit  missionary,  sent  out  from  the  French 
among  the  Indians,  as  early  as  the  year  IGVS,  174 
years  since.  Ills  descriptions  were  visionary,  and  ex- 
ceedingly exaggerated.  He  thought  the  Falls  si-x  or 
seven  hundred  feet  high,  and  that  four  persons  could 
walk  abreast  under  the  sheet  of  water,  without  any 
other  inconvenience  than  a  slight  s|)rinkling  from 
the  spray.  But  w^e  would  not  attribute  this  wild  and 
fanciful  description,  to  a  want  of  candor,  or  an  in- 
tention to  deceive.  The  fact  probably  was,  he  had 
no  moans  of  measuring  its  height,  and  undoubt- 
edly got  his  account  from  the  Indians,  which  very 
likely  would  be  incorrect. 

The  Indians,  it  is  said  in  Judge  De  Veaux's  works, 

have  a  tradiiiou  that  two  human  beings,  yearly,  will 
3* 


34 


EVERr   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


be  sacrificed  to  the  Great  Spirit  of  these  Waters. 
Whether  any  reliance  can  be  placed  upon  the  tra- 
dition of  the  Indians  or  not,  it  is  nevertheless  true,* 
that  almost  every  year  has  proved  fatal  to  some  one. 
A  few  instances,  only,  can  be  mentioned.  John 
York,  who  is  supposed  to  have  gone  over  the  Falls, 
as  pieces  of  his  boat,  and  part  of  the  loading  were 
picked  up  below,  28th  Nov.  1841.  William  Ken- 
nedy was  in  the  boat  with  him,  and  found  dead-  on 
Grass  Island,  just  above  the  Raoids, 

Dr.  Hungerford,  of  West  Troy,  was  killed  by  a 
rock  falling  upon  him,  between  Biddle  Stairs  and 
the  Cave  of  the  Winds.     May  27,  1839. 

J.  H.  Thompson,  of  Philadelphia,  was  washed  off 
of  a  rock  below  the  Falls,  under  the  great  sheet  of 
water,  by  leaving  the  guide  and  venturing  too  far 
upon  places  of  danger.     August  16,  1844. 

Miss  Martha  K.  Rugg,  from  Lancaster,  near  Bos- 
ton, Mass.,  while  picking  a  flower,  fell  over  the  bank, 
just  below  Barnett's  Museum,  (Canada  side,)  one 
hundred  and  fifteen  feet  August  23,  1844.  She 
lived  about  three  hours. 

Charles  Smart,  from  Philadelphia,  fell  about  forty 
feet  from  a  rock  in  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  Aug. 
31,1846.     Killed  instantly. 

John  Murphy,  aged  fourteen  years,  son   of  a 


CASUALTIES. 


35 


e. 
re 


widow  lady,  of  our  village,  attempting  to  cross  the 
river  in  a  canoe,  about  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  was 
drawn  into  the  current  and  went  over.  His  body 
has  never  been  found.    June  13,  1847. 

A  son  of  Mr.  White,  aged  five  years,  and  his  sis- 
ter about  one  year  and  a  half  older,  were  playing 
in  a  canoe ;  it  floated  out  into  the  stream ;  the  ag- 
onized mother  beheld  this  heart-rending  scene  — 
she  rushed  into  the  river  nearly  up  to  her  neck  — 
rescued  the  girl,  the  boy  went  over.  He  was  last 
seen  sitting  in  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  holding  on 
to  each  side  with  his  hands.  July  9,  1848.  His 
body  has  never  been  found. 

A  gentleman  from  Buffalo,  supposed  to  be  on  an 
excursion  of  shooting  ducks;  his  boat  was  drawn 
into  the  rapids  above  the  Grist  Mill  —  seen  by  sev- 
eral of  our  citizens  to  pass  under  the  Bridge  — 
heard  to  exclaim, "  can  I  be  saved."  *  His  boat,  with 
the  velocity  of  lightning,  passed  on,  dashed  against 
a  rock  nearly  opposite  the  Chair  Factory,  he  was 
thrown  out  —  went  over  feet  foremost,  near  the 
American  shore.  August  25,  1848.  He  has  never 
been  found. 

A  Mrs.  Miller  cut  her  shawl  in  pieces,  tied  them 
together,  hung  it  over  the  Bridge  leading  to  Goat 
Island,  intending  doubtless  to  impress  the  belief  that 
she  had  let  herself  down  into  the  angry  flood,  and 
had  gone  over  the  Falls.     Very  few  of  our  citizens 


36 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


believed  it,  as  there  was  too  mucli  pains  taken,  for 
the  purpose  of  committing  suicide ;  it  was  all  a  farce, 
as  she  was  heard  from  at  Syracuse  and  other  places, 
a  few  davs  after.  Some  love  affair  occasioned  this 
wild  freak.  Her  little  children  were  very  kindly 
taken  care  of  by  Hon.  A.  Porter,  until  her  friends 
at  Detroit  could  be  informed  of  the  occurrence,  and 
they  removed  to  their  home.  Her  father,  a  very 
respectable  lawyer,  died  soon  afterward,  it  was 
thought  of  a  broken  heart. 

A  gentleman  from  Troy,  N.  Y.,  in  the  winter  of 
1852,  while  passing  over  the  Bridge  to  the  Tower, 
fell  into  the  river,  was  instantly  carried  to  the  verge 
of  the  precipice,  and  lodgf.d  between  two  rocks. 
Mr.  Bruster  I .  Davis  rescued  him,  by  throwing  some 
lines  in  the  direction ;  he  had  just  sufficient  strength 
left  to  tie  them  around  his  body,  and  they  drew  him 
to  the  Bridge,  whence  he  was  taken  to  the  Falls 
Hotel.  He  remained  speechless  for  several  houi-s, 
but  finally  recovered  and  returned  to  his  home. 

There  are  not  as  many  accidents  in  proportion  to 
the  number  who  visit  the  Falls,  as  among  our  citi 
zens.  Strangers  are  generally  more  careful  and 
timid,  cautious  how  they  approach  places  of  appa- 
rent or  real  danger,  until  satisfied  of  their  perfect 
safety.     Some  have  a  more  fool-hardy  adventure  in 


ACCIDENTS   TO    STRANGERS. 


37 


3 


their  constitutions ;  will  pass  into  crags  and  rocks, 
where  human  beings  never  ought  to  go.  This  is 
not  only  dangerous,  but  it  is  perfectly  uncalled  for,  as 
all  the  wildness  of  this  terrific  scene  can  be  viewed 
without  running  the  least  risk. 

It  has  frequently  been  remarked  to  the  author, 
both  by  ladies  and  gentlemen,  while  standing  upon 
some  giddy  point,  say  an  isolated  rock,  on  the  west 
side  of  Prospect  Tower,  on  the  very  brink  of  the 
Falls,  "  I  have  a  great  mind,"  say  they,  "  to  give  a 
jump;  do  you  think  it  would  hurt  me."  The  rea- 
son of  this  disposition  doubtless  is,  they  are  not 
accustomed  to  stand  upon  such  afrightfid  eminence. 
There  is,  unquestionably,  a  determination  of  blood 
to  the  brain,  which  produces  a  partial  derangement. 
Some  are  of  that  nervous  temperament,  constitu- 
tionally formed,  that  they  become  dizzy  in  looking 
down  from  almost  any  height,  though  at  other 
times  they  might  face  the  cannon's  mouth,  and 
hear  it  thunder,  without  moving  a  muscle,  yet  here 
they  are  afraid. 

These  remarks  are  not  made  to  alarm,  or  in  the 
least  to  detract  from  the  interest  of  the  stranger's 
visit,  but  to  caution.  The  author,  until  recently,  for 
many  years  acted  as  a  Guide ;  he  will  relate  an  inci- 
dent, as  exemplifying  the  above  remarks :  a  young 
lady  was  standing  upon  Table  Rock,  on  the  very 
verge  of  the  precipice,  the  wind  at  the  time  blowing 


88 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


strong  from  the  Canada  shore;  she  appeased 
amazed,  bewildered,  and  lost  amid  this  overwhelm- 
ing, enchanting  scene.  Madam,  said  I,  are  you  not 
unnecessarily  exposing  yourself?  While  laying  my 
hand  slightly  upon  her  shoulder.  Oh !  she  replied 
with  a  smile,  I  could  jump  off  here,  and  sail  away 
like  a  balloon,  without  injury;  and  with  much  en- 
treaty, she  was  prevailed  upon  at  length  to  leave 
this  dangerous  spot.  She  observed  afterward  to 
her  mother,  who  very  pleasantly  reprimanded  her 
for  this  daring  freak,  I  did  not  feel  the  least  fear, 
or  dread,  and  was  not  aware  that  I  was  in  any  dan- 
ger ;  "  I  thought  I  could  fly."  In  many  other  in- 
stances, I  have  observed  in  some  strangers  the  san>e 
disposition ;  regardless  of  fear  or  danger,  or  the  ad- 
vice of  friends  they  often  feel  disposed,  they  say,  to 
try  the  fearful  leap ;  w^e  know  these  are  facts,  and 
leave  the  subject  for  writers  on  mental  philosophy 
to  enlarge  upon,  and  assign  the  cause. 

thousands,  in  the  summer  season,  when  the 
weather  is  fair,  promenade  through  the  Island  at 
night  —  it  is  a  delightsome  treat.  ^The  carriage-road 
is  fine,  the  dark  forest,  in  all  its  native  grandeur,  is 
around  them,  not  a  breath  moves  the  surroundinir 
foliage,  the  moon  pouring  a  flood  of  mellow  lighu 
through  the  openings  of  the  trees,  the  silence  of 


(lea 

roa 

eur 

to 

api 


LUNAR    BOW. 


89 


death  is  only  interrupted  by  Niagara's  ceaseless 
roar,  filling  the  mind  with  emotions  of  awe,  grand- 
eur, and  sublimity,  which  it  is  perfectly  impossible 
to  describe.  It  must  be  viewed  before  it  can  be 
appreciated. 

5  Ii}e  |lip]i|h  Bob. 

Can  only  be  seen  about  once  a  month,  or  when 
the  moon  is  within  two  or  three  days  previous  or 
after  its  full.     The   reason   is,   there   is  not  light 
enough  to  form  the  Bow.     The  best  points  to  view 
this  grand  spectacle  are,  at  the  foot  of  Goat  Island, 
on  Luna  Island,  and  Prospect  Tower.    If  the  sky  is 
'clear,  the  wind  right,  and  the  atmosphere  favorable, 
an  entire  arch  can  be  seen.     The  author  has  fre- 
quently seen  a  whole  arch,  with  three  colors  very 
distinct,  and  w^e  are  inclined  to  believe,  as  far  as  we 
can  learn  from  travelers,  this  is  the  only  place  on 
the  globe,  where  a  rainbow  at  night,  in  the  form 
of  an  arch,  can  be  seen  at  all.     It  is  indescribably 
gr:*nd,  worthy  the  attention  of  the  tourist,  and  will 
amply  pay  him  for  a  trip  to  the  Island,  to  behold. 
"  Thou  hast  told  me  right,"  said  a  party  of  Qua- 
kers, from  Philadelphia,  to  the  author,  "  this  sight 
alone,  is  sufficient  to  pay  us  for  a  journey  to  the 
Falls."     The  mind  takes  a  wild  and  sublime  range, 
but  its  emotions  cannot  be  expressed. 


CHAPTER  II. 

2i  Joiji*  fo  £mh  ^i)  ifJ^D  of  fl]e  leMrj;. 

If  the  visitor  is  at  the  Cataract  House,  take  the 
first  left  hand  street^  then  turn  to  the  right  at  the  old 
Curiosity  Shop.  If  at  the  Falls  Hotel,  pass  the  Buf- 
falo and  Niagara  Falls  railroad  depot,  incline  to  the 
ricjlit.  If  at  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel  or  the  Niagara 
House,  pass  up  M^ihi  street,  pjiss  the  depot  as  above, 
and  three  or  four  minutes  walk  brings  you  through 
a  pleasant  grove  to  the  Ferry. 

The  Ferry  House  is  within  eight  rods  of  tho 
American  Fall.  Cars  lead  dow^n  the  bank  to  the 
water's  edge,  on  an  inclined  plane  of  thirty-one  de- 
grees, worked  by  water-power.  Distance,  twe^ity- 
two  and  a  half  rods,  or  tw^o  hundred  and  ni/.ety 
steps.  The  usual  time  in  descending  and  crossing 
the  river  to  the  Canada  shore,  is  about  ten  miLu.tes, 
"This  Ferry,"  says  Judge  Porter,  the  propiietor, 
"has  been  in  operation  more  tlian  forty  years;  luA 
during  all  that  time  not  a  single  life  has  been  ioi^tj 
or  a  serious  accident  occurred." 

And  this,  perhaps,  is  more  than  ciin  be  said  of 


FERRY AMERICAN   SIDE. 


41 


any  other  ferry  in  the  United  States.  The  boats 
which  ply  back  and  forth  ahnost  every  iiiouient  in 
the  day,  when  seen  from  the  high  bank,  ai)pear,  a.s 
they  dance  upon  the  agitated  waves,  exceedingly 
diminutive  and  insecure;  yet  they  will  safely  carry 
thirty  pei-sons.  At  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  or  where 
the  cars  stop,  if  there  is  little  or  no  wind,  or  if  it  is 
blowing  up  the  river,  let  him  turn  short  round  to 
the  left.  He  can  approach  within  a  few  feet  of  tho 
American  Fall,  without  inconvenience  fiom  the 
spray.  It  is,  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  one  of  the 
most  grand  and  sublime  views  on  the  American 
side.  At  no  other  point  do  we  get  as  correct  an 
impression  as  to  the  height  of  the  American  Fall. 
The  reason  is,  we  are  below,  nearer  the  falling  sheet, 
and  are  looking  up.  This  remark  holds  good  every- 
where; if  we  would  get  a  correct  idea  of  heights, 
we  must  be  below  and  look  up. —  Questions  by  the 
visitor  while  crossing  the  river:  How  high  is  the 
American  Fall?  A.  One  hundred  and  sixty -four 
feet,  perpendicular.  Q.  Do  they  go  under  that  fall  ? 
A.  Never ;  an  attempt  was  made  a  f«w  years  since, 
but  it  was  abandoned  as  a  hopeless  effort.  Q.  How 
deep  is  the  river  ?  A.  In  the  center  it  averages 
two  hundred  fifty  feet,  for  a  mile  up  and  dov,n. 
Q.  What  is  the  cause  of  this  dark,  green  color? 
A.  This  has  never  been  satisftictorily  explaine^l; 
some  think  it  is  in  the  fohage,  but  this  must  be  a 


I    1 


42 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


mistake ;  the  same  ajipearance  is  seen  in  tlio  \^•illter 
as  well  as  iu  the  suiiiuier.  The  most  i)i'ol)able  rea- 
son appears  to  the  writer  to  be  its  depth.  We 
would  willingly  exchange  this  opinion  for  a  better, 
whenever  it  can  be  made  to  appear  it  is  erroneous. 
Charges  for  crossing  the  ferry,  including  the  cars, 
is  eighteen  and  three-quailers  cents. 

Here  the  visitor  will  be  annoyed  by  all  that  cease- 
less jargon  of  runners  and  solicitors,  so  usual  in  all 
the  great  thoroughfares  of  this  country.  There  is  a 
good  carriage-road  up  the  bank,  and  if  the  visitor 
feels  disposed,  he  can  walk  at  his  leisure,  and  thus 
have  more  time  to  contemplate  and  a})preciate  this 
wonderful  scene.  If  he  prefers  riding,  he  can  get  a 
good  carriage,  with  careful  drivers,  to  take  him  to 
Table  Rock,  generally  for  t\\elve  and  a  half  cents. 
It  would  be  advisable  to  make  a  baigain  before  you 
stai-t,  as  the  drivel's  will  sometimes  tell  you  they  will 
carry  you  for  a  shilling,  meaning  Canada  currenc}^ 
One  shilling  of  that  money  is  twenty-two  cents  on 
this  side.  Price  of  carriages  by  the  hour,  for  the 
party,  on  that  side,  is  usually  seventy-five  cents. 

This  is  a  large  hotel  on  the  Canada  side,  at  the 
fX)p  of  the  hill,  as  you  descend  the  bank.     Great 


Ml'SEUM. 


43 


li\ 


expense  by  tlie  eiitoqirisino-  propiii'tor  lias  recently 
beeu  laid  out  in  additions  to  the  bniiding,  pleasme- 
garden,  and  residences  lor  piivate  faniilit's.  It  cer- 
tainly is  an  excellent  location,  coniniandin<^  a  view 
of  the  American  and  Horse  Shoe  Fall.  J'^ighty 
rods  below,  on  the  edge  of  the  bank,  is  Victoria 
Point.  Directly  opp<^site  the  Clifton  House,  the 
other  side  of  the  street,  is  Mr.  Holloway's,  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  artists  in  this  country.  lie  spends 
his  time  in  painting  views  of  the  Falls.  Several 
small  shops  on  the  road-side  where  Indian  work  and 
refreshments  are  sold. 

I  i)  e  ?if  i|  3  e  11  h) 

Is  near  Table  Rock.  The  galleries  are  arranged 
so  as  to  represent  an  entii'e  forest  scene,  and  con- 
tain upward  of  ten  thousand  interesting  specimens. 
Birds,  Amimals,  Fish,  Minerals,  &c.,  a  great  vari- 
ety of  which  were  collected  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity. Charge  for  admittance,  is  25  cents.  This 
includes  the  Camera  Obscura,  Buffaloes,  tfcc.  About 
twenty  rods  below  the  Museum,  is  the  point  where 
Miss  Martha  K.  Rugg  fell  over  the  bank,  one  hiin-^ 
dred  and  fifty  feet  perpendicular.  (See  Casualties.) 
The  next  grand,  and  all  absorbing  point  of  interest, 
is  Table  Rock. 


r   t 


44 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


,ifc 


i .'. 


Is  on  the  Canada  side,  connected  witli  the  great 
Horse  Shoe  Falls,  and  the  terminus  of  the  carriage- 
road  in  this  direction.  It  was  formerly  about  fifteen 
rods  long,  and  three  wide,  and  projects  over  the 
precipice  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  Thousands  of 
the  most  timid  have  stood  upon  this  giddy  emi- 
nence with  perfect  safety,  and  gazed  upon  the  re- 
splendent grandeur  of  this  enchanting,  bewildering 
scene.  While  contemplating  it,  the  mind  is  lost, 
and  sinks  back  upon  itself,  amid  the  immensity  of 
God's  works.  And  we  hazard  not  too  much  in  say- 
ing, there  is  nothing  on  the  globe  that  compares 
with  this  view,  in  point  of  sublimity  and  interest. 
"  I  have,"  said  a  sea  captain  to  the  writer,  who  had 
followed  the  ocean  for  forty  years,  "  seen  the  Mael- 
strom, the  Burning  Mountains,  and  all  the  wonders 
of  the  globe,  but  this  is  the  most  sublimely  inter- 
esting of  all."  Two  large  portions  of  Table  Rock 
have  Mien  within  a  few  years,  but  have  detracted 
but  little  from  this  grand  view.  Directly  in  rear, 
is  the  Prospect  House,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a 
Camera  Obscura,  and  a  splendid  view  of  the  Horse 
Shoe,  and  the  Rapids.  The  charge  for  seeing  the 
Camera,  is  12  1-2  cents. 

Tho  emotions  excited  while  passing  under  the 


grea 

utab 

age, 

deal 

less 

incrc 

.  and 

the 


m ! 


COURAGE    OF    LADIES. 


45 


reat 

Jen 
the 
of 


great  sheet,  are  exceedingly  variable.  It  is  attrib- 
utable, perhaps,  to  our  state  of  health,  physical  cour- 
age, or  nervous  temperament.  Some  have  a  good 
deal  of  adventure  in  their  constitutions  —  bold,  fcir- 
less  and  determined :  as  the  interest  of  the  scene 
increases,  difficulties  vanish.  Others  are  more  timid 
and  fearful,  but  equally  resolute.  And  as  far  as 
the  writer  can  judge  from  the  countenances  and  ex- 
pressions of  those  who  have  accompanied  him,  the 
feehngs  that  involuntarily  arise,  are  those  of  relig- 
ious awe.  We  may  have  been  schooled  in  infidelity, 
and  taught  to  believe  there  is  no  God;  but  during 
our  stay  at  the  Falls,  and  especially  under  them, 
let  the  individual  be  an  Atheist,  if  he  can.  (Im- 
possible.) On  returning,  about  fifty  feet  from  the 
bottom  of  the  stairs,  let  the  visitor  paus0  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  look  up.  "  I  did  not,"  said  a  lady  to  the 
author,  in  company  with  her  husband,  from  South 
Carolina,  "  feel  the  least  agitated  while  under  the 
falling  flood;  but  at  this  point  I  trembled;  not  from 
any  real  or  a})parent  danger;  but  my  nerves,  for  a 
moment,  seemed  to  give  way."  She  soon  regained 
her  composure.  "  That  scene,"  continued  she,  "  is 
"worth  a  journey  across  the  globe." 

Goiii-^ge  of  J.^ih$, 

"  Do  ladies  ever  go  under  the  Falls  ?  "  is  a  ques- 
tion frequently  proposed.     Certainly,  thousands  — 


I    ii 


46 


EVERVr    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


and  their  numbers  are  nearly  equal  to  those  of  the 
gentlemen,  and  their  courage  often  surpasses  them. 
No  accident  has  ever  occurred,  unless  from  careiess- 
Tjcss,  or  the  uncalled-for  adventure  of  some  thought- 
less traveler,  in  rushing  out  upon  places  where  hu- 
man beings  never  ought  to  go.  There  is  an  iron 
driven  into  the  side  of  the  rock,  at  the  termination 
of  the  path.  Visitors  usually  lay  their  hands  upon 
this  iron.  At  this  point  you  can  see  all  that  can  be 
seen,  with  perfect  safety.  Two  or  three  feet  beyond 
tliis,  your  path  is  intercepted  by  a  perpendicular 
rock,  which  rises  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  from 
the  angry  flood  below.  This  is  called  "  Tei'mination 
Rock."  As  much  as  to  say^  "  you  can  approach 
me,  with  safety;  but,  beyond, you  cannot  go  —  here 
let  thy  proud  steps  be  stayed."  Some  clamber 
down  this  rock  to  the  water's  edge;  but  this  is  in* 
called-for,  as  all  the  wildness  of  this  magnifici  ; 
place  is  seen  without  running  the  least  i-isk. 

If  the  visitor  lias  time,  and  feels  disposed,  the 
next  object  of  interest  is  the  Burnino:  Sprino*  —  a 
good  carriage-road,  and  a  delightful  ride. 

This  Spring  is  situated  two  miles  above  the  Falls, 
on  the  Canada  side;  near  the  water's  edge.  It  is 
the  carbonated  sulphuretted  hvdroiren  a'^is,  tint 
burns.     Touched  with  a  match  it  o-ives  out  a  brilliant 


CHIPPEWA LUNDY  S    LANE. 


47 


flame  rising  two  or  three  feet  liigli.  Many  are 
very  iniicli  interested,  and  to  those  who  liave  never 
seen  any  thing  of  the  kind,  it  is  an  object  of  a  good 
deal  of  interest.     Charges,  12  1-2  cents. 

The  village  of  Chippewa  is  on  the  British  side, 
two  and  a  half  miles  above  the  Falls.     A  few  sol- 


h 


been 


iiers'*"  nave  been  stationed  here  since  the  Patriot 
"VVar  of  '37  — '38.  Landino-  of  the  British  steamer 
Emeiald,  from  ButTalo,  N.  Y.  The  terminus  of 
the  railroad  from  Queenston,  connected  with  the 
British  and  American  steamers  for  Toronto,  Kings- 
ton, Montreal,  and  Quebec.  A  steamer  plies  daily 
from  Chippewa  to  Buffalo. 

Lundy's  Lane,  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the 
Falls,  on  the  Canada  side.  The  battle,  in  its  hot- 
test fury,  was  fought  principally  in  the  night,  with 
the  bayonet;  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter  commanding  the 
volunteers  —  Generals  Brown  and  Scott  w(3§nded, 
llyal  and  Drummond,  (British  generals,)  wounded 
and  taken  prisoners.  This,  it  is  said,  was  the  se- 
verest battle  ever  fuuo-ht  on  this  continent.  British 
had,  in  killed  and  wounded,  877.     Americans,  860. 

*  They  Lave  since  been  removed  to  Toronto,  C.  W 


I    ii 


■ 


48  EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

It  was  a  drawn  game  —  both  parties  claiiriing  the 
victory.     July  25,  1814. 

The  above  was  taken  from  General  Brown's  ofTi- 
cial  report  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  For  a  descrip- 
tion of  Drummondville,  where  this  battle  was  fought, 
see  large  map  by  the  author,  accompanying  this 
work.  This  is  sometimes  blended  with  the  Chip- 
pewa battle,  but  it  is  a  mistake;  Chippewa  battle 
was  fought  near  the  Burning  Spring.  July  5, 
1814. 

If  the  visitor  ascends  to  the  top  of  a  hi^li  Pa- 
goda, on  the  battle-ground,  he  gets  an  excellent 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Charges  are 
from  12  1-2  to  25  cents.  The  visitor  can  return  to 
the  Clifton  House,  and  cross  at  the  Ferry.  Charge 
for  crossing  to  the  American  shore,  is  12  1-2  cents; 
if  he  rides  up  on  the  Cars,  6  1-4  cents  more;  or, 
he  can  continue  his  route  to  the  Suspension  Bridge, 
cross,  and  return  to  his  Hotel  on  this  side.  (See 
Chapter  3.) 

From  the  water's  edge,  to  the  Clifton  House, 106  rods. 

From  the  Crifton  House  to  Table  Rock, 2!20    ** 

From  Table  Rock  to  Lundy's  Lane  Battle- 

Ground, 11^  miles; 

To  the  Burning  Spring, 2j^'      ** 

To  Chippewa, 3         ** 


FALL    OF   TABLE    ROCK.  49 

To  tlie  Whirlpool, 4}{  miles. 

To  Brock's  Monument, 1}^      •* 

Number  of  Spiral  Steps  near  Table  Rock, 87 

lijll  of  Iqble  l^oclf. 

On  the  26th  of  June,  1850,  our  citizens  were 
startled  with  the  report,  that  Table  Rock  had  fallen. 
Many  of  us  instantly  repaired  to  the  place,  to  wit- 
ness, for  ourselves,  an  event  we  had  long  expected. 
"What  a  chasm !     What  a  tremendous  crash !     The 
rocks  heaved,  the  earth  trembled  for  a  moment,  as 
if  collecting  her  mighty  energies  to  heave  from  her 
bosom  this  cumbersome  load,  and  hurl  it,  in  spite 
of  all  resisting  power,  into  the  dark,  yawning  abyss 
below,  which,  like  an  enraged  monster  of  the  deep, 
devoured  all  at  once,  and  whose  voracious  jaws  are 
widely  distended  for  another  meal.     Nearly  half 
an'  acre,  200  feet   long,  60  wide,  and  100  thick, 
fell  into  the  river,  and  almost  every  particle  disap- 
peared  from  sight.     The  noise  produced   by  this 
fallen  rock,  was  something  like  the  rumbling  of  an 
earthquake.      It  was  heard  four  or  five  miles  on 
each  side  of   the  river.     There  was  some  fifteen 
minutes  pause,  the  earth  was  again  in  motion,  and 
then   another   crash.     The   ponderous  load   rolled 
with  the  velocity  of  lightning,  and  sunk  far  down 
into  the  deep  below.     Fortunately,  no  lives  were 
lost,  though  some  forty  or  fifty  persons  were  stand- 
ing upon  the  rock  but  a  few  moments  before.     A 
6 


I    1 


60 


EVERY    MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


blind  man,  wlio  sells  views  of  different  cities  and 
the  Falls,  felt  the  rock  begin  to  move,  and  succeeded 
in  reachiiio-a  place  of  satety,  just  in  time  to  escape 
this  lieadlonjr  plunge. 

An  omnibus  was  placed  upon  the  rock  for  th<^ 
purpose  of  washing  it —  two  persons  were  inside  — 
they  jumped  for  life,  and  weie  saved.     The  horses 
were  taken  off  to  feed.     It  went  over,  and  not  a 
fragment  was  ever  seen.     A  gentleman  and  lady 
were  below;  several  tons  fell  in  the  path,  directly 
before  them ;  they  hastened  to  the  top  of  the  bank, 
and  the  whole  went  off  at  once.     In  1818,  a  por- 
tion of  Table  Rock  fell.     In  1828,  a  large  mass  fell 
from  the  center  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls.     Another 
mass  fell,  connected  with  Table  Rock,  and  extend- 
ing under  the  sheet  of  water  toward  the  point  of 
the  Horse  Shoe,  about  150  feet  long,  50  wide,  and 
100  deep,  carrying  with  it  a  canal  boat,  that  had 
lain  on  the  verge  of  tlie  Horse  Shoe,  for  months. 
Thus  nature,  not  satisfied  with  what  she  had  done, 
■   moved  on,  silently  but  triumphantly,  to  destroy  her 
own  works.     But  the  natural  cause,  the  modus  ope- 
randi  of  these  rocks  falling,  is  the  shale  and  marl 
below.     These,  by  the  action  of  .he  spray,  frost,  and 
the   atmosphere,  wear  fastest  at  the  bottom;   and 
when  they  project  sufficiently  far  to  throw  them  be- 
yond the  perpendicular  lin*^  of  de.^cent,  they  crack 
and  fall  of  their  own  weicjht.     Hundreds  of  instances 


A    FISSURE    IN    TABLE    ROCK. 


51 


I    I 


tliP 


•ses 


about  the  Falls,  strikingly  exemplify  these  remarks. 
There  is  one  on  the  American  Fall,  near  the  shore. 
Another  is  ^-een  fi-om  Luna  Island,  extending  in  a 
fissure  toward  the  center  of  the  Anierican  Fall ;  and 
a  third  is  noticed  a  few  rods  from  the  Tower  toward 
the  center  of  Horse  Shoe. 

This  commences  near  the  Stairs,  leading  back 
from  the  edge  about  three  or  four  rods^  an?l  varying 
in  width  from  three  to  fifteen  inches.  It  is  about 
175  feet  long,  and  80  deep,  and  is  seen  and  pointed 
out  by  almost  every  traveler  who  visited  Table 
Rock.  That  portion  which  remains  poises,  appa- 
rently, upon  a  mere  point,  and  is  as  destined  to  fall, 
as  these  waters  are  to  roll,  and  it  may  go  before 
night;  but  how  long  it  will  last,  no  mortal,  this  side 
of  the  other  world,  can  tell.  The  citizens  on  that 
side  have  often  threatened  to  put  a  blast  into  this 
crevice,  and  blow  the  whole  off  togotlier,  which 
might  easily  be  done.  The  visitor  will  be  urgently 
importuned  to  go  under  the  sheet  of  water  by  I'un- 
ners  who  are  employed  for  the  purpose,  and  if  he 
wishes  to  do  so  he  will  judge  of  its  safety,  for  him- 
self, after  taking  the  above  facts  into  consideration. 
Dresses  and  a  guide  will  be  furnished  at  either  of 
the  Houses,  at  an  expense  generally  of  50  cents. 
There  are  not  as  many  who  go  under  the  sheet  of 


62 


EVERY    MAN    ITIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


h: 


r. 


water  since,  as  before  the  rock  fell.  My  own  0[)in- 
ion  is,  it  is  flot  safe.  Formerly,  when  the  \vriter 
acted  as  a  guide,  lie  had  accompanied  parties  un- 
der the  fallino:  flood  more  than  a  hundred  times  at 
different  periods;  but  no  inducement  could  prevail 
upon  him  to  go  there  now,  though  pei'haps  he  has 
as  much  nerve  as  most  men,  yet  in  his  opinion  the 
risk  is  too  great,  to  effect  so  little. .  It  is  true  tliero 
is  an  indescribable  something  in  some  persons,  per- 
haps the  name  of  being  under  Niagara,  which  gives 
this  impulsive  desire;  but  when  the  novelty  has 
passed,  this  anxiety  has  passed  with  it,  and  the 
writer  has  never  known  the  person  who  wished  to 
return  there  the  second  time.  There  may  be  excep- 
tions, but  they  have  not  come  to  his  knowledge. 

While  on  the  subject  of  falling  rocks,  it  may  be 
proper  to  I'emark,  that  rocks  which  lay  so  thick  be 
low  the  American  Fall,  have  unquestionably  all 
rolled,  at  some  period,  from  the  high  bank.  This 
remai'k,  in  the  opinion  of  Professor  Lyell,  and  other 
geologists,  holds  good  in  every  place,  where  large 
rocks  are  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the  Falls.  In  1816, 
a  rock  fell  just  above  the  Museum,  (Canada  side,) 
IGO  feet  long,  40  wide,  and  00  thick.  The  same 
year  a  large  rock,  weighing  several  hundred  tons, 
fell  near  Biddle  Stairs,  on  the  west  side  of  Goat  Isl- 
and, carrying  with  it,  in  its  fall,  a  part  of  the  roof 
of  the  Stairs.      In   1818,  immense  quantities  of 


A    FISSURE    lis    TARLE    ROCK. 


53 


rock  fell  botvveen  Bidelle  Stairs  and  the  Horse  Shoe 
Fall,  blocking  up  the  path  and  rendering  it  difficult 
to  get  to  the  water's  edge.  We  have  time  to  men- 
tion but  one  instance  more. 

Sunday  afternoon,  Feb.  2d.  1852,  a  portion  of 
the  precipice,  near  the  tower,  on  the  South  side  of 
Goat  Island,  fell  with  a  mighty  cravsh.  This  portion 
extended  from  the  edge  of  the  island  toward  the 
tower,  being  about  125  feet  long,  and  about  60  feet; 
wide,  of  a  somewhat  elliptical  shape,  and  reaching 
from  the  top  to  near  the  bottom  of  the  fall.  The 
next  day,  another  piece,  triangular,  with  a  base  of 
about  forty  feet,  broke  off  just  below  the  tower. 
But  the  next  gi-eat  performance  was  the  most  re- 
markable. Between  tlie  two  portions  that  had  pre- 
viously fallen,  stood  a  rectangular  projection,  about 
thirty  feet  long,  and  fifteen  feet  wide,  extending  from 
top  to  bottom  of  the  precipice.  This  immense  mass 
became  loosened  from  the  main  body  of  rock,  and 
settled  perpendicularly  about  eight  feet^  where  it 
now  stands,  an  enormous  column,  two  hundred  feet 
high,  by  the  dimensions  above.  The  severity  of  the 
winter,  and  the  lonof  continuance  of  the  intense  cold, 
have  doubtless  produced  these  results.  They  are 
splendid  exhibitions  of  the  power  of  frost,  in  releas- 
inc:  this  mass  of  rock  from  its  kindre/  stratum.  It 
held  it  within  its  cold  embrace  for  a  moment,  then 
hurled  it,  with  the  might  of  a  giant,  into  the  chasm 


I    1 


il 


64 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


!■  ; 


1.1 


f 


below.  And  they  strikingly  exemplify  the  i^osifcon 
of  Professor  Lyell,  in  reference  to  the  recession  of 
the  Falls,  which  is  found  on  another  page. 

£ji(H)ii]C(  of  ll)e  Gql^olioe. 

If  a  ship  on  fire  at  sea,  at  night,  in  a  thunder- 
storm, is  grand  and  terrific,  no  less  so  was  the  steam- 
boat Caroline  in  flames,  as  she  was  loosed  from  her 
moorings  at  the  old  landing,  near  Fort  Schlosser,  and 
towed  out  into  the  middle  of  the  river,  by  the  com- 
mand of  Col.  McNabb,  a  British  ofiicer.  Here  she 
was  abandoned  and  left  to  her  fate.  The  night  was 
intensely  dark.  She  moved  steadily  on  —  a  broad 
sheet  of  lurid  flame  shot  high  into  the  heavens,  illu- 
ming the  western  clouds  with  its  red  glare — rockets 
were  ascending  from  the  Canada  shore,  expressive 
of  the  success  of  the  expedition.  A  universal  shout, 
rings  out  upon  the  night  air,  from  the  party  who  have 
just  left  the  doomed  boat.     She  enters  the  rapids  at 

.  the  head  of  Goat  Island,  nearest  the  Canada  shore, 
careens  over,  rights,  and  passes  on  like  a  flaming 
meteor,  to  her  final  doom.  Strikes  upon  Gull  Isl- 
and ;  swings  around,  awfully  shattered  by  the  con- 
flict, the  flames  rolling  on  for  a  moment,  not  alarmed 

.  by  Niagara's  roar,  but  as  if  determined  not  to  be 
encircled  within  its  cold  embrace,  or  be  beaten  bv 
its  mighty  and  terrific  power.  The  war  of  the  ele- 
ments continues  for  an  instant  —  the  Caroline  has 


BOUNDARr    LINE. 


55 


pifeion 
nof 


disappeared, leaving  "not  a  wreck  behind; "and  Ki- 
agara  is  victor,  proclaiming  to  the  world  that  its 
power  is  not  lessened  by  the  strife  of  men,  or  any* 
casual  floating  substance  upon  its  bosom.  Very  few, 
however,  beheld  this  grand  spectacle,  as  it  was  in 
the  night,  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  had  retired 
from  the  frontiers.  It  is  not  our  purpose,  at  this 
time,  to  enter  into  the  minutia3  of  this  affair;  suffice 
it,  the  boat  was  charged  by  the  British  with  aiding 
the  I'efugees  by  carrying  provisions  and  arms  to  Navy 
Island,  which  doubtless  was  true.  This  specification 
was'brought  before  the  coui-t  by  the  British  consul  at 
the  trial  of  McLeod  for  the  murder  of  a  gentleman 
from  Butlalo  who  was  shot  on  board  the  Caroline. 
It  will  be  recollected  McLeod  was  acquitted. 

The  fragments  of  the  boat  that  lodged  on  Gull 

Island  remained  there  until  the  next  spring.     What 

was  left  of  her  after  passing  the  rapids,  went  over 

the  point  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall.     No  person,  we 

<  believe,  was  on  board.     December  29,  1839. 

As  agreed  upon  by  the  Commissioners,  (Gen.  P. 
B.  Porter  was  one,  on  behalf  of  the  U.  S.  govern- 
ment,) is  in  the  center  of  the  river,  or  deepest  chan- 
nel, passing  through  the  point  of  the  Horse  Shoe, 
through  the  center  of  Lake  Erie,  Lake  ^Superior, 
and  so  on  to  the  northern  boundaries  of  the  United 
Btates. 


50 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


5 

Ml' 


\  ^  i: 


This  boat  was  attached  to  a  raft  of  saw-L)gs,  and 
used  for  cooking,  and  as  a  lodging-room  for  the 
liands;  but  while  attempting  to  tow  this  raft  up  the 
river  from  Chippewa,  for  the  purpose  of  landing  it 
on  the  American  side,  the  rope  broke,  and  the  logs 
went  over;  but  the  boat  was  carried,  by  the  force  of 
the  current,  on  to  a  rock,  the  lower  side  nearly  out 
of  water.  It  remained  several  months,  but  when 
the  last  portion  of  Table  Rock  fell,  it  went  over. 

Is  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Falls,  on  the 
American  side.  It  is  memorable  for  its  antiquity, 
and  associations  of  the  British  and  French,  each 
holding  alternately  the  possession  as  early  as  J  775. 

Scarcely  a  vestige  of  the  ruins  marks  the  place 
where  it  once  stood.     It  is  not  visited  by  travelers. 

In  the  month  of  August,  1851,  the  writer  accom- 
panied a  party  of  Indians  from  the  north w^est  wilds 
of  Minesota,  (on  their  way  to  Washington,)  to  the 
foot  of  the  American  Falls.  The  wind  was  favor- 
aWe,  and  we  approached  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
falling  sheet.  They  gazed  in  rapt  wonder  on  the 
mighty  flood,  as  it  rolled  its  angry  w'aters,  and  fell 
upon  the  resounding  rocks  below.     For  a  long  time, 


1 


INDIAN    OFFERING    TO    THE    FALLS. 


57 


lli. 

md 
Ithe 
(the 
it 


>g9 


. 


every  muscle  of  tlicir  countenances  indicated  a 
religious  awe,  and  their  thouglits  ajjpeared  to  be 
communing  with  some  superior  power.  At  a  signal 
from  their  chief,  they  drew  a  small  red  pipe  from 
their  girdle,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  solemn  gestur- 
ing, each  threw  his  pipe  under  the  Falls.  This,  I 
"was  told  by  the  interpreter,  was  a  religious  offering 
to  the  Great  Spii'it,  that  he  would  be  propitious  to 
them,  on  their  journey,  and  return  them  in  safety 
to  their  homes.  Was  this  superstition,  or  was  it 
true  devotion?  We  then  conducted  them  to  the 
Tower,  on  the  west  side  of  Goat  IslaufL  They 
were  induced,  by  some  ladies  and  gentlemen  present, 
to  give  their  views  of  what  they  saw.  They  did  so, 
in  the  follow inof  words,  us,  far  as  their  lanojuaj^e  could 
be  interpreted. 

"  Brothers,"  said  the  chief,  "  we  live  in  tlie  woods, 
far  toward  the  setting:  sun.  Our  Fathei*s  once 
owned  these  lands,  and  this  river;  they  have  told 
us  of  these  Falls,  but  now  we  see  them.  Brothel's, 
you  are  great,  but  you  cannot  stop  this  watei* ;  you 
cannot  put  your  hand  on  its  mouth  and  make  it 
still.  Yonder,"  pointing  to  the  clouds,  "  is  the  great 
Spint ;  he  made  these,  and  this  is  his  work ;  and 
yonder,"  pointing  to  the  rainbow,  (which  at  the 
time  shone  most  brilliantly,)  "we  see  his  face  —  we 
see  him  smile.     We  shall  tell  our  cliil<lren what  w^e 

have  Been.     Brothers,  our  hearts  are  glad,  that  wo 
5* 


^ 


68 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


turned  aside  from  our  path,  to  see  tliis  great  wonder 
Brothers,  we  thank  the  whites  for  our  good  tr^at 
ment."  The  emotions  of  Red  Jacket,  the  cele- 
brated Indian  Chief,  while  visifing  the  Falls  some 
years  since,  were  of  a  very  different  character.  He 
admirecl  the  grandeur  of  nature's  work,  but  not 
with  that  religious  awe  and  devotional  feeling,  ai» 
did  those  wild  untutored  sons  of  the  forest,  men 
fioned  above.  Envy  and  jealousy  rankled  in  hif» 
bosom  against  the  white  man,  the  destroyer  of  his 
race.  He  saw,  at  a  glance,  the  superiority  of  the 
whites  over  the  red  man  of  the  woods,  and  he  hated 
him  for  that  he  had  not  the  power  to  become  his 
equal. 

Is  a  few  rods  to  the  right  of  the  Ferry  House,  on 
the  American  side.  This  was  the  last  residence  of 
Francis  Abbot,  the  Hermit  of  Niagara.  On  this 
spot,  a  Pagoda  was  raised,  wbich  placed  the  specta- 
tor at  an  elevation  of  more  than  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  cataract,  and  two  hundred  and  seventy 
feet  above  the  river ;  but  it  was  taken  down  about 
two  years  since.  Nevertheless,  the  view  from  this 
point  is  grand  and  imposing.  The  American  and 
Horse  Shoe ;  Goat  Island  with  its  stately  oaks  and 
dark  waving  forest ;  the  opposite  iron-bound  shore ; 
the  river  below,  with  the  Ferry  Boats,  dancing  lik^ 


i 


STANZAS. 


59 


things  of  life  upon  the  agitated  waters;  all  rendei 
it  a  place  of  much  attractiveness. 

§  f  f|  i]  2  q  3 

Addressed  to  the  sojourners  at  Niagara  Falls,  on  commencing  tho 
building  of  the  Pagoda,  August  11,  1843. 

Those  who  have  rambled  over  the  wild  domain. 
And  still  desire  to  view  it  once  again, 
Enter  the  garden  where  an  Abbott  dwelt, 
And  roam  where  he,  enraptured,  gazed  and  knelt. 
Still  even  yet  those  plaintive  strains  I  hear. 
Which  once  he  wakened  —  and  the  pensive  tear 
Steals  softly  o*er  my  cheek,  while  the  full  heart 
Essays  to  know  what  sorrow  winged  the  dart 
Which  sent  him  foilh  a  wanderer  from  his  home, 
'Mid  these  majestic  scenes  in  silent  grief  to  roam  I 

Say,  wanderers  I  would  ye  dare  the  wild  excess 
Of  joy  and  wonder  words  can  ne'«r  express  ? 
Would  ye  fain  steal  a  glance  o'er  life's  dark  sea. 
And  gaze,  though  trembling,  on  Eternity  ? 
Would  ye  look  out,  look  down  where  God  hath  set 
His  mighty  signet  I  Come  —  come  higher  yet, 
And  from  the  unfinished  structure  gaze  abroad,     ^ 
And  wonder  at  the  power  of  God  I 
To  the  Pagoda's  utmost  height  ascend, 
And  see  earth,  air  and  sky  in  one  alembic  blend  I 

XJp_- though  the  trembling  limb,  and  nerveless  hand, 

Strive  to  detain  thee  on  the  solid  land  ; 

Up  —  thoufrh  the  lieart  may  fail,  the  eye  grow  dim. 

Soon  will  the  spirit  nerve  the  quivering  limb. 

Up  the  rude  ladder !  gain  the  utmost  verge  — 

Far,  fa^  bolow,  behold  the  angry  surge  ; 


60 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


h'-  ! 


I  i 


Beneath  your  feet  the  rainbow's  arch  declines. 
Gleaming  with  richer  gems  than  India's  mines ; 
And  deep  within  the  gulf,  yet  farther  down, 
'Mid  mist  and  foam  :ind  spray,  behold  Niagara's  crown, 

ALMIBA. 

Addressed  to  the  same  on  completing  the  edifice,  October  25, 1844* 

'T  is  finished,  and  the  steps  I  now  ascend. 
While  proud  Niagara's  waters  round  me  bend  ; 
Tho'  nerves  may  tremble,  fears  may  fear  alarm, 
Yet  the  Pagoda  stands  secure  from  harm : 
And,  while  I  trembling  wind  its  lofty  height, 
I  stop  to  rest  and  rapture  fills  the  sight  — 
The  trembling  limb  gives  place  to  firmer  step. 
The  summits  gained  !  majestic  nature 's  met  I 
Oh  rapturous  gaze,  yet  had  I  Shakspeare's  pen. 
It  would  not  —  could  not  take  the  prospect  in. 

"Wondrous,  sublime,  transcending  all  I  've  seen—    ' 
There's  something  more  than  language  can  explain, 
Those  spc^rkling  torrents  from  those  dizzy  heights. 
Gilded  with  Sun  by  day,  and  Moon  by  night ; 
That  watery  mist,  that  forms  the  radiant  bow. 
Then  fertilizes  all  the  land  below  — 
That  noble  river,  studded  thick  with  green  ; 
Those  roaring  Rapids  rushing  fast  between  — 
The  tranquil  Lake  above,  in  foliage  rich  I  view. 
Following  the  scene,  the  Whirlpool  rapids  too  — 
My  eye 's  exhausted  with  the  rapturous  gaze, 
My  heart's  expanded  giving  God  the  praise. 

The  abovG   remarks  of  tlie  poet,  except  tliose 


M. 


n 


A   SABBATH   AT   NIAGARA. 


61 


alludiug  to  the  Pagoda,  are  still  applicable  to  this 

place.  THE    AUTHOR. 

The  following  fragment,  written  in  the  Register 
of  the  Point  View  Garden,  at  Niagara  Falls,  on 
Sunday,  August  1st,  1847,  by  Dr.  Baxley,  of  Bal- 
timore, illustrates  the  profound  impressions  produced 
on  the  m<nd  and  heart  by  this  most  wonderful  work 
of  Nature. 

Here,  near  the  leraple  of  Almighty  God, 

The  soul  wrapp'd  in  humility,  bows  down 

-In  awe,  and  revei'ence.     *T  is  meet  that  man, 

The  creature,  beholding  the  bold  displays 

Of  pow*r  stupendous,  wisdom  infinite. 

Should  look,  through  nature's  grandest  witness,  up 

To  nature's  God.     And  deeming  here  all  time 

A  Sabbath,  yet  on  this  day  appointed 

Holy  to  Him  who  rear'd  these  rocky  walls. 

Buttressed  below  by  tide- washed  massive  piles, 

Entablatur'd  with  beetling  battlements, 

And  cornic'd  with  a  waving  wilderness 

Of  verdure' —  who  outspread  yon  azure  roof, 

Now  softly  mellow'd  with  ethereal  tint, 

Or  darkened  by  the  thunder's  messenger 

Gilded  anon  by  lightning's  gleams  ;  or  now 

Radiant  with  starry  hosts,  whose  mirror'd  beams 

Carpet  the  billowy  floor  with  silv'ry  light  — 

Who  raised  yon  altar,  and  upon  its  brow 

Of  emerald,  in  characters  of  light 

Inscrib'd,  e'en  with  his  own  right  hand,  "  To  God  I  '• 


62 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


Where  ministering  birds  with  notes  attun'd 

To  an  eternal  anthem,  hymn  His  praise. 

And  bear  on  dewy  wings  a  pearly  cloud 

Of  incense  up  toward  the  Almighty's  throne, 

Fit  worshipers  in  nature's  holiest  fane  — 

Who  guards  the  portal  of  this  sacred  place. 

With  ever- heaving  sea  of  snowy  foam, 

Whose  tempest  voice,  to  man  presumptuous,  calli 

"  Thus,  and  no  farther  shalt  thou  go,"  and  points 

To  ceaseless  whirling  tides,  the  awful 

Maelstrom  of  Kiagara,  dread  emblem  of 

Th'  eternal  doom  of  man,  vain  man,  who  seeks 

To  pass  the  limit  of  assigned  command. 

And  moral  law  — 

E'en  on  this  Sabbath  day, 
Here,  near  God's  own  great  temple,  would  we  bow 
In  humble  praise,  and  prayer  ;  and  while  the  lip 
Rests  silent,  would  the  soul  its  homage  give, 
And  favor  seek  ;  petitioning,  that  in 
The  devious  path  of  life,  so  may  we  move. 
That  when  these  rocks  shall  melt  with  fervid  heat, 
When  the  rich  garniture  of  teeming  earth 
Shall  vanish,  leaving  no  trace  of  brightness 
Or  of  beauty,  to  tell  that  it  once  was  ; 
This  restless  tide  no  longer  flow,  and  its 
Deep  cadence  cease  ;  when  the  blue  dome  that  spanf 
The  earth,  shall  pale  away,  and  radiant  spheres. 
No  longer  shed  abroad  their  hallow  *d  light ; 
Then  may  the  hope,  that  rests  upon  His  word 
Who  ne'er  was  false  to  man,  who  hangs  his  bow 
Upon  the  cloud,  and  spreads^ft  night  and  day 
Upon  His  altar's  incense,  token  to  man 
Alike  of  his  redeeming  power,  and  will ; 


I 


TO    NIAGARA. 


69 


Then  may  the  hope  that  on  His  word  relies, 
Nurtur'd  by  love,  and  rectitude,  grow  strong 
In  trust,  and  prescience  of  a  home  "  not  made 
"With  hands,  eternal  in  the  Heavens  1 " 
August  1, 1847. 

WRITTEN  AT  THE  FffiST  SIGHT  OP  ITS  FALLS,  1838,   BY  J.  S.  BUCKINGHAM. 

Hail  1  Sovereign  of  the  World  of  Floods  I  whose  majesty 

and  might 
Firet  dazzles  —  then  enraptures  —  then  o'erawes  the  aching 

sight ; 
The  pomp  of  Kings  and  Emperors  —  in  every  clime  and 

zone. 
Grows  dim  beneath  the  splendor  of  thy  glorious  watery 

throne. 

No  fleets  can  stop  thy  progress  —  no  armies  bid  thee  stay- 
But  onward  —  onward —  onward  —  thy  march  still  holds 

its  way ; 
The  rising  mist  that  vails  thee,  as  thine  herald  goes  before, 
And  the  music  that  proclaims  thee,  is  the  thundering 

cataract  *s  roar. 

Thy  diadem  is  an  emerald  green,  of  the  clearest,  purest  hue. 
Set  round  with  waves  of  snow-white  foam,  and  spray  of 

featherv  dew. 
While  tresvses  of  the  brightest  pearls  float  o  'er  thy  ample 

sheet, 
And  the  rainbow  lays  its  gorgeous  gems  in  tribute  at  thy 

feet. 

Thy  reign  is  of  the  ancient  days  —  thy  scepter  from  on 
high  — 


J 


64 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDH. 


i:     I' 


Thy  birth  was  when  the  morning  stars  together  sang 

with  joy  ; 
The  sun  —  the  moon,  and  all  the  orbs  that  shine  upon 

thee  now, 
Saw  the  first  wreath  of  glory  which  twined  thine  infant 

brow. 

I. 

And  from  that  hour  to  this  —  in  which  I  gaze  upon  thy 
stream,  * 

From  age  to  age  —  in  winter's  frost,  or  summer's  sultry 
beam  — 

By  day,  by  night  —  without  a  pause  —  thy  waves  with 
loud  acclaim. 

In  ceaseless  sounds,  have  still  proclaimed,  the  Great  Eter- 
nal name. 

For  whether,  on  thy  forest  banks,  the  Indian  of  the  wood, 

Or,  since  his  days,  the  red  man's  foe,  on  his  father-land 

has  stood  — 

'WTio  e'er  has  seen  thine  incense  rise,  or  heard  thy  torrent's 

roar, 
Must  have  bent  before  the  God  of  all,  to  worship  and  adore. 

Accept    then,   O    Supremely    Great  I  —  0   Infinite  1  —  O 

God  I 
From  this  primeval  altar  —  the  green  and  virgin  sod  — 
The  humble  homage  that  my  soul  in  gratitude  would  pay 
To  Thee  I   whose  shield  has  guarded  me  thro'  all  my 

wandering  way. 

For,  if  the  ocean  be  as  naught  in  the  hollow  of  thy  hand, 
And  the  stars  of  the  bright  firmament,  in  thy  balance, 

grains  of  sand, 
If  Niagara's  flood  seem  great  —  to  us  who  lowly  bow  — 
0  I  Gr^at  Creator  of  the  whole  1  how  passing  great  art 

Thou  I 


H 


catlin's  cave.  65 

Yet,  tho»  thy  power  is  greater  here 

Than* finite  mind  may  scan, 
Still  greater  is  thy  mercy, 

Shown  to  weak  dependent  man. 

For  him  thou  cloth'st  the  fertile  fields 

With  herbs,  and  fruit,  and  seed, 
For  him  the  woods,  the  lakes  supply 

His  hourly  need. 

Around,  on  high  —  or  far  or  near  — 

The  universal  whole, 
Proclaim  thy  glory,  as  the  orbs 

In  their  fixed  courses  roll. 

And,  from  creation's  grateful  voice. 

Thy  hymn  ascends  above, 
While  Heaven  re-echoes  back 

The  chorus,  God  is  love. 

Is  on  the  American  side,  about  sixty  rods  below 
tbe  Ferry,  and  this  is  the  only  way  of  gettinrr  to  it. 
The  bank  is  steep  and  precipitous,  and  difRcult  of 
access.  It  is  rbout  fifteen  feet  wide,  and  ten  high. 
Except  as  containing  a  few  speoimens  of  petiified 
moss,  it  is  not  an  object  of  interest,  and  is  seldom 
visited  by  strangers. 


?:\ 


CHAPTER  III. 

If)e  1^oi|fe  io  SmK  &^^^  ^o^li»)  ^k  i')^  Sil^-* 

The  time  of  starting  on  this  excursion,  for  visi- 
tors generally,  is  after  breakfast.^  This  gives  ample 
time  to  view  all  the  places  of  interest  in  Canada, 
and  return  before  dinner,  and  be  ready  for  the  after- 
noon train.  Most  of  visitors.  We  think,  in  taking 
this  route,  prefer  getting  a  carriag^e  on  this  side,  to 
take  them  all  round,  and  return  when  they  please. 
The  drivers  will  say  that  they  will  take  you  to  Table 
Rock  for  two,  three,  and  sometihies  four  dollars. 
But  the  regular  piice  at  the  Livery  Stable,  for  a 
good  carriage,  is  one  dollar  an  hour.  Others  again 
prefer  riding  to  the  Suspension  Bridge,  and  getting 
a  carriage  on  that  side,  to  take  them  to  the  Rock  or 
elsewhere.  I  can^only  say,  if  I  were  going  myself 
with  a  party,  I  should  get  a  carriage  on  this  side, 
for  it  is  sometimes  the  case  you  cannot  get  a  good 
one  on  the  othtjr  side  of  the  Bridge.  The  differ- 
ence in  the  expense  is  but  trifling,  and  frequently  it 
costs  the  visitor  more,  by  depending  on  that  side  for 
his  conveyance.  One  thing  further  before  we  start, 
the  visiitor  will  understand,  and  that  is,  whether  he 


SUSPENSION    BRIDGE. 


67 


^- 


)I6 

la. 


engages  a  carnage  by  the  hour,  or  hy  the  job;  it 
does  not  include  the  toll  at  the  BiiJiro,  unless  a 
special  bargain  is  made  to  that  effect.  The  tolls  are 
as  follows:  at  the  gate  on  the  Plank  Road,  going  and 
returning,  for  a  carriage  5  cents;  at  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  for  each  passenger  going  over  and  returning, 
(if  it  is  the  same  day,)  25  cents,  or  12  1-2  cents 
each  way.  If  he  does  not  return,  the  charge  is  the 
same.  For  each  carriage  drawn  by  two  horses,  go- 
^  ing  and  returning,  is  50  cencs  —  if  he  does  not  re- 
turn, it  is  the  same,  (i.  e.)  25  cents  for  each  passen- 
ger, and  50  cents  for  the  carriage  besides.  The 
above  remarks  are  deemed  necessary,  because 
strangers  are  sometimes  deceived. 

Is  two  miles  below  the  Falls  with  a  good  Plank 
Road  leading  from  all  the  Hotels  on  this  side  to  it. 
The  Bridge,  when  completed,  will  not  be  surpassed 
for  bold  daring,*  and  magnificent  grSndeur,  by  any 
work  of  a  similar  cliaracter  on  this  continent,  or 
perhaps  on  the  globe. 

The  following  table  shows  the  Basket  Ferry,  and^ 
the  temporary  towers  of  the  Foot  Bridge,  when 
Mr.  Elliott,  his  lady,  and  many  of  our  citizens,  both 
gentlemen  and  ladies,  crossed  over  the  river  in  a 
Basket,  on  a  single  wire,  about  an  inch  in  diameter, 
two  hundred   and  thirty   feet   above  one  of  the 


68 


EVERY   MAN    IIIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


Vi 


f 


maddest  streams  on  the  globe.  The  Basket,  with  twt. 
and  sometimes  three  persons  in  it,  was  suspended 
under  the  wire,  and  run  down  on  an  inclined  plane, 
by  means  of  wheels,  very  much  at  such  an  angle  as 
the  wires  now  are.  They  would  pass  from  the  high 
towers  to  the  center  of  the  course,  and  then  would 
be  drawn  up  by  a  windkvss  on  the  opposite  side, 
and  so  vice  versa.  The  usual  time  in  crossing  was 
from  three  to  four  minutes.*  The  work,  under  the 
supervision  of  the  enterprising  engineer,  Mr.  Elliott, . 
was  rapidly  progressing,  when  the  plank  on  the 
Foot  Bridge,  which  were  not  bolted  down,  were 
blown  off  by  a  tremendous  tornado  into  the  rapids. 
Six  men  were  at  work  on  the  bridge  at  the  time, 
two  made  their  escape  to  the  shore  —  the  frail 
structure  next  the  tower  was  gone  —  four  men  were 
left  at  the  mercy  of  the  tempest,  hanging  with  but 
two  strands  of  No.  10  wire  to  support  them,  and  pre- 
vent their  falling  into  the  rapids  below.  The  wires 
to  which  they  clung,  with  the  tenacity  of  despair, 
oscillated  with  the  utmost  velocity  sixty  or  seventy 
feet.  The  wind  increased,  and  for  a  moment  no 
power  short  of  Omnipotence  appeared  capable  of 
affording  them  the  least  relief.  Their  cries  for 
assistance  were  becoming  more  feeble  and  indistinct, 
^ntil  they  died  away  and  were  entirely  lost  amid 

*  The  Basket  is  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  Bridge,  kept 
for  visitors  to  look  at 


led 
ine, 
as 


0 

StI6I»E^'SlON    BRIDGE.  69 

thj howling  tempest;  tlieir  hold  on  life  more  and 
more  enfeebled,  and  it  was  expected  by  those  who 
beheld  this  heart-rending  scene,  every  instant  to 
see  them  make  the  headlonu'  ])liino-e.  The  wind 
lulled  for  a  moment,  the  Basket  was  instantly  let 
down,  with  one  man,  carrying  a  small  ladder,  rest- 
ing on  the  bottom  and  extendinix  to  the  wires  to 
which  tliey  hung,  and  thus  one  of  the  men  de- 
scended and  was  drawn  to  the  shore.  Returning 
the  second  time,  for  the  others,  one  of  them  ex- 
claimed, "be  quick,  my  strength  is  most  gone,  I 
shall  fall  in!"  but  fortunately  they  were  all  saved; 
one  of  them,  however,  could  not  stand  for  two 
hours  after  he  got  to  the  shore.  When  the  Foot 
Bridge  was  laid  down,  before  there  was  any  railing, 
Mr.  Elliot  drove  a  horse  and  buggy  across,  and 
returned. 

The  following  are  the  dimensions  of  the   Great 
Railroad  Suspension  Bridge: 

Len£^tli  of  span  from  centra  to  centre  of  Tow^crs  800  foet. 
Height  of  Tower  above  rock  on  the  Am'n  side     88  " 
«         «  u  a  a         u       Can:ul*ii  "      78  " 

**       "        "  "        Floor  of  Kailway....     (50  " 

"        "  track        "        Water 258  " 

Number  of  Wire   Cables 4 

Diameter  of  each  Cable 1  Odin's 

Number  of  No.  9  wires  in  eacli  Cable 3(559 

Ulrimate    a^'gregate    strength    of    Cables..  1!2, KlOt'na 

Weight   of  Superstructure 800  " 

•«        •*  "     and  maximum  loads 1250  *' 

Maximum  weight  the  cable  and  stays  will  sup- 
port  7300" 


1 

10  EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 

Rise  of  Tower? Ifi  ft.  |fl. 

Top 8     " 

Leuf^^thof  each  iijiper  Cable 12501  feet. 

•'"      «      "      lower      •*     111)0     " 

Depth  of  anchor  pits  below  ftiirface  of  rock.  ..20  to  30  " 

Outside  width  ot  Uiiil  Road  floor 24     '*     ; 

Iimide         "       "       "         **  "    22     **     i 

Total  length  of  Wire  in  miles 4C00  j 

The  novelty  of  crossing  and  connecting  the  two 
Governments,  by  an  Iron  chain,*  was  tiie  bridge 
first  used  13th  of  March,  1848,  built  by  Mr.  Chas. 
ElHot.  It  was  a  liglit  and  airy  structure, — a  mere 
spider  web,  compared  with  the  present  substantial  R. 
K  bridge.  The  first  one  cost  less  than  850,000.  The 
bridge  as  it  now  stands, — one  of  the  greatest  engi- 
neering achievements  in  the  world,  was  built  under 
the  control  of  John  A.  Roeblin2:  as  Eno-ineer,  and 
Architect,  at  a  cost  of  about  8500,000.  It  was  a 
proud  day  for  Mr.  Roebling,  Thursday,  March  8th, 
1855,  when  he  crossed  by  steam  for  the  first  time, 
this  wonderful  structure.  The  caniao-e  floor  which 
will  also  be  used  for  foot  passengers,  is  suspended  28 

feet  below  the  R.  R.  track ;  it  is  therefore  an  enclo- 
sure, securely  railed  in,  affording  to  visitors,by  walk- 
ing across,  (which  is  usually  preferred)  the  finest  op- 
portunity of  viewing  the  scenery  both  up  and  down 
the  river,  and  giving  ample  time  to  fully  appreciate 
the  astonishing  mechanism  on  which  they  are  stand- 

*The  wires  were  first  got  across  by  means  of  a  Kite. 


BENDERS    CAVE. 


71 


10. 

ft 

bet. 


ing  over  the  awful  gulpli  beneath.  Tlie  R.  R.  Bridgo 
is  constructecl  to  moot  the  wants  of  all  the  lines  ef 
R.  K  that  ceutre  here.  A  G  foot  o-uaire  is  laid  r.cross 
for  the  Erie  Road — a  4  foot  8 J-  inch  for  the  New 
York  Central,  and  a  6  foot  6  inch  for  the  Great 
\Ve5*tern  Canada  Road.  Thus  although  there  are 
three  distinct  tracks  laid  across  tlie  bridge,  only  one 
train  can  occupy  them  at  once  —  all  being  within 
the  compass  of  a  G  foot  guage,  and  by  an  ingenious 
contrivance  of  switcn  i,  ail  possibility  of  danger  from 
collision  is  avoided. 

After  crossing  the  bridge  take  the  left  hand  road ; 
this  gives  you  a  better  view  of  the  deep  green  river 
below  you,  the  perpendicular,  rocky  banks  for  two 
miles,  and  you  arrive  at  the  Clifton  House.  For  a 
description  of  the  several  places  you  will  visit,  see 
Appendix. 

Is  on  the  Canada  side,  about  half  way  between 
the  Clifton  House  and  the  Suspension  Bridge.  It 
is  a  cavity  in  the  bank,  about  six  feet  high,  and 
twenty  long,  formed  by  a  decomposition  of  the  lime- 
stone.    It  is  not  a  place  of  much  resort 


CHAPTER  IV. 


l;i 


*i. 


ill 


i', 


Whirlpool,  on  the  American  side,  is  tliree  miles 
below  the  Falls ;  there  is  an  excellent  carriage-road, 
plankc'.l  the  most  of  the  way.  Expenses  for  car- 
riage, one  dollar  per  hour.  Pfissing  through  the 
gate  near  the  Bank,  twenty -five  cents  for  each  per- 
son. This  is  entirely  different  from  any  thing  which 
has  been  seen  about  Niagara.  After  viewing  this 
wild  freak  of  nature's  work  from  above,  let  the  visi- 
tor, by  all  means,  go  below.  From  a  bench  placed 
for  the  accommodation  of  travelei's,  let  him  step 
about  thirty  feet  up  the  river.  Here  commences  tho 
winding  circuitous  stairway  that  leads  to  the  water's 
edge.  There  is  no  place  about  Niagara  as  wild  and 
terrific  as  this. 

About  half  way  down  the  bank  is  a  smooth,  flat 
rock,  projecting  over  his  path  some  ten  feet.  This 
is  called  the  half-way  house.  Parties  of  pleasure 
frequently  drink  a  bottle  of  champagne  here  in  lionor 
of  the  place.  At  the  foot  is  a  small  tree  leaning  to- 
ward the  bank ;  it  would  be  well  to  mark  this,  as  it  is 
the  only  j)lace  where  you  can  ascend.  While  stand- 
ing upon  the  rocks  near  the  water's  edge,  cast  youi 


ip 


A   TOUR   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


73 


eyes  up  the  river  toward  the  Canada  shore;  you 
will  at  once  perceive  the  river  is  very  considerably 
higher  in  the  center  than  it  is  on  each  side.  It  is 
estimated  by  the  Engineers,  to  be  eleven  and  a  half 
feet.  If  two  men  stand,  the  one  with  his  feet  in 
the  water  on  the  American  side,  and  the  other  on 
the  Canada  shore,  and  extend  their  hands  as  high 
as  they  can  reach,  with  a  handiiv?rchief  or  any  thing 
of  the  kind  in  it,  it  cannot  be  seen  by  either.  We 
know  of  no  way  to  account  for  this  wonderful  freak 
of  nature  unless  its  being  compressed  within  the 
banks,  and  meeting  with  such  resistance  on  the 
Canada  side,  having  to  turn  almost  an  acute  angle, 
that  it  cannot  find  its  way  out  as  fast  as  it  aiccumu- 
lates  above.  Our  business,  however,  is  not  to  phi- 
losophize, but  to  state  facts.  The  Whirlpool  is 
visited  by  thousands  for  the  Tvild  and  magnificent 
grandeur  of  its  scenery.  The  /'iver,  in  its  wildest 
fury,  lUshes  against  a  perpendicular  bank  about  three 
hundred  feet  high,  producing  a  re-action,  roaring 
and  swelling  like  some  enraged  giant  struggling 
to  be  free.  Logs,  and  other  bodies,  have  been 
known  to  float  in  this  whirl  of  waters  for  forty,  and 
sometimes  nmety  days,  before  they  could  find  their 
way  out. 

The  following  are  among  the  many  questions  usu- 
ally /isked  by  the  visitor  before  descending  the  bank. 
7 


74 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


Q.  St.  Mary,  what  a  scene  is  this !  Where  does 
the  river  go  ?  .... 

A.  There  is  no  internal  outlet.  Step  a  few  rods 
below  —  now  look ! 

One  of  the  Ladies.  How  beautiful  and  clear, 
and  yet  how  powerful  and  rapid!  With  whafc 
commotion  it  bounds  away  I  Is  this  a  branch  of 
Niagara  ? 

A.  No,  Madam,  this  is  the  whole  of  the  river 
—  all  the  Niajja  ra  w^e  have. 

Lady.  Oh!  wonderful,  sublime,  and  mighty 
river ! 

A.     It  is  truly  a  wonderful  river. 

Three  and  a  half  miles  below  the  Falls  is  the 
Whirlpool ;  and  here  a  man  by  the  name  of  Samuel 
Whitmore,  of  this  township,  threw  a  stone  across  to 
the  Canada  shore. 

N'^te. — In  June,  1841,  three  young  men,  desert- 
el's  from  the  British  Army,  in  attempting  to  cross 
the  Niagara  River  in  the  night,  below  the  Falls,  were 
drowned,  and  their  bodies  were  carried  into  the 
Whirlpool.  For  nearly  two  weeks  they  were  float- 
ing round,  amid  the  wrecks  and  floating  timbers. 

The  following  remarks,  by  a  gentleman  who  saw 
them  several  days  afterward,  are  descriptive  of  the 
Bcene,  and  we  regret  the  w^riter  s  name  is  withheld. 

The  Author, 


\ 


■does 

rods 

[lear, 
Ivliat 
of 


SCENE    AT    THE    AVIIIllLPOOL.  ^5. 

From  far  above,  impetuously 

The  raging  waters  sweep  ; 
They  come  iu  tlieir  sublimity. 

Descending  leap  o'er  leap  ; 
In  wrath  and  foam  they  rush  along  — 

Through  ca'-ern'd  rocks  they  flow, 
And  high  toward  the  mirror'd  skies. 

The  feathery  mist  they  throw. 

Legend  of  the  Whirlpool. 

Drive  on,  Drive  on  ye  ever  curling  waves.  Still 
fall,  rebound,  and  sink  away,  in  deafening  notes; 
let  your  wild  chorus  pea],  while  from  the  shore, 
the  trembling  rocks  give  way,  and  roll  destruction 
to  the  caverned  deep.  Amazement  fills  my  mind 
while  I  beheld  these  awful  depths,  doomed  to 
perpetual  strife,  to  agitation,  and  unceasing  war. 
Those  barriers  firm,  the  rolling  waves,  within  the 
bounds  prescribed  by  Him  who  made  them  for  his 
pleasure  and  at  his  word  piled  high,  those  monu- 
mental rocks.  The  powerful  stream  has  rent  aside 
the  earth,  and  far  below  the  hills,  and  the  surround- 
ing plain  has  sunk  its  course,  sweeping  resistless  on 
its  way,  till,  where  old  time  on  yonder  lofty  point 
has  raised,  for  ages  past,  his  throne  of  massive  rocks, 
he  bids  the  waves  be  stayed ;  receding  back  affrighted 
from  their  course,  adverse  they  flow  to  nature's 
general  law.  The  mighty  flood  reels  like  a  drunken 
man,  it  wreths  and  foams.     The  angry  Whirlpool 


76 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


roars,  till  forced  beneath,  the  rusliing  eddies  sink, 
and  all  above  the  torrent  overwhelming,  spreads 
abroad.  Forced  from  below  the  imprisoned  waters 
gush,  and  plunge  exulting  on  their  course.  Terror 
her  ever  wakeful  vigils  keeps,  and  frightful  death 
presents  his  loathsome  front.  E'en  now  his  work 
is  riding  on  the  deep,  in  mystic  maze  around,  submis- 
sive here.  And  there,  hideous  to  sight,  amid  broken 
wrecks  three  human  forms  appear  as  in  life ;  with 
arms  outspread  upon  the  tossing  waves,  they  whirl 
in  the  terrific  dance  of  death;  in  waving  unison 
above  their  heads,  in  snow-white  plumes  the  screech- 
ing gulls  repeat  their  cry,  sad,  shrill,  and  dissonant. 
It  is  their  banquet,  and  to  them  their  notes,  amid 
their  feast  is  sweet  and  musical.  It  even  was 
voluptuary's  song.  Late,  in  those  forms  high 
expectations  blazed,  of  liberty,  of  hope,  of  happi- 
ness, the  promised  land  in  view,  comfort,  long  life, 
freedom  and  all  the  aspirations  which  man's  fond 
heart  revels  rejoicing  in,  when  the  rapt  mind  the 
glorious  future  paints.  Thy  stream,  Niagara,  lay 
midway  between  the  prospect  of  their  visionary 
joys.  They  trusted  to  thy  cold  embracing  waves, 
and  they  are  thine ;  cut  off'  from  life  they  perished 
while  hope's  bewitching  flowers  were  blossoming  for 
them.  Thou  ruthless  stream  upon  whose  heaving 
bosom  they  are  borne,  night  after  night  its  lonely 
darkness  spreads,  and  day  succeeds  to  day,  still  thou 


DEVIL  S    HOLE. 


77 


Ilk, 
lads 
-ers 
•ror 
lath 
)rk 
lis- 


I 


; 


cradlest  them  in  cruel  mockery  of  this  world's  hope. 
How  did  they  give  up  life;  and  with  cold  death, 
with  what  strong  agony  did  tliey  contend !  What 
prayers  arose,  what  thoughts,  what  words  were 
theirs!  How, 'mid  the  waves,  they  cheered  each 
other  on.  Hold  on,  the  shore  is  near !  I  see  it 
there.  Help,  my  strength  fails,  I  sink — have 
mercy,  Lord  !  Who  knows  his  lot,  when  will  death 
strike  his  blow;  'mid  gurghng  floods  shall  our  last 
struggles  be,  or  shall  our  doom  in  instant  vengeance 
fall,  our  bodies  riven  by  the  flash  of  Heaven  ?  Who 
formed  us  men,  will  work  his  own  good  end,  and 
to  his  will  let  all  submissive  bow. 

On  returning  to  the  plank-road,  through  a  delight- 
ful grove,  if  the  visitor  wishes  he  can  visit  the 
Bloody  Run,  or  the  Devils  Hole.  It  is  about  a  mile 
below,  and  Chasm  Tower  in  the  neighborhood. 

Sibil's  ifole 

Is  three  and  a  half  miles  below  the  Falls  on  the 
American  side,  formed  by  a  chasm  in  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  river  one  hundi-ed  fifty  or  two  hundred 
feet  deep.  An  angle  of  this  gulf  is  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  road,  oft'ering  the  t)-aveler,  without  alight- 
ing, an  opportunity  of  looking  into  the  yawning 
abyss  beneath.  Larmg  the  French  war,  a  detach- 
nient  of  the  British  armv,  while  retreatiniy  from 
Fort  Schlosser,  (about  five  miles  south,)  were  decoyed 


78 


EVERY    MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


into  an  ambush  of  Frencli  and  Indians.  The  yell 
of  the  savage,  as  it  rung  out  upon  the  midnight  air, 
was  the  first  indication  of  their  attack.  Baggage- 
wagons,  oliicers,  men,  women  and  children,  were  en- 
circled and  pushed  over  the  bank,  and  plunged  into 
the  awful  chasm  below.  By  the  most  authentic  ac- 
count, the  number  who  perished  is  two  hundred  and 
fifty.  Their  bones  lay  bleaching  for  years,  and 
some  of  them  are  to  be  seen  to  this  day.  Two 
pei-sons  only  escaped ;  a  drummer  who  was  caught 
in  the  branch  of  a  tree  in  his  descent,  and  a  man 
by  the  name  of  Stedman,  (the  same  who  put  the 
*  goats  upon  Goat  Island ;)  while  attempting  to  flee, 
the  bridle-reins  were  seized  by  the  savages ;  he  in- 
stantly cut  them  loose  and  escaped.  The  Indians 
afterward  gave  him  all  the  land  he  encircled  in  his 
flight,  which  was  the  point  between  the  Devil's  Hole 
and  Fort  Schlosser,  including  the  Falls.  The  visitor 
can  descend  the  stairs  to  the  water's  edge  if  he 
chooses,  but,  like  the  "Indian  gun,  it  costs  more 
than  it  comes  to."  What  has  produced^ this  wonder- 
ful chasm,  is  left  much  to  conjecture  to  determine. 
Professor  Lyell  thinks  the  small  stream  that  pours 
over  into  the  gulf,  near  an  old  saw-mill,  would  have 
been  "perfectly  competent  to  have  cut  the  ravine, 
and  we  need  look  for  no  more  powerful  cause." 
The  battle  above  mentioned,  occurred  1765.  Charges 
for  going  on  to  the  rock,  and  descending  the  stairs 


I 


I 


I 


ii 


( I 


yell 

air, 
age- 
^n- 
into 
ac- 
and 
and 
Two 
Light 
man 
the 
flee, 


i 


CHASM  TOWER MAID  OF  THE  MIST,  «fcC.         79 

below,  twelve  and  a  half  cents.     Chasm  Tower,  or 
Mount  Eagle,  is  a  few  rods  below. 

Is  three  and  a  half  miles  below  the  Falls,  Amer- 
ican side.  A  panoramic  view,  the  specular  medium 
on  the  top  of  the  Tower,  through  which  the  land- 
scape is  viewed  in  varied  and  glowing  colors,  the 
deep  gulf,  the  infuriated  river,  as  it  roars  and  rushes 
with  the  velocity  of  light,  the  Canada  shore, 
Brock's  monument,  make  it  attractive,  and  visitors 
are  generally  interested.  Charges  twelve  and  a 
half  cenbs  for  ascending  the  Tower,  seventy-five  feet 
high. 

3)fi|iD  of  fl)e  Ijhi, 

Two  miles  below  the  Falls',  usually  makes  three 
trips  a  day,  passing  American  Fall,  Goat  Island, 
Horse  Shoe  Fall,  and  returns  to  her  landing  just 
above  the  Suspension  Bridge.  The  boat  makes  her 
trip  in  about  lhii*ty-five  or  foiiy  minutes. 

Jf  ( 0 1^  h}  e  0   ^  0  9   G  i(  i  5  e  3 . 

There  is  generally  carriages  to  be  had  at  any 
time,  and  at  all  places  that  you  may  be;  for  the 
hackraen  make  it  a  business  to"  hunt  up  parties,  and 
carry  them  wherever  they  may  want  to  go.  There 
are  also  persons  who  act  as  guides^  and  who  go  with 


80  EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

parties.  They  are  very  useful,  especially  if  you 
have  but  a  short  time  to  stay,  and  want  to  mako 
tlie  most  of  the  time  you  can. 

From  C.ilaract  House  to  Ferry 90  rods 

«      the  EagleHoteL. 85  " 

"       "    Falls  Hotel 80  " 

"      «     St.  Lawrence 75  " 

«      "     Nia^araHoiise 79  " 

From  the  hotels  to  the 

Suspension  Bridge. 2      milott 

Maid  of  the  Mist 2  " 

Whirlpool 3  " 

Devil's  Hole,  or  Bloody  Run 3)4  ** 

Indian  Village 9  ** 

Lewiston 7  ** 

Fort  Niagara 14  ** 

Number  steps  at  the  Ferry 290 

"      "     «    Whirlpool 85 

u  u      u     <i    Devil's  Hole 64 

"         **      «    Chasm  Tower 90 

Is  nine  miles  from  the  Falls,  American  side. 
There  is  nothing  here  that  has  the  shape  of  a  village. 
A  few  scattering  huts,  most  of  them  log-houses,  are 
all  that  can  be  seen.  A  ride  to  the  meetinir-house 
on  the  Sabbath  is  frequently  made — preaching  in 
English  by  a  missionary,  and  interpreted  into  the 


1| 


HEALTH  OF  THE  FALLS GAME. 


81 


Indian  language  by  the  cliief,  or  one  of  the  tribe. 
They  are  the  Tuscaroras,  formerly  from  Noith  Car- 
olina, once  a  powerful,  warlike  tribe,  but  are  dimin- 
ished awav  to  a  mere  handful.     Their  women  are 

ft' 

at  the  Falls  nearly  every  day  during  the  visiting  sea- 
son, and  are  very  ingenious  in  making  bead-work, 
which  they  offer  for  sale.  Charges  for  a  carriage  to 
the  village,  there  is  no  definite  price ;  generally  from 
three  to  four  dollars. 

ife^lll)  of  i()e  liill^. 

No  place  in  the  United  States  can  boast  of  a 
greater  degree  of  uninterrupted  health  than  the 
Falls.  Not  an  epidemic,  or  case  of  cholera  has  ever 
originated  here,  though  the  fell  destroyer  has  laid 
low  many  citizens  at  Buffalo,  Ton  aw  an ta,  Lockport 
and  Lewiston ;  yet  we  have  escaped.  This  is  attrib- 
utable, doubtless,  in  some  degree,  to  the  rapid  cur- 
rent of  the  river,  and  the  pure  and  exhilarating  state 
of  the  atmosphere.  Whatever  may  be  the  cause, 
uch  is  the  fact;  and  it  is  acknowledged  by  every 
one. 

Some  strangers  visit  the  Falls  with  all  the  imple- 
ments for  a  long  and  successful  chase  among  the 
buflalo,  bear  and  deer ;  but  notliing  of  the  kind  is 
found  in  our  woods,  though  they  might,  in  former 


I    I 


82 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


>a: 


ages,  hare  roamed  fearless  through  the  forest  here; 
but  now  they  are  all  gone  —  a  few  squirrels,  pheas- 
ants and  ducks  are  only  to  be  met  with.  Occasion- 
ally a  bald  eagle  is  seen  sailing  high  in  air,  whose 
eye  is  not  dimmed  by  the  noontide  blaze,  and  dart- 
ing its  fiery  look  upon  the  raidtitudes  who  congre- 
gate upon  the  banks  of  this  mighty  river,  and  with 
a  piercing  scream,  soaring  away  to  the  lands 
unknown. 

At  Fort  Schlosser,  two  and  a  half  miles  above  the 
Falls,  a  few  white  and  black  bass  are  taken,  and 
those  who  are  expert,  often  catch  the  pickerel  and 
the  pike,  and  considerable  quantities  of  different 
kinds  are  sometimes  taken  in  nets.  The  angler  is 
frequently  more  successful  below  Biddle  Staii's,  west' 
side  of  Goat  Island. 

2l  ^  i(  3  e  ii)  e  K)  f  3  • 

Nature  has  done  much  to  amuse,  art  but  little. 
A  ball-alley,  billiard-table,  cotillion  parties  ai*e  the 
principal. 

There  is  a  Presbyterian,  an  Episcopahac,  a 
Methodist,  a  Baptist  and  a  Catholic  church. 


;.l'i 


HOTELS INDIAN    CUUIOSITIES. 


83 


he; 
s- 
n- 
se 
i-t- 
re- 
ith 
ds 


if  of  Cl3. 
The  Cataract  House  is  considered  amonfr  the 
first  class  houses  in  the  United  States.  Falls  Hotel, 
St.  Lawrence  and  Niagara  House,  are  all  very  good, 
and  are  well  patronized  during  the  visiting  season. 
A  large  stone  building,  occupying  the  place  where 
the  celebrated  Mr.  Rathbun  commenced  about  six- 
teen years  since,  is  now  open  for  the  accommodation 
of  visitors. 

lK)Oiiio  Gi(IrIo3lfIe3. 

The  great  Indian  store  directly  opposite  the  Cat- 
aract House,  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  state.  At 
the  old  Curiosity  shop,  toll-gato  and  on  Goat  Island, 
are  also  large  assortments  of  Indian,  moose-hair, 
Quaker  and  other  kinds  of  work  for  sale. 


'       u 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

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23  WiST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  S72-4S03 


4 


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.      O^ 


CHAPTER  V. 

\  1^ece33io^  of  it)e  I^li^. 

Professor  Lyell  says :  — "  The  first  feature  whic] 
strikes  you  in  this  region  is  the  escarpment,  or  line 
of  inland  cliffs,  one  of  which  runs  to  a  great  distance 
east  from  Queenston.  On  the  Canada  side  it  has  a 
height  of  more  than  three  hundred  feet.  The  first 
question  which  occurs  when  we  consider  the  nature 
of  the  country,  is,  how  cliffs  were  produced ;  why  do 
we  so  suddenly  step  from  this  range  to  the  gypseous 
marls,  and  then  so  suddenly  to  the  subjacent  shale 
and  sandstone.  We  have  similar  lines  of  escarpment 
in  all  countries,  especially  where  the  rock  is  limestone ; 
and  they  are  considered  to  be  ancient  sea-cliffs,  which 
have  become  more  gentle  in  their  slope,  as  the 
country  has  emerged  from  the  ocean.  You  may 
perhaps  ask  if  the  Ontario  may  not  once  have  stood 
at  a  higher  level,  and  the  cliffs  been  produced  by  its 
action,  instead  of  that  of  the  ocean.  Some  of  you 
may  have  rode  along  the  ridge  road,  as  it  is  called, 
that  remarkable  bank  of  sand  which  exists  parallel, 
or  nearly  so,  to  the  present  borders  of  Lake  Ontario, 
at  a  considerable  height  above  it.  I  perfectly  agree 
with  the  general  opinion  respecting  this,  that  it  was 


I. 


RECESSION    OF    THE    FALLS. 


85 


the  ancient  boundary  of  Lake  Ontario.  In  somo 
pai-ts  of  it  fresh  water  shells  have  been  found.  You 
cannot  explain  the  escarpment  by  the  aid  of  the  ac- 
tion of  the  lake,  for  it  extends  farther  and  not  in  the 
same  direction.  When  the  land  emerged  gradually 
from  the  sea,  as  it  is  now  doing,  the  sea  w^ould  natu- 
rally create  those  sea-clifFs,  and  during  the  upheaval 
they  would  of  course  become  inland.  In  Europe, 
proofs  that  limestone  rocks  have  been  washed  away  are 
abundant.  In  Greece,  in  the  Morea,  this  is  especially 
conspicuous.  We  have  there  three  limestones  one 
above  the  other,  at  various  distances  from  the  sea. 
Along  the  line  you  may  see  literal  caves  worn  out 
by  the  action  of  the  waves.  The  action  of  the  salt 
spray,  which  has  also  effected  a  sort  of  chemical  de- 
composition, is  also  easily  to  be  observed.  So  com- 
pletely is  this  the  case  with  each  of  these  lines  that 
you  cannot  doubt  for  an  instant  that  here  is  a  series 
of  inland  cliffs;  and  this  phenomenon  being  so  cer- 
tain in  the  Morea,  leads  us  by  analogy  to  infer  that 
these  escarpments  of  the  district  were  produced  by 
a  similar  cause. 

It  is  not  disputed  that  there  is  some  change  going 
on  at  the  falls,  even  now.  There  occurs,  as  we  know, 
occasionally  a  falling  down  of  fragments  of  rock,  as 
may  be  seen  at  Goat  Island.  The  shale  at  the  bot- 
tom is  destroyed  in  consequence  of  the  action  of  the 
epray  and  frost ;  the  limestone  being  thus  undermined, 


86 


EVERT    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


falls  down ;  and  it  has  been  believed  that  in  this  way 
there  has  been  a  recession  of  about  fifty  yards  in 
about  forty  years ;  but  this  is  now  generally  admitted 
to  have  been  overstated.  There  is  at  least  a  probable 
recession  of  about  one  foot  every  year :  though  part 
of  the  fall  may  go  back  faster  than  this ;  yet  if  you 
regard  the  whole  river,  even  this  probably  will  be 
something  of  an  exaggeration.  Our  observations 
upon  this  point  are  necessarily  imperfect ;  and  when 
w^e  reflect  that  fifty  years  ago  the  country  was  per- 
fectly wild,  and  inhabited  by  bears,  wolves,  and  here 
and  there  a  hunter,  we  shall  think  it  surprising  that 
we  have  any  observations  at  all,  even  for  such  a 
period  back.  We  have  an  account  of  the  falls,  given 
by  Father  Hennepin,  a  French  Missionary,  who  gives 
an  exaggerated  description  of  them,  and  yet  one 
which  is  tolerably  correct.  He  represents  a  cascade 
as  falling  from  the  Canada  side  across  the  other  two. 
He  says  that  between  Lake  Erie  and  Lake  Ontario, 
there  is  a  vast  and  wonderful  waterfall ;  after  speaking 
of  this,  he  says  there  is  a  third  cascade  at  the  left  of 
the  other  two,  falling  from  west  to  east,  the  other 
falling  from  south  to  north.  He  several  times  alludes 
to  the  thi:  1  cascade,  which  he  says  was  smaller  than 
the  other  two.  Now,  those  who  consider  that  be- 
cause Father  Hennepin  gave  the  height  of  the  falls 
at  six  hundred  feet,  small  value  is  to  be  attached  to 
his  testimony  respecting  any  part  of  the  country,  do 


'i 


EECESSION    OF   THE    FALLS. 


87 


'\ 


him  injustice.  I  think  it  perfectly  evident  tliat  there 
must  have  been  such  a  third  cascade,  falhng  from 
west  to  east,  as  that  to  which  he  alhides. 

A  Danish  naturahst,  in  the  year  1750,  who  came 
to  this  country  and  visited  the  fiills,  of  which  he  has 
also  given  us  a  descrii:>tion,  which  was  published  in 
the  Gentleman's  Magazine,  in  1751,  also  gives  a  view 
of  the  Falls.  In  its  general  features  his  description 
agrees  well  with  that  of  Father  Hennepin.  He  went 
seventy-three  years  after  him,  and  there  was  then  ti(> 
third  cascade.  But  the  point  where  Father  Hennepin 
had  put  his  cascade,  he  had  marked,  and  says  that, 
"  that  is  the  place  where  the  water  was  forced  out  of 
its  direct  course  by  a  prodigious  rock,  which  turned 
the  w^ater  and  obliged  it  to  fall  across  the  falls."  He 
goes  on  to  say,  that  only  a  few  years  before,  there 
had  been  a  downfall  of  that  rock ;  which  was  un- 
doubtedly part  of  the  table  rock ;  and  after  that  the 
cascade  ceased  to  flow.  Now,  it  does  not  appear 
whether  he  had  ever  seen  Hennepin's  account  or  not, 
he  only  mentions  the  fact  that  there  had  been  a 
third  cascade ;  and  it  is  a  striking  confirmation  of 
the  accuracy  of  Father  Hennepin's  description.  We 
find  these  two  observers,  at  an  interval  of  seventy 
years  apart,  remarking  on  the  very  kind  of  change 
•which  w^e  now  remark  as  having  taken  place  within 
the  last  fifty  years;  an  undermining  of  the  rock,  and 
a  falling  down  of  the  limestone,  and  a  consequent 


88 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


obliteration  of  the  fall.  Every  one  wh^  has  vis- 
ited the  Falls,  on  inquiring  of  the  gui^les  about 
the  changes  that  have  taken  place,  may  have  been 
told  that  the  American  Fall  has  become  more  cres- 
cent shaped  than  it  was  thirty  years  ago,  when  it 
was  nearly  straight.  The  center  has  given  way,  and 
now  there  is  an  indentation  of  nearly  thirty  feet. 
The  Horse  Shoe  Fall  also  has  been  considerably  al- 
tered. It  is  not  of  so  regular  a  crescent  shape  as 
formerly,  but  has  a  more  jagged  outline,  especially 
near  Goat  Island ;  it  has  less  of  the  horse-shoe  shape, 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  than  when  it  was 
gi\'en.  It  is  quite  certain  that  things  there  are  not 
stationary;  and  the  great  question  is,  whether,  by 
this  action,  the  whole  Falls  have  been  reduced  in 
this  manner.  From  representations  made  by  other 
travelers,  I  was  desirous  of  ascertaining  whether 
fresh  water  remains  were  found  on  Goat  Island,  as 
had  been  said ;  for  it  would  be  striking,  if  on  this 
island  there  should  be  a  stratum  of  twenty-five  feet 
of  sand  and  loam,  pebbles  and  fresh  water  shells. 
They  were  found  there,  and  I  made  a  collection  of 
several  species  of  shells  found  on  the  island ;  among 
them  were  the  planorbis,  a  small  valvata  and  sev- 
eral other  kinds.  They  were  of  kinds  generally 
found  living  in  the  rapids,  in  the  river  above,  or  in 
the  lake. 

In  digging  a  naill-race  there,  only  a  few  yeara 


■' 


I 


RECESSION    OF   THE    FALLS. 


89 


Jet. 


fiince,  there  were  found  a  great  number  of  slicUs,  and 
also  a  tooth  of  a  mastodon,  some  twelve  or  thirteen 
feet  below  the  surface.  It  was  the  common  Ohio 
mastodon,  and  must  have  been  buried  beneath  these 
twelve  or  thirteen  feet  of  fresh  water  deposit,  ono 
layer  at  a  time,  each  containing  different  shells.  Jn 
answer  to  my  question,  whether  similar  shells  w^ere 
ever  found  lower  down  ?  the  guide  said  he  would 
take  me  to  a  place,  half  a  mile  below,  where  the 
strata  had  been  laid  open.  We  found  there  depos- 
ited in  the  rock  a  small  quantity  of  fresh  water  shells, 
showing  that  this  old  deposition  extended  down  to 
that  distance.  Here  we  have  proofs  that  the  river 
once  stood  at  a  higher  level,  and  in  a  tranquil  state ; 
and  there  is  every  appearance  of  the  rock  having 
been  like  a  solid  barrier  to  hold  the  waters  back  in 
a  lake-like  state,  so  that  they  might  throw  down 
those  fresh  water  deposits  at  that  height.  You  will, 
understand  this  better,  if  you  consider  that  if  the 
Falls  go  on  receding,  no  matter  at  what  rate,  —  an 
inch,  a  foot,  a  yard,  a  year,  —  in  the  course  of  time 
the  whole  must  recede  considerably  from  its  present 
condition.  What  proofs  should  we  have  of  tliis 
afterward  ?  You  will  easily  see  that  if  the  river 
should  cut  its  way  back  to  a  certain  point,  the  effect 
would  be  to  remove  the  rocky  barrier,  the  limestone 
of  the  rapids,  which  has  been  sufficient  to  pond  the 
river  back.     Sut  if  the  river  cuts  its  way  back,  this 


DO 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


barrier  could  no  longer  exist ;  the  channel  would  be 
deepened,  and  the  deposits  existing  high  and  dry 
upon  tlie  land,  would  become  proof  of  the  recession. 
This  kind  of  proof  we  have,  that  the  Falls  have  re- 
ceded three  miles  from  the  Whirlpool,  the  limestone 
having  been  higher  at  the  Whirlpool  than  the  river 
at  the  Falls.  It  may  be  well  to  say,  that  the  beds 
all  dip  to  the  south,  at  the  rate  of  about  twenty-five 
feet  in  a  mile.  In  seven  miles  the  dip  causes  a  gen- 
eral rise  of  the  platform  to  the  north,  so  that  when 
at  the  top  of  the  cliff,  you  are  at  a  greater  height 
than  the  level  of  Lake  Erie;  and  if  the  Falls  were 
formerly  at  Queenston,  their  height  was  probably 
near  double  what  they  now  are. 

Mr.  Hall  suo-rrested  that  at  that  time  the  whok 
fall  was  not  at  one  place,  and  I  think  it  quite  likely 
that  such  was  the  case.  There  is  reason  to  believe 
that  one  fall  was  upon  the  quartzose  sand  below, 
and  the  other  on  the  Protean  bed.  The  upper  part 
would  of  course  recede  faster  than  the  lower,  because 
it  is  softer,  as  is  seen  to  be  the  case  at  Ilochester; 
but  the  limestone  becoming  thicker  and  harder, 
would  recede  more  slowly.  There  may  have  been 
several  falls,  as  at  Rochester,  each  one  of  them  being 
less  high  than  at  present,  and  yet  the  whole  being 
nearly  double  its  present  height. 

I  told  you  that  the  river  fell  about  one  hundred 
.feet  between  the  base  of  the  Falls  and  Lewiston,  so 


RECESSION    OF    THE    FALLS. 


91 


that  the  bed  slopes  at  that  rate.  This  slope  of  the 
river,  and  then  the  upward  slope  of  the  platform, 
are  the  reasons  why  the  Falls  are  now  of  less  height 
tlian  formerly;  so  when  we  carry  ourselves  back  in 
imagination  to  the  time  when  the  river  had  not  re- 
ceded so  far,  we  have  a  barrier  of  limestone  much 
higher.  The  valley  in  which  the  river  then  flowed 
must  have  been  much  narrower  than  its  present  ra- 
vine. The  distance  now  from  the  Canada  to  the 
American  side  is  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
whereas  at  half  a  mile  below,  it  is  only  half  that 
distance. 

Farther  investigations,  by  tracing  the  fresh  water 
deposits  lower,  will  give  more  precise  information. 

You  might  suppose  that  if  we  find  the  remains 
of  a  mastodon  in  a  fresh  water  deposit  so  lately 
laid  dry,  as  that  near  the  village  of  Niagara,  and 
only  twelve  feet  below  the  surface,  the  mastodon 
has  lived  in  the  country  at  a  modern  period ;  you 
miofht  think  that  a  few  centuries  would  have  been 
sufficient  for  the  accumulation  of  twelve  feet  of 
shelly  sandstone  and  limestone,  and  that  it  may 
have  been  recently  that  this  mastodon  was  ;juried,l 
when  the  bai'rier  was  at  the  Whirlpool,  before  this 
twelve  feet  of  fluviatile  strata  were  deposited.  Yet 
these  strata  are  older  than  the  Whirlpool. 

Among  the  objections  to  the  supposition  that  the 
ravine  was  cut  out  by  the  Niagara,  one  is,  that  at 


9i! 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


the  place  called  tlie  Devil's  Hole,  or  the  Bloody  Run, 
the  ravine  must  have  been  cut  by  some  more  power- 
ful cause,  than  by  a  slight  stream. 

But  this  I  regard  as  no  objection  at  all,  for  on  ex- 
amining the  nature  of  the  soil,  (fee,  I  am  convinced 
that  even  the  small  stream  which  now  flows,  would 
have  been  perfectly  competent  to  cut  out  the  ravine, 
and  that  we  need  look  for  no  more  powerful  cause. 

Suppose  the  Falls  once  to  have  been  near  Queens- 
ton,  they  would  recede  differently  at  different  times ; 
faster  when  the  soft  shale  was  at  the  base,  at  other 
times  slowly,  when  the  hard  sandstone  was  to  be  cut 
through.  First  of  all  comes  the  quartzose  sand- 
stone for  a  certain  distance;  then  the  falls  recede 
slowly,  but  more  rapidly  when  it  came  to  the  soft 
shales.  Then  comes  the  sandstone  again  at  the 
base,  which  now  extends  to  the  Whirlpool,  and  here 
the  movement  was  slow.  It  probably  stood  for 
ages  at  the  Whirlpool.  Then  for  another  period  it 
receded  more  rapidly ;  and  it  is  probable  that  for 
the  last  mile,  its  recession  has  been  comparatively 
slow,  because  the  Protean  group,  and  about  twenty 
feet  of  sandstone,  making  about  fifty  feet  of  hard 
rock  at  the  base  were  to  be  cut  through.  It  is  cer- 
tain that  the  movement  now  is  at  a  faster  rate,  as 
the  shale  is  exposed.'^ 

The  above  reasoning  perfectly  coincides  with  the 
opinion  of  Dr.  Dwight,  and  others  who  have  devoted 


ar 

ai 
sa 


b( 
d^ 
te 
It 
lo 


NIAGARA. 


03 


any  time  to  the  subject,  and  strangers,  as  far  as  tlie 
author  has  been  enabled  to  learn,  have  come  to  the 
same  conclusion. 

Is  an  Indian  word,  from  Onyakarra,  supposed  to 
be  the  Iroquois  language,  as  they  were  the  first  who 
dwelt  here,  as  far  as  we  know.  The  meaning  of  the 
term  is  "mighty,  wonderful,"  thundering  water. 
It  lies  in  latitude  43  degrees,  6  minutes  north,  and 
longitude  2  degrees,  5  minutes  west  from  London.^ 


I     I 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Il)e  tipped  £j|lie3. 

We  will  now  invite  the  attention  of  tlie  traveler 
to  the  head  waters  of  the  Niagara  River. 

Lake  Superior  is  the  gi*eatest  body  of  fresh  water 
in  the  world.  It  is  near  the  north-west  boundary 
of  the  United  States.  A  small  river  flows  into  it 
from  the  noith,  fed  by  the  red  lakes  in  Canada. 

It  lies  between  4G  and  49  degrees  of  noith  lati- 
tude, and  between  84  and  03  degrees  of  west  longi- 
tude from  London. 

It  is  459  miles  long,  109  wide,  and  800  feet  deep. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Superior  are  the 
greatest  and  richest  copper  mines  in  the  world. 

The  following  are  the  principal  rivers  that  flow 
into  this  inland  sea:  Taquamenaw,  White  Fish, 
Two  Heart,  Prairie,  Chocolate,  Dead,  Garlic,  St. 
Johns,  Huron,  Keewitiwana,  Misery,  Fhnt  Steel, 
Octonagon,  Iron,  Camp,  Montreal,  Chippewa,  Wis- 
consin, and  several  smaller  ones,  making  forty-five 
small  and  three  large  rivers  that  empty  into  tliis 
lake.  On  the  Iron  river  are  peiioendicular  falls  of 
more  than  600  feet,  and  some  of  the  rivers  are  large, 
and  navigable  for  hundreds  of  miles.     The  outlet 


THE  UiTEIl  LAKES. 


95 


! 


of  Lake  Superior  is  tlie  Straits  of  St.  Mar}''s.  It  is 
J)5  niiles  long,  and  pours  its  waters  into  Lake  Huron. 
This  lake  is  218  miles  lung,  180  wide,  and  500  feet 
deep.  "The  boundary  lino  between  Canada  and  the 
United  States  passes  through  the  eenter  of  this  lake. 
Lake  Huron  receives  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan, 
through  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  Avhich  are  15 
miles  long,  and  10  broad.  The  following  are  some 
of  the  principal  rivers  that  empty  into  Lake  Huron : 
Saginaw,  Ausable,  Thunder  Bay,  Cheboygan,  Cass, 
Tiltibawasse,  and  severed  smaller  ones. 

Lake  Michigan  is  300  miles  long,  55  wide,  and 
200  feet  deep.  Some  of  the  principal  rivers  that 
empty  into  Lake  Michigan,  are :  the  Betseys,  Manis- 
ta,  Natipekago,  White,  Mashegon,  Grand,  Kalamazoo, 
St.  Josephs,  with  eight  smaller  liveiu  Green  Bay 
empties  into  Lake  Michigan,  on  the  north-west 
corner.  It  is  100  miles  long,  20  wide,  and  ^5  feet 
deep.  Green  Bay  receives  the  waters  of  Fox  River, 
which  is  the  outlet  of  Winnebago  Lake.  Menomo- 
nee,  Peshtigo,  Oconto,  and  several  streams  of  smaller 
size,  discharge  their  waters  into  this  Bay.  All  the 
waters  of  the  npper  Lakes,  the  \^onder  and  admira- 
tion of  the  world,  are  united  and  empty  into  the  St. 
Clair  River,  40  miles  long,  and  35  feet  deep.  St. 
Clair  River  discharges  its  w^aters  into  St.  Clair  Lake, 
which  is  about  95  miles  in  circumference.  The 
outlet  of  this  lake  is  the  River  Detroit,  27  miles  long, 


«i 


96 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


1  ■  • 
I 


and  twenty-five  feet  deep,  whicli  empties  into  Lake 
Erie,  which  is  three  hundred  and  ninety  miles  long, 
sixty-five  wide,  and  nine  hundred  feet  deep.  The 
Sandusky,  the  Grand,  the  Cuyahoga,  the  Maumee 
and  several  smaller  rivers  empty  into  Lake  Erie. 
Such  are  the  sources  of  Niao^ara  River  —  inferior 
for  splendor,  grandeur,  and  magnificence  to  none  on 
the  globe.  The  outlet  of  ten  lakes  and  more  than 
one  hundred  rivers,  it  drains,  from  both,  a  surface 
of  over  150,000  square  miles  of  water.  Lake  Erie 
is  three  hundred  and  thirty-nine  feet  higher  than 
Lake  Ontario,  (distance  thirty-six  miles,)  and  five 
hundred  and  sixty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean.  Nias^ara  River  falls  from  Lake  Erie  to  Goat 
Island,  (twenty-two  miles)  twenty-five  feet;  from 
the  head  of  Goat  Island  to  the  main  fall,  ( half  a 
mile)  fifty-two  feet;  perpendicular  heiglit  of  the 
Falls  on  the  American  side,  one  hundred  and  sixtv- 
four  feet;  on  the  Canada  side,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  eight;  from  the  Falls  to  the  Whirlpool,  (two 
and  a  half  miles)  sixty-four ;  from  the  Whirlpool  to 
Lake  Ontario,  (eleven  miles)  twenty-five;  total, 
three  hundred  and  thirty-nine.  We  will  now 
briefly  notice  some  of  the  most  important  places  we 
have  passed  from  the  head  waters  of  Lake  Superior 
to  the  Falls,  and  then  start  on  our  northern  tour. 

The  falls  of  St.  Marys  are  between  Lake  Superior 
and  Lake  Huron,  ofibring  great  hydraulic  power, 


I 


THE    UPPER   LAKES. 


97 


( 


which,  when  the  country  becomes  more  settled, 
must  be  extensively  used.  The  Straits  of  Mackinaw 
connect  Lake  Michigan  with  Lake  Huron.  It  is  a 
military  post.  The  Indians  assemble  here  once  a 
year  to  receive  their  annuity  from  the  United  States 
government. 

Detroit  is  eighteen  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  situ- 
ated on  a  river  of  the  same  name.  It  was  formerly 
a  military  post  of  the  French,  and  a  great  depot 
for  the  fur  trade.  It  is  now  the  seat  of  an  extensive 
commerce.  Population  20,000.  The  Michigan 
Central  Railroad  commences  at  Detroit  for  Chicago. 
Distance  two  hundred  and  sixty-eight  miles. 

Amherstburgh,  (Upper  Canada,)  generally  known 
by  the  name  of  Maiden,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Detroit  River,  where,  during  the  last  war,  a  very  se- 
vere engagement  between  the  British  and  Americans 
was  fought.  The  bones  of  seven  hundred  of  the 
bravest  sons  of  Kentucky  lay  bleaching  upon  the 
earth,  the  victims  of  the  most  wanton  perfidy ;  but 
the  British  paid  dearly  for  this  outrage,  at  the  battle 
of  the  Thames. 

Sandusky  is  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  on  a  bay  of  the 
same  name  near  the  head  of  Lake  Erie  —  a  thriv- 
ing, commercial  place.  Cars  leave  daily  for 
Cincinnati. 

Cleveland  is  handsomely  located,  and  has  great 
commercial  advantages  both  by  the  lake,  Ohio  and 
Erie  canal  and  the  Cincinnati  railroad.  o 


"i 


98  4j^  EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

Ashtabula,  (Ohio,)  has  a  tolerably  good  harbor, 
but  it  is  difficult  for  vessels  to  get  in,  in  time  of  a 
storm. 

Dunkirk,  (N".  Y.,)  of  necessity  must  be  a  place 
of  great  importance,  it  being  the  terminus  of  the 
New  York  and  Erie  Railroad  —  through  to  New 
York  in  eighteen  hours. 

Buffalo,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie  is  the  great 
commercial  emporium  of  western  New  York.  It 
has  no  rival  in  the  Empire  State.  The  capital  in- 
vested, the  enterprise  of  its  inhabitants,  the  amount 
of  business  done,  cannot  be  surpassed.  Several  of 
the  buildings  are  grand  specimens  of  architecture, 
and  would  do  credit  to  any  city  in  America.  Pop- 
ulation 50,000.  Seven  trains  of  cars  leave  daily 
(Sundays  excepted)  for  Albany,  Saratoga,  Boston, 
passing  through  Rochester,  Canandaigua,  Geneva, 
Auburn,  Syracuse,  Utica,  Schenectady,  &c. 

Distance  from    Chicago   (111.)   to    Buffalo,  via 

Michigan  Central  Railroad,  is  as  follows: 

From  Chicago  to  New  Buffalo 50  miles. 

'*     New  Buffalo  to  Detroit 218      " 

"     Detroit  to  Buffalo 250      " 

Black  Rock,  four  miles  from  Buffalo,  possesses 
advantages  from  its  hydraulic  power,  but  does  not 
appear  to  be  much  improved. 

ToNAWANtA,  eleven  miles  from  the  Falls.  The 
railroad  crosses  the  Tonawanta  creek  and  Erie  canal, 
at  this  place. 


i  harbor, 
ime  of  a 


a  place 

IS  of  the 
to  New 

the  great 
'ork.  It 
ipital  in- 
)  amount 
iveral  of 
litecture, 
a.  Pop- 
ive  daily 
Boston, 
Geneva, 

Falo,  via 

50  miles, 
218     " 
250     « 
possesses 

does  not 

Is.     The 
rie  canal, 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Having  accompanied  the  tourist  to  the  sources  of 
Niagara,  we  will  now  start  on  our  northern  tour  to 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  see  where  the  mighty 
river  empties.  But  before  we  leave,  we  will  count 
up  the  distances,  which  are  as.  follows:  (Canada 
side.) 

Niagara  Falls  to  Lewiston 9 —    9 

Lewiston  to  Toronto ;  steamboat 43 —  52 

Toronto  to  Port  Hope 65—117  • 

Port  Hope  to  Cobourg 7—124 

Cobourg  to  Kingston 1 10 — 234 

Kingston  to  Brockville 52—286 

Brockville  to  Ogdensburgh 12—298 

Ogdensburgb  to  Cornwall 50 — 348 

Cornwall  to  Coteau  du  Lac 4 1 — 389 

Coteaii  to  Cascades 14 — 430 

Cascades  to  Lachine -*.  -  24 — 427 

Lachine  to  Montreal 9 — 436 

Montreal  to  La  Prarie ;  steamboat 9 —  9 

La  Prarie  to  St.  Johns ;  railroad 15 — ^24 


100  EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

St.  Johns  to  Burlington  ;  steamboat 75 —  99 

Burlington  to  Whitehall 75—174 

Whitehall  to  Saiatoga ;  railroad 3G— 210 

Saratoga  to  Troy ;  railroad 31 — 241 

Or  from  Whitehall  to  Troy  ;  railroad G5 — 306 

Passengers  for  Lake  George  stop  at  Tieonderoga. 

Ticondcroga  to  Alexandria ;  stage 3 

Through  Lake  George  to  Caldwell ;  steamboat  36 

Caldwell  to  Saratoga  ;  stage 27 

Burlington  to  Boston  ;  railroad 212 

Troy  to  New  York  ;  steamboat 150 

Troy  to  Boston  ;  railroad 206 

By  the  Canadian  mail  line,  passengers  go  througli 
from  Niagara  Falls  to  Montreal,  in  thirty-six  hours, 
passing  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  the  River  St. 
Lawrence  by  daylight.  A  short  description  of  the 
places  we  pass  on  our  route  from  the  Falls*  to  Mon- 
treal, Lake  Champlain,  Saratoga,  (Sic,  will  now  be 
given. 

Lewiston  is  seven  miles  from  the  Falls,  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  Lake  Ontario.  This  place, 
together  whh.  Niagara  Villaofe,  Black  Rock  and  Buf- 
falo,  was  laid  in  ruins  in  the  war  of  1812-13. 
"There  can  be  little  doubt,"  says  Professor  Lyell, 
"that  the  mighty  cataract  of  Niagara  poured  its  im- 
mense volumes  of  water  here,  and  by  a  constant 
abrasion  has  receded  seven  miles." 

*  Three  trains  of  cars  leave  the  Falls  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) for  Buffalo  and  Albany.  Through  to  Albany  in 
fourteen  hours. 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


101 


-  99 
-174 
-210 
-241 
—306 

I. 
3 

36 

27 
212 
150 
206 

hrough 
i  hours, 
ver  St. 
I  of  the 
;o  Mon- 
tiow  be 

,  at  the 
3  place, 
id  Biif- 
112-13. 
'  Lyell, 
its  im- 
onstant 


hjs  ex- 
banj  in 


QuEENSTON  is  dircctlj  opposite  Lewiston,  at  the 
foot  of  the  heights  generally  known  as  the  "battle 
of  Queenston  Heights."  The  banks  below  the  vil- 
lage are  seventy  feet  higli ;  above,  two  hundred  and 
thirty.  The  river  is  six  hundred  feet  wide.  A  sus- 
pension bridge  is  now  completed  across  the  river, 
owned  by  a  joint  stock  company  of  Canadians  and 
Americans.  Dimensions:  ten  wire  cables;  distance 
between  towers,  1040  feet;  total  length  of  cables, 
1245;  length  of  road- way,  eight  hundred  and  forty- 
nine;  width,  twenty  feet;  it  is  estimated  to  bear 
eight  hundred  and  thirty-live  tons  without  breaking ; 
cost,  £12,000  or  $60,000. 

Brock's  Monument  is  on  Queenston  Heights, 
(Canada  side.)  Height,  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
six  feet,  and  from  top  to  the  level  of  Niagara  Eiver, 
three  hundred  and  ninety-six;  number  of  steps,  one 
hundred  and  seventy.  It  was  attempted  to  be 
blown  up  by  one  Lett,  a  Frenchman,  who  nearly 
lost  his  life,  by  this  savage  freak  of  revenge.  The 
followinor  memorial  is  inscribed  on  the  monument: 

"  The  legislature  of  Upper  Canada  has  dedicated 
this  monument  to  the  many  civil  and  military  ser- 
vices of  the  late  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  Knight,  Com- 
mander of  the  most  honorable  Order  of  the  Bath, 
Provincial  Lieutenant  Governor  and  Major  General, 
commandino;  his  Mniestv's  forces  therein.  He  fell 
in  action  on  the  13th  of  October,  1812,  honored 


I     i 


102 


EVERY    MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


and  beloved  by  those  whom  he  governed,  and  de- 
plored by  his  Sovereign,  to  whose  services  his  life 
had  been  devoted.  His  remains  are  deposited  in 
this  vault,  as  is  also  his  aid-de-camp,  Lieutenant 
Colonel  John  M'Donald,  who  died  of  his  wounds, 
the  14th  of  October,  1812,  received  the  day  before 
in  action." 

Fort  Niagara,  seven  miles  below,  (American 
side,)  stands  in  the  angle  made  by  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river  and  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Onta- 
rio. It  is  in  the  form  of  a  triangle :  one  side  com- 
mands the  river,  and  Fort  George  on  the  opposite 
bank ;  another  faces  the  lake ;  the  third  is  to  defend 
the  plain  in  the  rear.  From  the  light-house,  the 
view  of  the  lake  and  the  opposite  shore  is  only  hm- 
ited  by  the  power  of  the  human  vision.  Directly 
opposite  is  Fort  Massissaga;  a  little  above  is  old 
Fort  George ;  just  below  is  Newark,  burned  by  Gen- 
eral McClure  in  1813;  directly  across  the  lake  is 
the  city  of  Toronto;  to  the  west  is  Burlington 
Heights.  If  this  old  fort*  could  speak,  it  would 
tell  of  the  battles  fought,  the  victories  won,  and  a 
tale  of  intrigues  and  horror,  that,  even  at  this  re- 
moved distance,  thrills  even  the  stoutest  nerves.  It 
was  built  by  the  French,  1725;  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  British  by  the  conquest  of  Canada; 

*  This  is  the  place  where  the  celebrated  Mr.  Morgan 
(a  free  mason)  was  confined  after  his  abduction. 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


103 


md  de- 

his  life 

(sited  in 

511  tenant 

rounds, 

before 

raerican 
rn  bank 
:e  Onta- 
de  corn- 
opposite 

0  defend 
)use,  the 
mly  hm- 
Directly 
e  is  old 
by  Gen- 

1  lake  is 
rlington 
t  would 
I,  and  a 
this  re- 
ives. It 
nto  the 
Canada; 


Morgan 


surrendered  by  them  to  United  States,  1796;  taken 
and  burned  by  the  British,  1813;  and  surrendered 
again  to  the  Americans  on  the  restoration  of  peace. 
Fort  George,  or  Newark,  is  directly  opposite. 
The  village  was  burnt  during  the  last  war ;  which 
event  was  followed  by  the  burning  of  several  fron- 
tier villages  on  the  American  shore,  as  retaliatory. 
Fort  George,  near  the  village,  is  the  most  prominent, 
and  perhaps  the  only  object  of  interest  presented. 
It  is  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation,  and  has 
generally,  since  the  war,  been  occupied  as  a  garrison, 
by  a  small  number  of  British  soldiers. 

Toronto,  the  greatest  commercial  city  in  Upper 
Canada,  is  on  an  arm  of  Lake  Ontario,  thirty-six 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River.  It  aftbrds 
one  of  the  best  harboi-s  in  the  world ;  a  thousand 
ships  of  the  line  can  ride  here  in  perfect  safety. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  independent  militaiy  posts  in 
the  province.  Two  or  three  regiments  of  soldiers 
are  usually  stationed  here.  The  Parliament  House, 
the  governor's  residence,  and  many  other  buildings 
are  fine  specimens  of  architecture:  population 
30,000.  Daily  lines  of  steamboats  cross  to  Hamil- 
ton, Niagara,  and  down  the  lake  to  I^ngston,  Mon- 
treal &c.  The'  fii-st  place  the  boat  touches  at,  after 
leaving  Toronto,  is 

Port  hope,  sixty-five  miles.    It  is  a  small  town 
on  the  Canada  side,  situated  on  a  river  of  the  same 


I     I 


104 


£VERY   MAN   HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


name.  The  water-power  is  very  considerable.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  harbors  on  the  lake. 

CoBouRG  is  seven  miles  from  Port  Hope;  a  small 
place,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  call  it  a  seaport, 
for  nothing  of  the  kind  indicates  it;  population 
about  2000. 

A  steamer  runs  from  Toronto  to  the  mouth  of 
Genesee  River,  (American  side,)  and  touches  at 
Port  Hope  and  Cobourg.  The  width  of  the  lake 
at  this  point  is  eighty  miles. 

Kingston  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  mostly 
French.  It  is  near  the  outlet  of  Lake  Ontario,  one 
hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Cobourg,  and  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty-four  from  Niagara  Falls.  It  is  a 
strong,  and  one  of  the  most  important  military  posts 
in  Upper  Canada.  The  fort  commands  the  entire 
entrance  of  the  harboi's  and  the  navy-yard;  and 
next  to  Quebec  it  is  undoubtedly  the  most  impreg- 
nable fortress  in  North  America.  If  the  tourist  has 
time,  he  would  be  amply  repaid  for  spending  a  few 
hours,  or  a  di^y  here,  as  there  are  many  things  to 
interest  and  instruct.  The  fort,  navy-yard,  mess- 
house,  barracks,  <fec.,  can  all  be  viewed  by  applying 
to  the  sheriff,  or  commandant  of  the  station.  About 
six  miles  below  Kincfston  commences  the  Thousand 
Islands ;  the  largest  is  Long  Island,  thirty  miles  long. 
The  most  important  cascades  are  the  Lachine  Rapids, 
nine  miles  above  Montreal.     The  boat,  like  a  trained 


le.    It  is 


;  a  small 
I  seaport, 
^pulation 

louth  of 
uches  at 
the  lako 

J,  mostly 
;ario,  one 
two  hun- 

It  is  a 
ary  posts 
he  entire 
ird;  and 
impreg- 
•urist  has 
nsf  a  few 
hings  to 
d,  mess- 
applying 

About 
'housand 
iles  long. 
3  Rapids, 
1  trained 


.'i^i^^m^SiiSSisie^)i»9^-i'9i-^ 


THE  GENESEE  FALLS,  ROCHESTER. 

See  Page  133. 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


105 


war-horse,  enters  and  passes  through  them  like  an 
arrow  of  light ;  nothing  can  be  more  grand  and  ter- 
rific. The  angry  river  dashing  against  bare  rocks 
within  a  few  feet  of  you,  that  have  lifted  their 
frowning  heads  for  ages  above  the  enraged  waters, 
smiling  at  its  power,  and  bidding  defiance  to  its 
rage;  but  in  a  few  moments  you  are  at  the  dock  of 
Montreal.  Visitors  can  take  the  cars  at  Lachine  for 
Montreal  if  they  choose,  or  continue  on  board  the 
boat;  one,  in  our  opinion,  is  as  safe  as  the  other; 
fare  the  same. 

Wo  have  passed  so  rapidly,  we  had  not  time  even 
to  note  the  difierent  places;  between  Kingston  and 
Montreal,  are  Cananoque,  Brockville,  Prescott,  Wil- 
liamsburg, Cornwall,  Lancaster,  Coteau  du  Lac; 
all  small  places  of  not  much  note,  inhabited  by 
English,  Irish,  Scotch  and  Canadians.  .         ■.'.-> 

Is  on  an  island  thirty  miles  long  and  six  broad. 
It  presents  an  imposing  appearance;  it  hes  along  the 
St.  Lawrence  nearly  three  miles ;  a  heavy  wall  sur- 
rounded it,  but  was  thrown  down  by  authority  of 
government.  The  Hotel  Dieu,  is  a  huge  mass  of 
stone,  erected  in  1644;  about  thirty  nuns,  unier  the 
direction  of  a  superior,  reside  here;  acts  of  benefi- 
cence and  charity  occupy  their  time.  It  contains  a 
cathedral,  the  English  church,  seminary,  convent  of 


106 


EVERY    MAN    1118    OWN    GUIDE. 


Recollets,  and  the  sisters  of  Notre  Dame ;  the  gen- 
eral hospital,  convent  of  Gray  Nuns,  was  erected  in 
1758,  under  the  immediate  supervision  of  a  superior 
and  nineteen  nuns.  There  are  many  splendid  pub- 
lic buildings;  the  new  cathedral,  for  its  capacious- 
ness, style,  and  the  grandeur  of  its  decorations,  is  not 
surpassed  by  any  edifice  of  a  similar  character,  in 
America.  Nelson's  monument,  the  museum,  college, 
parade  ground,  are  all  objects  of  interest,  and  at- 
tract the  attention  of  the  visitor.  A  ride  round  the 
mountains  of  Montreal  is  most  delightful ;  they  are 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river, 
which  sweeps  its  angry  waters,  in  wild  and  tumult- 
uous fury  past  you.  The  tourist  can  visit  the  nun- 
neries, and  all  the  important  places,  by  having  a 
citizen  to  accompany  him,  or  procuring  a  pass  from 
the  chaplain  or  commandant  of  the  different  stations. 
The  principal  rapids  before  you  reach  Montreal,  are 
the  Longue  Sault,  the  Cedars,*  and  the  cascades  of 
St.  Louis;  they  are  nine  miles  in  length,  and  are 
passed  in  less  than  twenty  minutes,  (about  twenty- 
eight  miles  per  hour.) 

*  It  was  at  the  rapids  of  the  Cedars  that  General  Am- 
herst's brigade  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  men,  on  attempt- 
ing to  descend  in  boats,  for  the  purpose  of  invading 
Canada,  were  all  lost,  OAving  to  the  inexperience  and  bad 
management  of  the  pilot ;  not  a  soul  survived.  The  first 
intimation  the  citizens  of  Montreal  had  of  the  invasion,  was 
the  dead  bodies  floating  past  the  town. 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


107 


jd  in 
erior 
pub- 
ous- 
not 
r,  in 

at- 
1  the 
T  are 


We  will  now  invite  the  tourist  to  accompany  us 
to  Quebec;  distance  from  Montreal  is  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles.  Splendid  steamers  ply  between 
the  two  cities  twice  n  day.  If  we  take  the  evening 
boat,  which  leaves  immediately  on  the  arrival  of 
passengers  from  the  lake,  we  shall  arrive  at  Quebec 
about  seven  or  eight  ni  the  morning.  We  first  pass 
from  Montreal,  a  fort  on  St.  Ilclon's  Island ;  we  then 
enter  the  rapids  of  St.  Mary.  Verness,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  sixteen  miles  from  the 
city,  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort  on  account  of 
the  springs.  At  William  Henry,  or  the  Three  Rivei^s, 
one  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Montreal,  the  St. 
Lawrence  is  divided  by  two  small  islands  into  three 
branches,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice.  About 
fifteen  miles  up  this  river,  are  the  Falls  of  Shawen- 
negame,  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  per- 
pendicular descent.  Seven  miles  below  the  Three 
Rivei-s,  are  Richelieu  Rapids;  the  river  is  not  a 
mile  wide,  and  rushes  with  gi*eat  velocity. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  Gibraltar  of  Amer- 
ica. The  towers  and  lofty  spires  of  this  famed  city, 
situated  on  a  solid  rock  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high,  bursts  upon  the  view.  Cape  Diamond,  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Que- 
bec, Point  Levi  on  a  high,  precipitous  rock  to  the 
right — and  here  we  are  at  last. 


108 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


\l 


Q  i(  e  b  e  c 

Is  situated  on  a  high  point  of  land,  formed  by  the 
confluence  of  the   St.  Lawrence  and   St.  Charles. 
The  city  is  divided  into  two  portions,  called  the  up- 
per and  lower  towns.     The  upper  part,  the  impreg- 
nable fortress,  is  reached  by  five  gates ;  on  the  side 
toward  the  St.  Lawrence  there  is  only  one  way  to 
enter  the  city,  and  that  is  through  Prescott  gate; 
through  this  gate  the  commercial  transactions  of  the 
city  are  carried  on.     Palace  gate  leads  to  the  Ash- 
ley Barracks;    St.  Louis  gate  opens  to  the  plains 
of  Abraham,  where  Wolfe  and   Montgomery  fell. 
If  we  have  time  we  will  visit  the  catholic  church ;  it 
is  open  at  all  hours  of  the  day.     Among  the  pic- 
tures are,  the  Confession ;  the  apostle  Paul  in  his  ex- 
tatic  vision;   the  Saviour  ministered   unto  by  the 
angels;   the  flight  of  Joseph  and   Mary;   the  Re- 
deemer and  the  cross;  the  nativity  of  Christ;  the 
Saviour  outraged  by  the  soldiers ;  and  the  day  of 
Pentecost.     The  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  sixty-eight  feet  high,  with 
two  Latin  inscriptions,  has  its  attractions.     The  nun- 
nery and  church  occupy  a  space  of  eight  acres,  in- 
closed by  a  high  wall  of  stone ;  the  inmates  are,  one 
superior,   foi-ty-five    aspirants,   and    nine    novices; 
they  are  more  strict  than  any  other  convent  in  Can- 
ada.    Persons  of  high  distinction  only,  are  permitted 
to  ex&mine  the  domestic  arrangements  of  this  place ; 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


109 


the 


bu*  on  application  to  tlie  Chaplain,  strangers  gener- 
ally get  permission.  There  ai-e  the  paintings  of 
some  of  the  popes;  the  birth  of  Emmanuel;  the 
Saviour  showing  his  heart  to  the  religeuses;  the 
Saviour  takeii  down  from  the  cross;  a  cargo  of 
Christians  captured  by  the  Algerines;  Lewis  XIII., 
king  of  France. 

Chapel  of  the  Hotel  Dieu.  In  the  convent  the 
sisterhood  reside  —  one  superior,  thirty-five  religi- 
euses,  four  novices,  and  one  postulate  —  every  thing 
in  order.  But  we  must  not  dwell  long  here;  we 
have  other  scenes  to  visit,  then  hasten  back  to 
Montreal  and  Saratoga. 

Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  eight  miles  from 
Quebec  —  a  good  carriage-road  and  delightful  ride ; 
perpendicular  height  of  the  Falls  tw^o  hundred  and 
forty  feet ;  width,  one  hundred.  They  are  beautiful 
and  grand,  impressing  the  mind  with  sentiments  of 
awe  and  subhmity.  When  viewed  from  below, 
this  mighty  cascade  is  resplendent  with  all  that  can 
be  realized,  by  the  river  pouring  its  angry  waters, 
into  the  dark,  deep  and  gloomy  precipice.  No  part 
of  these  Falls,  however,  are  as  gi'and,  sublime  or  ter- 
rific, as  the  Center  Fall,  or  Cave  of  the  Winds  at 
Niagara ;  after  having  viewed  them  from  the  upper 
window  of  the  mill,  we  cross  the  bridge,  and  passing 
along  under  the  brow  of  a  high  hill,  we  are  sud- 
denly directly  in  front  of  the  whole  cataract.     Here, 


110 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  is  decidedly  the  best 
view  we  have  of  this  wonderful  fall.  From  the  top 
of  this  hill,  Quebec,  with  its  lofty  towers,  fortifica- 
tions, shipping,  the  St.  Lawrence  rolhng  toward  the 
ocean.  Point  Levi,  Angel  Garden,  and  many  other 
points  of  interest  are  to  be  seen.  Three  hundred 
and  sixty  miles  below  Quebec,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  the  river  is  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
miles  wide,  pouring  its  waters  into  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  (three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  and 
one  hundred  and  fifty  broad,)  by  three  different 
outlets. 

On  returning  to  Quebec,  we  will  pass  the  Lorette 
Lidian  Village  —  the  distance  is  about  the  same. 
We  will  now  step  on  board  the  morning  boat,  which 
will  land  us  in  Montreal  in  the  evenino:. 

The  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  considered  the  best  in 
the  city;  after  refreshment  and  sleep,  we  will  start 
in  the  morning  for  Saratoga.  The  distances  are  as 
follows : 

By  steamboat  from  Montreal  to 

La   Prairie 9 —    9 

By  railroad  to 

St.  Johns..." 14—23 

Isle  Aux  Noix 14 — 37 

PvQiise's  Point 10—47 

Clieecs? 13-60 


I 


iJORTHERN    TOUR.  Ill 

Plattsburg .15—  75 

Port  Kent.^ 15—  90 

Burlington 11—101 

Split  Kock 12—113 

Essex 2 — 115 

Batson  Jfarbor 12 — 127 

Crown   Point 12—139 

Ticondoroga 12 — 151 

Whitehall 15—166 

Saratoga 36—202 

At  La  Prairie,  nine  miles  from  Montreal,  we  leave 
tlie  steamboat,  and  step  aboard  the  cars  for  St.  Johns; 
distance,  fourteen  miles.  This  is  quite  a  thriving, 
but  a  small  place;  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  steam- 
boat navigation  on  the  northern  bounds  of  Lake 
Champlain ;  a  very  important  point  in  the  French 
and  revolutionary  wars;  population  about  1500. 

Lake  Champlain.  The  line  between  Vermont 
and  New  York  passes  through  the  center  of  this 
lake;  it  is  one  hundred  and  foi-ty-one  miles  long, 
and  fifteen  broad. 

At  Mount  Independence,  twenty-four  miles  from 
Whitehall,  there  is  scarcely  room  to  tui'n  the  boat, 
the  lake  being  narrowed  down  to  a  small  river. 
The  ruins  of  the  old  forts  at  Ticonderoga  and  Crown 
Point  are  distinctly  to  be  seen. 

Isle  Aux  Noix,  fourteen  miles  from  St.  Johns,  sh 
a  military  post,  has  alternately  been  in  the  possession 
of  the  French,  the  Eiighsh  and  the  riniei  icaiis.     As 


i 


t  : 

f,  i 


112  EVERY   MAN  HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

early  as  1775,  General  Schuyler  and  Montgomery 
passed  down  this  lake  to  St.  Johns,  on  a  flotilla  made 
of  logs. 

Rouse's  Point  is  on  the  outlet  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  ten  miles  from  Isle  Aux  Noix.  It  is  a 
strongly  fortified  place,  but,  according  to  an  agree- 
mei>*.  of  the  British  and  American  commissioners, 
to  establish  the  boundary  line  between  Maine  and 
Canada  this  place  belongs  to  the  British. 

It  is  forty  miles  from  House's  Point  to  Burlington ; 
here  are  two  railroad  routes  to  Boston :  the  northern 
passes  tl/rough  Mount  Pelica. 

Distance  from  Ogdensburg,  on  the  River  St. 
Lawrence  to  Boston,  ria  the  Wbii^e  MoucichrV,  ifii 
four  hundred  and  four  rv^v  iVj  ifoHcv's: 

By  railroad  to 

Rouse's   Point 118—11*    .. 

Essex  Junction ^ 47 — 16^ 

Westfield ...43—203 

White  River 42— 26P 

Concoid 69—329 

Manchester 17 — 346 

Nassau 18 — 364 

Lowell 15—379 

Boston 25—404 


\' 


unery 
made 

/ham- 
is  a 


NORTHERN   TOUR.  113 

Distmce  from  Ogdensburg,  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
to  Boston,  via  Burlington,  Rutland,  Bellows  Falls, 
&c.,  is  three  hundred  and  ninety-three  miles,  as 
follows : 

By  railroad  to 

Rouse's  Point 118—118 

Burlington 40 — 158 

Rutland 67—225 

Bellows  Falls 53—278 

Keene 22—300 

Ashburnham 32—332 

Fitcliberg 11—343 

Croton  Junction 15 — 358 

Boston 35—393 

On  the  northern  route  to  Boston  from  Burlington, 
travelers  w^ishinfj  to  visit  the  White  Mountains  leave 
at  the  White  River  Junction.  Daily  stages  run  to 
the  foot  of  the  White  Mountains;  distant  forty 
miles.  When  these  lofty  piles,  rearing  their  majes- 
tic heads  far  above  the  clouds,  first  burst  upon  the 
bewildered  gaze  of  the  traveler,  the  effect  is  perfectly 
overpowering;  he  feels  that  language  is  but  a  poor 
vehicle  to  convey  the  emotions  of  awe,  grandeur  and 
svd^limity  that  fill  his  soul,  and  he  sinks  back  upon 
himself  amid  the  immensity  of  God's  works.  There 
is  no  place,  perhaps,  where  the  mind  is  more  com- 
pletely bewildered,  in  endeavoring  to  grasp  at  tha 
illimitable  landscape  that  is  presented  to  his  view. 
They  are  the  loftiest  in  America  except  the  Rockj 
Mountains. 


)  t 


114  EVERY  MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDK* 

The  height  of  the  principal  peaks,  above  tho 
level  of  Connecticut  River,  has  been  estiimted 
by  engineers  as  follows: 

Mount  "Washington. 5352  feeti 

Mount  Adams 5384    " 

Mount  Jeflferson 5263    " 

Mount  Monroe 4934    ** 

Mount  Quincy 4471    *' 

From  the  top  of  Mount  Washington,  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  is  seen  in  all  its  boundless  majesty,  ilHmitable 
to  the  power  of  human  vision. 

Having  made  this  short  digi'ession  from  the  cor- 
rect route  to  Saratoga,  we  will  return  and  commence 
our  travels  from  Rouse's  Point. 

The  village  of  Plattsburg  is  on  the  west  side  of 
Lake  Champlain,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranao 
River,  twenty-seven  miles  from  Rouse's  Point.  It  is 
naemorable  for  the  celebrated  victories  achieved  in 
front  of  the  tower  between  the  British  and  American 
forces  both  on  land  and  water.  Commodore  Mc- 
Donough  and  Macomb,  (Americans,)  gained  a 
complete  triumph  over  George  Provost  and  Com- 
modore Downie,  (British,)  in  the  war  of  1812.  The 
Americans  were  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  awaited, 
in  awful  suspense,  the  anival  of  the  British  fleets 
which  sooon  hove  in  sight.  On  the  morning  of  the 
11th  of  September,  1814,  the  roar  of  a  single  can- 
non came  booming  tver  the  watei*s;  this  was  the 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


115 


eicmal  for  a  c^eiieral  attack  on  land  and  water,  and 
the  tieets  were  soon  commingled  in  sad,  terrific  strife. 
The  number  of  British  engaged  under  Sir  George 
Provost  was  14,000;  of  the  Americans  under 
General  Macomb,  only  3000;  but,  Spartan-like, 
every  American  was  determined  to  die  by  his  colors, 
rather  than  surrender,  and  the  stripes  and  the  stars 
waved  in  triumph  over  the  heads  of  the  free  and 
the  brave.  The  loss  of  the  British  was  2500  men, 
besides  baggage  and  ammunition ;  that  of  the  Amer- 
icans considerably  less. 

Burlington,  as  a  diverging  point  of  the  rail- 
roads, is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  twenty-five  miles  southerly  from  Plattsburg. 
This  is  a  fine  New  England  village  which  has  its 
attractions  to  the  visitor  seeing  it  for  the  first  time. 
From  Burlington  to  WJiitehall  is  seventy-five  miles — 
the  terminus  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  south- 
ern point  of  Lake  Champlain,  seventy-three  miles 
north  of  Albany.  From  Whitehall  to  Saratoga, 
(railroad,)  thirty-nine  miles.  Visitors  wishing  to  pass 
through  Lake  George,  on  their  way  to  the  Springs, 
stop  at  Ticonderoga;  this  route  will  be  described  in^ 
another  place;  at  present ^^e  will  pursue  our  coui*se 
direct;  cars  leave  Whitehall  every  morning  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Lake  Champlain  boats,  and  reach 
Sai'atoga  Springs  in  time  for  dinner. 


!   • 


Eli 


:| 


116  EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

The  intermediate  points  and  distances  are  as 
follows: 

From  Whitehall  to 

Fort  Ann 11—11 

Sandy  Hill 10—21 

Fortville 7—28 

Milton 4—32 

Saratoga 7—39 

Saratoga  Springs.  This  place  of  fashionable 
resort,  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  has  attained  great 
celebrity  from  the  medicinal  properties  of  its  waters. 
They  lie  in  43  degrees  10  minutes  north  latitude, 
and  13^  degrees  west  longitude  from  Washington, 
on  a  line  directly  east  from  Niagara  Falls.  The 
Springs  immediately  in  the  vicinity  of  Saratoga,  are 
twelve  in  number;  those  most  frequented  are  the 
Congress,  the  Iodine  or  Waltien,  Putnam's  Congress, 
the  Monroe,  the  Hamilton,  the  Flat  Rock,  the  High 
Rock,  the  Columbian  and  the  Washington.  A  new 
spring,  possessing,  it  is  said,  great  medicinal  proper- 
ties, was  discovered  in  1839;  it  is  of  a  brackish 
taste,  and  not  as  pleasant  as  many  others.  The  ten 
Springs  are  a  httle  north  of  the  village,  and  are 
justly  celebrated,  and  a  place  of  great  resort.  Con- 
gress Spring  was  first  discovered  in  1702,  though  the 
Indians  knew,  and  held  them  in  high  venei-ation, 
long  before  the  white  man  marked  the  soil.  It  is 
at  the  south  end  of  the  village ;  it  was  seen  issuuig 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


117 


from  the  crevice  of  a  rock  about  fifteen  feet  from  its 
present  location.  Here  it  boiled  up,  and  its  waters, 
sparkling  in  the  sunbeam,  continued  to  flow,  until  art 
began  to  lay  its  plastic  hand  upon  the  works  of  na- 
ture, in  the  shape  of  improvements;  the  spring  re- 
tired back  upon  its  fountain,  and  nearly  ceased  to 
flow ;  but  collecting  its  energies,  it  soon  broke  out 
again  near  where  it  is  now.  There  is  a  deep  tube 
sunk  into  this  spring,  fifteen  feet  long,  which  eflect- 
ually  screens  it  from  sand,  sediment  and  fresh  water 
that  might  be  oozing  through  the  rocks.  Doctor 
Steel,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  chemists  of  the 
age,  says,  "a  gallon  of  water  which  he  analyzed, 
contained  the  following  substances:  viz,  chloride  of 
sodium,  three  hundred  and  eighty-five  grains;  hy- 
driodate  of  soda,  thirty-one  and  a  half  grains;  bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  nearly  nine  grains;  bicarbonate 
of  magnesia,  nearly  ninety-six  grains ;  carbonate  of 
lime,  a  little  more  than  ninety-eight  grains ;  carbo- 
nate of  iron,  upwards  of  ^ve  grains:  silex,  one  and 
a  half  grains;  carbonic  acid  gas,  three  hundred  and 
eleven  cubic  inches;  atmospheric  air,  seven  cubic 
inches."  Perhaps  there  is  no  spot  on  the  globe 
where  we  can  see  a  greater  diversity  of  character, 
than  at  the  Congress  Spring;  the  halt,  the  gay,  the 
giddy,  the  blind,  the  aged,  the  decrepit   and  the 

inor 


beautiful  are  crowdino:  on  to  this 
to  be  healed  from  all  their  infi 


Siloam 
rmities,  or 


,  expect 
gratify  the 


118 


EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


(.1.. 


eye  Vy  seeing  the  fashion  of  the  four  quarters  of 
the  globe.  Very  few  persons,  I  think,  relish  this 
water  when  first  tasted,  but  habit  familiarizes,  and 
we  soon  become  fond  of  it.  The  Iodine  was  dis- 
corered  in  1838,  near  the  High  Rock  Spring.  The 
water  is  remarkably  pure,  sparkling  and  pungent, 
but  has  much  less  of  iron.  Professor  Emerson  says, 
**  one  gallon  of  this  water  contains  muriate  of  soda, 
one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  grains;  carbonate  of 
lime,  twenty-six  grains ;  carbonate  of  iron,  one  grain ; 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  seventy-five  grains;  carbo- 
nate of  soda,  two  grains;  hydriodate  of  soda,  or 
iodine,  three  and  a  half  grains;  carbonic  acid  gas, 
three  hundred  and  thirty  cubic  inches;  atmospheric 
air,  four  inches.  Though  this  spring  has  not  been 
much  visited  until  of  late,  yet  it  bids  fair  to  equal 
many  of  its  neighbors,  and  doubtless  will  hold  a 
high  rank  among  the  fountains  of  health.  A  few 
rods  from  this  is  a  very  strong  sulphur  spring,  which 
is  used  extensively  in  some  cases.  Putnam's  Con- 
gress is  near  the  Hamilton  Spring.  Here  its  heal- 
ing waters  flowed  for  years  unnoticed,  but  it  is  now 
popular  and  much  frequented. 

The  High  Rock  Spring  is  nearly  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  north  of  the  Congress.  The  rock  out  of 
which  this  spring  boils  is  a  curiosity;  nine  feet 
diameter,  five  high.  The  particles  of  sand,  formed 
by  some  chemical  process,  were  once  raised  by  the 


M'f 


■  !  'if! 


NORTHERN  TOUR, 


119 


I 


action  of  the  water  below,  and  instantly  fli  ver,  ovp' 
the  top.  The  aperture  is  nine  inches,  'i  he  watt:  • 
does  not  flow  over  the  summit  as  formerly,  but  rises 
within  two  feet  of  the  top.  This  may  be  attributa- 
ble to  the  fact,  that  it  has  found  a  passage  between 
the  decayed  rock,  and  the  loose  earth  out  of  which 
it  was  formed. 

Between  the  Iodine  in  the  upper  village,  and  the 
"Washington  in  the  lower,  are  most  of  the  mineral 
springs  in  which  this  place  abounds.  No  chemist,  as 
yet,  has  been  enabled  to  discover  the  causes  which 
have  produced  these  wonderful  results.  Some  say 
it  is  the  result  ot  some  **  great  laboratory,"  but  where 
this  mighty  workshop  is,  or  what  is  its  process  of 
working,  is  a  mystery.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  en- 
large upon  the  many  and  convenient  bathing-houses 
erected  at  nearly  all  these  springs,  for  the  conven- 
ience and  health  of  the  visitor.  It  is  said  by  those 
whose  opinion  is  entitled  to  respect,  that  the  prop- 
erties of  the  waters,  botji  of  Saratoga  and  Ballston 
Spa,  are  nearly  the  same,  varying  only  as  to  the 
quantities  of  the  different  articles  held  in  solution. 
They  are  called  by  the  chemists  acidulous  saline,  and 
acidulous  chalybeate;  of  the  former,  are  the  Con- 
gress, Iodine,  Monroe,  Putnam's  Conoress,  the  Ham- 
ilton and  High  Rock  at  Saratoga ;  and  of  the  latter, 
are  the  Columbian,  Flat  Eock,  and  Washington  at 
Saratoga,  and  the  Old  Spring,  and  Sans  Souci  at 


120 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


Ballston.  The  waters,  all  to  a  greater  or  less  extent, 
contain  muriate  of  soda,  hydriodate  of  s<jda,  carbo- 
nate of  sodii,  carbonate  of  lime,  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia, oxide  of  iron,  and  some  of  them  a  small 
quantity  of  silica  and  alumina.  Great  quantities  of 
carbonic  acid  gas  are  contained  in  them,  giving  to 
them  their  spai'kling  and  lively  appearance. 

The  late  Doctor  Steel,  in  his  geological  report  of 
the  county  of  Saratoga,  published  a  few  years  since, 
says,  that  "the  temperature  of  the  waters,  in  all  these 
wells,  is  nearly  the  same,  ranging  from  48  to  53  de* 
grees  on  Fahrenheit's  scale ;  and  they  sufter  no  sensi- 
ble alteration  from  any  variation  in  the  temperature 
of  the  atmosphere;  neither  do  the  variations  of  the 
seasons  appear  to  have  much  effect  on  the  quantity 
of  water  produced. 

"The  waters  are  remarkably  limpid,  and  when 
first  dipped,  sparkle  with  all  the  life  of  goo  cham- 
pagne. The  saline  waters  bear  bottling  very  well, 
particularly  the  Congress,  immense  quantities  of 
which  are  put  up  in  this  way,  and  transported  to 
various  parts  of  the  world ;  not,  however,  without  a 
considerable  loss  of  its  gaseous  property,  which  ren- 
ders its  tiiste  much  more  insipid  than  when  drank 
at  the  well.  The  chalybeate  water  is  also  put  up 
in  bottles  for  transportation,  but  a  very  trifling  loss  of 
its  gas  produces  an  immediate  precipitation  of  its 
iron ;  and  hence  this  w^ter,  when  it  has  been  bottled 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


121 


ent, 
rbo- 


lag- 


for  some  time,  frequently  becomes  turbid,  and 
finally  loses  ewiry  trace  of  ion ;  this  substance  fixing 
itself  to  the  >valls  of  the  bottle. 

*'The  most  })rominent  and  perceptible  effects  of 
these  waters,  when  tjiken  into  tlie  stomach,  are  ca- 
thartic, diuretic  and  tonic.  They  are  much  used  in 
a  great  vari  ty  of  complaints;  but  the  diseases  in 
which  they  are  most  eflicacious  are  jaundice  and 
bilious  affections  generally,  dyspepsia,  habitual  cos- 
tiveness,  hypochondriacal  complaints,  depraved  ap- 
petite, calculous  and  enphritic  complaints,  phagedenic 
or  ill-conditioned  ulcers,  cutaneous  eruptions,  chronic 
rheumatism,  some  species  or  s/«ites  of  gout,  some 
species  of  dropsy,  scrofula,  paralysis|  scorbutic  affec- 
tions and  old  scorbutic  ulcers,  amenorrhea,  dysme- 
norrhea and  clorosis.  In  phthisis,  and  indeed  all 
other  pulmonary  afi'ections  arising  from  primary 
diseases  of  the  lungs,  the  waters  are  manifestly  in- 
jurious, and  evidently  tend  to  increase  the  violence 
of  the  disease. 

"Much  interest  has  been  excited  on  the  subject 
of  the  source  of  these  singular  waters;  but  no  re- 
searches have  as  yet  unfolded  the  mystery.  Tlie 
large  proportion  of  Csomraon  salt  found  among  their 
constituent  properties  may  be  accounted  for,  without 
much  difficulty  —  all  .he  salt  springs  of  Europe,  as 
well  as  those  of  America,  being  found  in  geological 

situations  exactly  corresponding  to  these;  but  the 

11 


122 


EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


production  of  the  unexampled  quantity  of  carbonic 
acid  gas,  the  medium  through  which  the  other  ar- 
t'eles  are  held  in  soUition,  is  yet,  and  probably  will 
remain  a  subject  of  mere  speculation.  The  low  and 
regular  temperature  of  the  water  seems  to  forbid  the 
idea  that  it  is  the  effect  of  subterranean  heat,  a3 
many  have  supposed,  and  the  total  absence  of  any 
mineral  acid,  excepting  the  muriatic,  which  is  com- 
bined with  soda,  does  away  the  possibility  of  it8 
being  the  effect  of  any  combination  of  that  kind. 
Its  production  is  therefore  truly  unaccountable." 

It  would  be-  unnecessary,  perhaps,  to  enter  into 
detail  of  the  public  houses ;  the  visitor  will  at  once 
see  that  they  are  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  United 
States.  Among  the  principal  are  the  Congress  Hall, 
Union  Hall,  Pavilion,  United  States.  Among  the 
boarding  houses,  on  a  less  extensive  .scale,  are  the 
Adelphi,  Columbian  Hotel,  Washington  Hall,  Rail- 
road House,  Prospect  Hall,  Highland  Hall.  Price  of 
board  at  the  first  class  houses  is  from  four  to  twelve 
and  fifteen  dollars  per  week. 

Amusements.  Fishing  in  a  small  pond  about  two 
miles  from  the, village  is  resorted  to  by  some;  trout 
in  considerable  quantities  are  taken.  Others  prefer 
a  sail  on  the  lake  four  miles  from  the  Springs; 
nine  miles  long,  three  broad.  Sail-boats  of  every 
description,  are  fitted  up  in  good  style  for  parties  of 
pleasure.     Bern  us'  Heights,  eight   miles  from   the 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


12a 


lake,  will  ever  be  sacrod  in  the  memory  of  Ameri- 
cans, as  the  place  where  General  Burgoyne  surren- 
dered his  entire  force  to  General  Gates,  in  the 
revolutionary  contest,  October  l7th,  1777.  The 
two  actions  that  preceded  this  surrender  were  fought 
on  the  1 9th  of  September  of  the  same  year. 

Cotillion  parties,  in  all  the  large  houses  at  Sara- 
toga, are  attended  almost  every  night.  Elegant 
carriages  will  convey  parties  to  any  point  of  interest, 
at  a  moderate  price. 

It  is  now  time  to  return  to  Lake  George.  Some 
of  our  party  we  left  at  Ticonderoga;  perhaps  we 
may  meet  them.  Lake  George  is  twenty-five  miles 
from  Saratoga.  The  water  of  this  lake  is  remarkably 
transparent,  and  it  is  said  that  a  sixpence  can  be 
seen  at  a  depth  of  twenty  feet.  The  Catholics,  we 
are  told,  carry  these  waters  to  all  parts  of  the  world, 
for  religious  purposes.  The  waters  of  Lake  George 
are  discharged  into  Lake  Champlain,  at  Ticonderoga, 
by  a  small  river,  which,  in  two  miles,  falls  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet.  Large  quantities  of  most  excellent 
fish  are  taken  from  its  waters;  such  as  trout,  bass, 
&c.  It  is  dotted  with  small  islands,  comporting  in 
number,  it  is  believed  by  some,  with  the  days  of  the 
year.  Diamond  Island  once  contained  a  fortificatioh. 
There  is  a  beautiful  summer-house  on  Tea  Island, 
for  the  amusement  of  parties  of  pleasure,  which  is 
seen  from  the  head  of  the  lake ;  the  best  view  of  the 


•    I 


124 


EVERl    MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


lake,  in  our  opinion,  is  near  the  remains  of  old  Fort 
George.  Here,  General  Burgoyne  made  a  depot  of 
Lis  military  stores  for  some  time  in  the  revolution- 
ary war.  Here  are  our  friends  we  left  at  Ticonder- 
oga  about  a  week  since.  They  have  enjoyed  fine 
sport  upon  the  watei-s  of  this  limpid  lake.  There  is 
a  small,  but  very  neat  steamer  which  plies  daily  from 
the  head  of  Lake  George,  (Caldwell,)  to  the  foot, 
connecting  with  the  steamers  on  Lake  Champlain. 
From  where  the  boat  lands  to  Ticonderoga  is  three 
miles.  Carriages  are  always  in  readiness.  The 
boat  returns  every  evening.  Length  of  the  lake  is 
thiity-six  miles.  Fourteen  miles  from  Caldwell,  is 
Tongue  Mountain.  The  Narrows  commence  here ; 
about  seven  miles  long,  one  and  a  half  miles  Avide. 
Five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  line  have  been  let 
down  without  finding  bottom.  Black  Mountain, 
half  way  down  the  lake,  is  on  the  east  side.  It  is 
ascertained  bv  actual  measurement  to  be  2200  feet 
high.  A  short  distance  from  this  is  an  exhibition  of 
mountain  scenery,  unsur]iassed  on  this  continent.  The 
rolhng  appearance  of  the  mountain  —  the  deep  and 
almost  impenetrable  caverns  that  yawn  out  before 
you  at  every  step ;  the  wild,  the  beautiful  and  ter- 
rific grandeur  of  the  whole  place,  combine  to  fill  the 
mind  with  solemn  awe  and  admiration.  Solitude 
holds  her  empire  here,  undisturbed  by  the  convul- 
sions that  agitate  the  world ;  the  fall  of  empires  or 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


125 


the  ruin  of  kimvdoms  is  alike  unlieeded  and  im- 
known.  Sabbath-day  Point  is  twenty-four  miles 
fi'oni  the  head  of  the  lake,  on  the  west  side.  Dur- 
ing the  French  war,  about  tln-ee  hundred  and  fifty 
English  landed  here  on  Sabbath  morning.  They 
were  instantly  surrounded  by  the  Indians  and  every 
soul  to  a  man,  })erished  by  the  tomahawk  and  scalp- 
ing knife — hence  the  name.  In  three  miles  we 
pass  a  small  island  called  the  Scotch  Bonnet ;  three 
and  a  half  miles  below,  on  the  west  shore,  w^e  ap- 
proach the  city  of  Hague,  composed  of  tw^o  houses 
and  a  saw-mill ;  this  is  the  widest  part  of  the  lake, 
viz.,  four  miles.  Rogers'  Slide  -is  three  miles  further 
down ;  here.  Colonel  liogei-s,  an  inveterate  foe  to  the 
Indians  in  the  French  war,  was  forced  by  the 
savages,  in  the  winter,  over  a  smooth  rock  two  hun- 
dred feet  high,  on  an  angle  of  thirty  degrees.  He 
slid  down  with  the  velocity  of  light,  and  landed 
safely  on  the  ice  below.  Anthony's  Kose  opposite, 
by  drawing  a  little  on  the  imagination,  will  be  found 
similar  to  one  of  the  same  name  on  the  Hudson. 
Prisoners'  Island  is  two  miles  further;  prisoners 
w^ere  confined  here  during  the  French  war.  Lord 
Howe's  Point  is  directly  west;  lie  landed  upon  this 
spot  but  a  short  time  before  the  battle  at  Ticonde- 
roga,  at  which  he  was  killed.  He  was  brother  to 
Loi-d  Howe,  who  commanded  the  Biitish  forces  at 
Philadelphia,  in  tlie  revolutionary  war.     One  mile 


126 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


further,  and  tlie  boat  stops ;  here  is  the  landing  and 
outlet  of  Lake  George.  Three  miles  from  the 
landing  is 

TicoNDEROGA,  the  far-famed  place,  memorable 
for  its  thousand  daring  exploits,  and  bold  achieve- 
ments. Mount  Independence,  with  its  ruins,  is  here. 
Mount  Defiance,  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
looks  down  in  frowning  contempt  upon  the  world 
below.  Here  General  Burgoyne  lodged  his  artillery 
in  1777,  and  here  the  Americans  were  compelled 
to  evacuate  Ticonderoga.  Many  of  the  old  walls, 
though  mouldering  in  gloomy  silence,  are  still  to  be 
seen ;  the  magazines  of  this  old  fort  are  nearly  en- 
tire ;  the  walls,  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of 
Lake  Champlain,  are  still  standing.  A  subterra- 
neous passage  leads  from  the  south-west  corner  of 
the  fort,  about  thirty  rods  long,  through  which  the 
celebrated  Colonel  Allen  made  his  way,  and  took  a 
.  British  officer  while  in  bed ;  when  asked  by  what 
authority  he  did  it,  he  replied,  "by  the  authority  of 
the  great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress." 

There  are  several  old  foi-ts  and  fortifications  in 
this  vicinity  still  to  be  seen ;  the  walls  of  one  near 
the  lake  are  sixty  feet  high.  As  early  as  1758, 
General  Abercrombie,  wuth  two  thousand  men,  at- 
tacked Ticonderoga  with  great  skill  and  bravery, 
but  was  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  his  entire  army. 
The  French  abandoned  this  position  to  the  English 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


127 


and 
the 


5 


in  1759.  Colonel  Ethan  Allen,  whose  indomitable 
courage  has  never  been  surpassed  since  the  days  of 
Rome,  took  Ticonderoga  by  storm  in  1775.  In 
1777  it  was  abandoned.  Geneml  Burgoyne  pur- 
sued the  American  force  as  far  as  Whitehall  and  to 
Fort  Ann,  which  soon  resulted  in  the  surrender  of 
his  entire  army  to  General  Gates — one  of  the  most 
glorious  epochs  in  the  revolutionary  struggle,  giving 
to  the  colonies  a  foothold,  a  permanence  and  a 
standing,  which  never  for  a  moment  has  been  shaken. 
The  banner  was  thrown  to  the  breeze,  and  waves 
in  triumph  over  the  heads  of  the  free  and  the 
brave. 

We  must  now  leave  our  friends  and  return  to  the 
Falls  to  accompany  another  party  via  Lake  Ontario, 
(American  side.)  We  prefer  the  route  from  Sara- 
toga, via  Auburn,  Geneva,  Canandaigua,  Batavia* 
Buffalo,  &c.,  because  it  is  the  most  expeditious. 
Distance  from  the  Spi-ings  to  the  Falls  by  cam  is 
three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  miles.  By  this 
route  we  reach  Niagara  in  twenty-two  houi-s.  As 
we  pass  we  notice  Ballston  Spa,  seven  miles  from 
Saratoga ;  the  waters,  according  to  Doctor  Steel,  are 
nearly  similar  to  those  of  Saratoga.  The  first 
spring  discovered  is  in  a  valley,  surrounded  by  sand- 
hills, on  a  branch  of  Kayaderoseras  creek,  inclosed 
by  an  iron  railing;  New  Washington  Spring  is  but 
a  few  rods  distant;  the  Sans  Souci  Spring  is  the 


128 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


most  frequented.  The  Washington  Fountain  flowed 
over  the  surface  for  many  years,  but  in  1821  disap- 
peared entirely.  Low's  Spring,  Park  Spring,  and 
several  others  in  the  neighborhood,  were  much  vis- 
ited in  former  years,  but  latterly  are  measurably 
deserted. 

Schenectady,  fourteen  miles  from  Albany,  and 
twenty-two  from  Saratoga,  lies  on  the  Mohawk 
River.  It  was  destroyed  by  the  Indians  in  1690^ 
and  nearly  all  of  its  inhabitants  perished  by  the 
tomahawk ;  Union  college  is  well  endowed ;  popula- 
tion, VOOO. 

Amsterdam,  sixteen  miles  west,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Mohawk;  the  Erie  Canal  passes  through 
this  viilnge.  Fond.'i,  ten  miles  from  Amsterdam,  is 
a  small  place.  Johnstown,  four  miles  north,  was  the 
former  residence  of  Sir  William  Johnson. 

Palatine  Bridge,  eleven  miles,  crosses  the  Mo- 
hawk to  Canajoharie ;  cai-s  leave  the  latter  place  for 
the  Catskill  Mountains. 

P^'oRT  Plain,  three  miles  further,  was  originally 
settled  by  Germans,  who,  hke  their  neighbors,  suf- 
feiod  much  in  the  revolutionary  war. 

LiT-LK  Falls,  seventeen  miles  further;  the  Erie 
canal  and  Buffalo  railroad,  at  an  immense  expense, 
pass  the  south  part  of  the  village;  a  place  of  consid- 
erable commerce  from  the  Erie  canal  and  its  hydraulic 
power.     The  mountain  scenery  is  grand  and  sublime. 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


129 


Herkimer  is  seven  miles  from  Little  Falls,  on  the 
West  Canada  creek,  on  which  the  far-famed  Trenton 
Falls  are  situated.  The  creek  enters  the  Mohawk 
about  half  a  mile  west  of  the  village. 

Utica,  fourteen  miles  from  Herkimer  and  fifteen 
from  Trenton  Falls,  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Mohawk.  No  city  in  the  interior  of  New  York 
possesses  greater  facilities  for  commerce  than  Utica. 
It  is  located  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schuyler ;  pop- 
ulation 15,000;  its  long  line  of  canal- boats,  together 
with  the  seven  trains  of  cars  that  pass  through  the 
place  from  the  west,  render  it  a  place  of  great 
importance. 

Trenton  Falls,  as  has  been  remarked,  are  fifteen 
miles  from  Utica;  thev  are  on  the  West  Canada 
creek,  twenty-two  miles  from  its  confluence  with 
the  Mohawk  River  at  Herkimer.  Visitors  usually 
prefer  taking  carriages  at  Utica;  going  and  return- 
ing will  occupy  nearly  a  day.  There  is  no  such 
terrific  grandeur  and  awful  sublimity  here  as  at  Ni- 
agara; yet  they  are  beautiful,  and  in  many  respects 
sublime ;  their  effect  upon  the  mind  of  the  beholder 
is  deeply  impressive,  and  he  long  retains  the  vivid 
impressions  enstamped  upon  his  memory.  The 
tourist  ought,  by  all  means,  to  visit  them;  they 
must  be  seen  before  they  can  be  appreciated. 

The  fall  of  the  rapids  for  two  miles  before  it  en- 
ters the  basin  is  sixtv-six  feet;  depth  of  the  ravine, 
11^        "  ^  » 


I  I 


130 


EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


i'  V 


one  hundred:  width  of  ravine  at  the  top,  two 
hundred;  depth  of  creek  below  the  Falls,  one  hun- 
dred. A  dark,  heavy  forest  hangs  in  moody  silence 
over  the  ravine,  shutting  out  the  view  until  you 
reach  the  very  verge.  The  falls  are  six  in  number, 
as  follows :  first,  the  one  on  the  Black  River  road ; 
second,  the  upper,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  below  the 
cascades;  third,  the  mill-dam;  fci^rth,  the  High 
Fall;  fifth,  Sherman's;  sixth,  Canard's.  Descent  of 
Falls:  upper,  twenty  feet;  cascades,  with  two  pitches 
and  rapids,  nineteen  feet;  the  mill-dam,  the  second 
within  the  ravine,  fourteen  feet;  width  of  stream  at 
the  top,  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet.  Of  the  high 
falls  there  are  three.  Descent  of  first,  forty-eight 
feet;  second,  eleven  feet;  third,  thirty-seven  feet. 
These  three,  including  the  rapids  above,  make  a  de- 
scent of  one  hundred  ten  and  one-half  feet.  Sher- 
man's Fall  descends  thirty-three  when  the  creek  is 
low,  and  thirty-seven  and  thirty-nine  when  high; 
this,  unlike  Niagara,  rises  when  the  rains  fall,  but  is 
subject  to  fall  many  feet  in  droughts;  the  height 
of  Canard's  Fall  is  six  feet.  The  entire  descent  of 
the  falls,  rapids  included,  is  estimated  to  be  three 
hundred  and  eighty -seven  feet,  in  less  than  four  and 
one-half  miles. 

The  best  time  to  visit  the  Falls  is  in  July  or  Au 
gust,  or  when  the  water  is  low ;  you  can  then  pass 
round  Sherman's  Stairway  with  perfect  safety  to  the 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


131 


head  of  tho  race-way.  At  the  hotel  there  are  two 
paths:  one  leading  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  the 
other  to  the  High  Falls;  the  former  is  generally 
preferred.  At  the  foot  of  the  stairway  pass  up  tho 
stream;  then  by  a  narrow  pathway  to  Sherman's 
Falls ;  in  a  few  moments  you  reach  the  High  Fall. 
From  these  falls  to  the  upper  end  of  the  race-way, 
above  the  cascades,  the  way  is  easy  when  the  stream 
is  low ;  but  from  thence  upward  is  more  difficult. 
Petrifactions  and  organic  remains  may  be  found  im- 
bedded in  the  rocks  in  the  ravine.  They  lie  flat  in 
the  laminae;  "their  contours,"  says  a  celebrated  ge- 
ologist, "and  component  parts,  usually  being  httle 
distorted  from  their  original  shape  and  dimensions. 
Sometimes  there  is  a  defect  occasioned  in  their  tran- 
sition from  the  animal  to  the  stony  or  fossil  state ; 
but,  in  most  instances,  all  their  parts  are  so  com- 
pletely defined  that  not  only  the  order,  but  the  genera 
and  species  may  be  recognized.  Their  exteriors  are 
commonly  glossy,  often  very  smooth,  and  ordinarily 
of  a  dark  color,  being  transformed  into  stone,  and 
constitute  integral  parts  of  the  rocks  which  envelop 
them.  To  any  one  who  has  devoted  any  time  to 
the  subject,  it  will  appear  that  their  prototypes 
lived  and  died  on  the  spot,  and  that  the  rocks  in 
which  they  are  entombed,  are  of  subsequent  forma- 
tion. A  word  to  the  ladies  before  we  leave :  good 
calf-skin   boots  or  shoes  are  decidedly  preferable, 


132 


EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


both  as  to  health  and  for  convenience ;  the  finest 
pair  of  cloth  shoes  would  be  ruined  in  a  single 
excursion  over  these  rocks.     We  now  return  to  Utica. 

On  our  way  west,  the  first  place  we  will  notice  is 
Syracuse,  fifty-three  miles.  Perhaps  there  are  no 
works  on  the  globe,  where  as  much  salt  is  manufac- 
tured as  in  the  vicinity  of  Syracuse  and  Salina. 
Four  hundred  and  fifty  acres  are  covered  with  vats 
for  solar  evaporation ;  the  roofs  drawn  over  and  re- 
moved at  pleasure.  Three  times  in  the  summer  the 
salt  is  taken  out  and  barreled  for  market ;  forty  gal- 
lons make  more  than  a  bushel  of  pure  salt.  There 
are  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  works  for  boiling 
within  five  or  six  miles.  The  state  of  New  York 
owns  the  entire  works,  which  yield  a  great  revenue. 
The  Springs  will  last,  probably,  while  the  world 
stands.  Nearly  three  millions  of  bnshels  are  manu- 
factured yearly.  From  Syracuse  to  Oswego,  on  Lake 
Ontario,  is  thirty-five  miles,  by  railroad;  here 
steamers  take  passengers  down  the  lake  to  Montreal, 
or  up  to  Lewifiton,  seven  miles  from  Niagara;  but 
we  will  keep  the  railroad  to  the  Falls,  via  Buftalo. 

Auburn  is  twenty-six  miles  from  Syracuse.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Owasco  creek,  and  affords  great  hy- 
draulic power,  which  is  extensively  used.  The  state 
prison  is  the  best  regulated  institution  of  the  kind  in 
the  United  States.  The  average  number  of  yearly 
convicts  is   between    seven,  and    eight    hundred; 


KORTHERN   TOUR. 


133 


population,  10,000.  The  best  time  to  see  the  pris- 
oners is  before  breakfast;  one  of  the  keepers  will 
accompany  you  for  a  mere  trifle. 

The  next  place  of  much  importance  is  Geneva, 
twenty-three  miles  from  Auburn,  situated  on  the 
north  end  of  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  thirty-seven 
miles  long,  and  about  four  wide;  salmon  trout  are 
taken  from  its  waters;  it  never  freezes. 

It  was  upon  the  waters  of  this  lake,  that  the  cele- 
brated Jemima  Wilkinson  (who  pretended  she  was 
the  Saviour,)  made  her  followers  believe  she  could 
walk  on  the  water  if  they  had  faith.  She  stepped 
from  her  carriage  into  the  element,  about  ankle  deep ; 
then  turning  suddenly  to  the  multitude  she  again 
inquired  if  they  had  faith  that  she  could  pass  over. 
They  answered  in  the  affirmative.  She  immediately 
returned  to  her  carriage,  declaring,  "as  they  believed 
in  her  power,  it  was  unnecessary  to  display  it ; "  thus 
ended  the  farce.  Travelers  from  the  west  frequently 
take  a  steamboat  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  thirty- 
seven  miles,  connecting  with  the  New  York  and 
Erie  Railroad. 

Canandaigua  is  sixteen  miles  from  Geneva,  on 
an  outlet  of  the  Canandaigua  Lake.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  beautifully  located  villages  in  the  state. 

Rochester,  twenty-eight  miles  farther  west,  lies 
on  both  sides  of  the  Genesee  River.  The  Erie 
canal  and   Buffalo  railroad  cross  the  river  at  this 


134  EVERY   MAN   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 

place,  on  the  most  substantial  works  in  America. 
There  are  twenty-five  flouring  mills  in  the  city,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  run  of  stones,  making  5500 
barrels  of  flour,  and  consuming  22,000  bushels  of 
wheat  in  every  twenty-four  hours.  There  are  six 
falls  in  the  river,  the  highest  of  which,  just  below 
the  bridge,  is  ninety-seven  feet  perpendicular.  The 
celebrated  Sam  Patch,  after  he  had  made  two  suc- 
cessful jumps  at  Niagara,  took  his  last  and  fatal 
leap  here  in  1829.  Two  and  a  half  miles  below 
the  city,  travelers  can  take  steamers  for  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  or  down  the  lake  to  Montreal,  <fec.  A  rail- 
road is  nearly  completed  in  a  direct  line  to  Niagara, 
crossing  the  river  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  above 
one  of  the  maddest  streams  on  the  globe.  Buffalo 
has  been  mentioned  in  another  place. 

If  our  friends  are  ready,  we  will  now  start  for 
our  northern  tour  to  Montreal,  via  Lake  Ontario* 
(American  side,)  commencing  at  Fort  Niagara, 
at  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River,  fourteen  miles  below 
the  Falls;  intermediate  places  and  distances  have 
already  been  described. 

From  Fort  Niagara  to 

Rochester 80 —  80 

Oswego 63—143 

Sacketl's  Harbor 44—187 

Kingston  ( Canada) 40 — 227 

Brockville 52—279 

Ogdeueburg 12—291 


^ 


\\\ 


NORTHERN   TOtJR.  136 

Cornwall 50—341 

Coteaudu  Lac 41—382 

Cascades 14—396 

Lachine 24—420 

I        Montreal 9—429 

i  • 

The  first  place  tlie  boat  touches  at  after  leaving 

Fort  Niagara  is  Charlottesville,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Genesee  River,  seventy-four  miles.  It  is  a  port 
of  entry;  has  a  light-house.  Government  has  ex- 
pended a  good  deal  of  money  to  improve  the  navi- 
gation. The  river  is  navigable  four  miles  further,  to 
Carthage,  thence  two  miles  to  Rochester.  Pa<«seii- 
gers  are  conveyed  to  the  city  by  railroad  carriages 
without  delay. 

Great  Sodus  Bay  is  twenty-eight  miles  from 
Oswego.  This  bay,  with  its  coves  and  points,  is 
about  fifteen  miles  in  circumference. 

Oswego  is  sixty-three  miles  from  Rochester,  and 
is  quite  an  important  place.  Cars  leave  Oswogo  for 
Syracuse  every  day,  on  the  arrival  of  the  lake  boats ; 
distance,  thirty-five  miles. 

Sackett's  Harbor  is  forty-four  miles  from 
Oswego.  The  government  made  great  efibrts  to  put 
this  place  in  a  state  of  defense  during  the  last  war. 
The  barracks  are  still  standing;  two  forts  are  nearly 
in  ruins.  A  large  ship  of  war  was  commenced,  but 
the  materials  have  decaved,  and  it  never  can  be 
finished. 


:'f[  ijt 


m 


136 


EVERY   MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 


s. 


Cape  Yincent,  twenty  miles  from  Sackett's  Har- 
bor. Kingston,  in  Upper  Canada,  is  on  tlie  oppo- 
site side  of  the  lake;  Grand  Island  between; 
Morristown,  fifty  miles  fui-ther.  The  river  here  is 
one  and  a  quarter  miles  wide ;  opposite,  on  the  Can- 
ada side,  is  Brockville.  t 

Ogdensburg,  American  side,  is  twelve  miles  fur- 
ther, on  the  Oswegatcliie  River;  a  fine,  flourishing 
village;  cai-s,  on  the  arrival  of  the  boats,  leave  for 
House's  Point  on  Lake  Champlain;  distance,  one 
hu'idred  and  eighteen  miles;  from  Rouse's  Point  to 
Burlington,  forty.  At  Burlington,  on  the  east  side 
of  Lake  Champlain,  there  are  two  railroad  routes  to 
Boston,  which  have  already  been  described.  Boats 
down  tlie  river  from  Ogdensburg,  generally  pass 
over  to  Prescott.  There  is  also  an  express  line  of 
steamers  from  Lewiston  through  the  center  of  the 
lake  to  Montreal.  The  route  to  Boston,  as  mentioned 
in  another  place,  commences  at  Burlington,  in  the 
state  of  Vermont,  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain. Montpelier  is  the  capital  of  the  state,  thirty- 
eight  miles  from  Burlington.  Lofty  mountains, 
lifting  their  bleak  and  towering  heads  to  the  clouds, 
surround  the  city  on  all  sides.  It  contains  three 
thousand  inhabitants,  who  are  enterprising,  indus- 
trious and  happy.  It  was  at  this  place  that  the 
Green  Mountain  Boys  rendevoused,  who  were  so  an- 
noying, and  fought  Burgoyne  with  such  indomitable 


NORTHERN  TOUR.  137 

courage.  Ticonderoga,  and  the  gi'een  hills  of  Ver- 
mont will  forever  ring  the  praises  of  those  hardy 
sons. 

From  Burlington  to  Concord,  the  capital  of  S'ew 
Hampshire,  is  two  hundred  and  two  miles.  It  lies 
on  the  Merrimack  River,  which  is  navigable  for 
large  boats  to  Chelmsford. 

From  Concord  to  Lowell  is  forty-eight  miles. 
It  is  on  the  Merrimack  River.  Perhaps  there  is  no 
place  on  the  globe,  none  in  the  United  States  cer- 
tainly, where  there  is  as  much  capital  invested  in 
manufactures  as  at  Lowell.  The  following  gives 
some  idea  of  the  business  done :  amount  of  capital, 
$10,000,000 

Kumber  of  factories 32 

**        "  epindles  in  constant  use 100,000 

**        **  looms 4000 

Operators  employed 5000 

Males 1£00 

Females 3800 

Quantity  of  new  cotton  used  annually 85,000,000  lbs. 

Number  of  bales 25,000 

•'         "    yards  manufactured 29,000,000 

If  the  yards  manufactured  in  one  year,  were  all 
united,  they  would  reach  16,400  miles. 

From  Lowell  to  Boston  is  twenty-five  miles. 


>  Ji 


138  EVERY  MAN   HIS   OWN   GUIDE. 

The  southern  route  from  Burlington  to  Boston, 
via  Rutland,  Bellow's  Falls,  &C.,  is  as  follows : 

From  Burlington  to 

Rutland 67 

Bellow's  Falls 53 

Keene '. 22 

Ashburnham 32 

Fitchburg 11 

Croton  Junction 15 

Boston 35 

Rutland  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains, three  miles  distant.  It  is  not  surpassed  for 
beauty  of  location  by  any  village  in  the  state. 

Bellow's  Falls  lies  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  River ;  the  length  of  the  rapids  is  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile ;  descent  of  the  river  in  this 
distance,  fifty  feet;  at  the  toll-bridge  is  the  best 
view ;  the  waters  rush  under  the  bridge  with  great 
power,  in  their  wildest  fury. 

Keene  is  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in  New 
England;  from  this  point,  Boston  is  soon  reached. 

Is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  on  a 
peninsula  two  miles  long  and  one  broad.  It  derived 
its  name  from  a  clergyman  who  emigrated  from 
Boston,  England.  The  monument  on  Bunker  Hill, 
to  perpetuate  the  memory  and  heroic  vii-tues  of  the 


NORTHERN    TOUR. 


139 


dead,  is  fifty  feet  diameter,  two  hundred  and  t\^enty 
higli.  When  completed,  it  will  outvie  in  splendor, 
any  of  a  similar  character  on  this  continent.  The 
corner-stone  was  laid  June  15th,  1825;  the  Marquis 
de  Lafayette  assisted  in  the  ceremonies.  The 
number  of  British  ennrafred  in  the  action  of  Bunker 
Hill  was  estimated  at  3000;  Americans,  1500. 
The  British  lost,  in  killed  and  wounded,  1050;  tlie 
Americans,  four  hundred  and  fifty.  Here  General 
Warren,  the  scholar,  the  gentleman,  fell  in  the  com- 
mencement of  the  action.  The  harbor  is  spacious 
and  commanding;  the  entrance  is  exceedingly  nar- 
row, scarcely  admitting  two  ships  abreast.  It  is  so 
strongly  fortified,  that  any  hostile  ship  in  attempt- 
ing iu  land,  would  be  blown  out  of  the  w^ater; 

popui  1.,  100,000. 

Boston  will  be  retained  in  the  recollections  of 
Americans,  while  virtue,  liberty  and  patriotism  re- 
main. The  hallowed  associations,  that  linger  around 
this  sacred  spot — the  glittering  steel  of  England's 
best  sons,  as  they  marched  with  a  firm  and  steady 
tread  to  the  attack  on  Bunker  Hill ;  the  flames  of 
Charlestown,  as  they  rolled  in  red  sui'ges  to  the  sky;  1 
the  awfid  stillness  of  the  heroic  band  in  the  little 
fort  precursory  to  the  coming  storm;  the  heights 
crowded  with  anxious  spectators,  witnessing  in  breath- 
less silence  the  doubtful  contest;   the  memory  of 


140 


EVERT    MAJT   HIS    OWN    GUIDE. 


i  \ 

i 


those  who  fell,  more  durable  than  the  monumenta 
of  brass  or  marble;  the  roar  of  the  artillei-y  from 
the  baj  —  all  united  to  make  it  a  scene  awfully  grand 
and  territic,  impossible  for  the  most  vivid  imagination 
to  portray.  The  British  were  permitted  to  approach 
within  less  than  a  hundred  yards  of  the  fort ;  not  a 
shot  from  the  Americans,  not  a  muscle  moved — the 
silence  of  death  held  its  empire  over  the  little  for- 
tress; but  in  an  instant  the  storm  burst;  flash  suc- 
ceeding flash,  the  iron  tempest  sweeps;  heaping 
man,  horse  and  car,  in  one  undistinguished  ruin; 
twice,  the  peals  of  musketry  and  the  saber's  clash 
drove  the  enemy  back ;  but  at  last  they  succeeded 
in  gaining  the  heights,  after  the  ammunition  was  all 
exhausted,  and  the  cry  rang  through  the  fort, 
"powder!  powder!  a  world  for  powder ! " 

We  close  our  remarks  by  an  extract  from  the 
speech  of  Hon.  Daniel  Webster,  on  the  erection  of 
the  monument. 


I 


^i{lf*j)ose3  of  il)e  ^VFo^iiliieof  oi]  St(i]l(elr  ifiil. 

"Let  it  not  be  supposed  that  our  object  is  to  per- 
petuate national  hostility,  or  even  to  cherish  a  mere 
military  spirit.  It  is  higher,  purer,  nobler.  We 
consecrate  our  work  co  the  spirit  of  National  Inde- 
pendence, and  we  wish  that  the  light  of  peace  may 
rest  upon  it  forever.     We  rear  a  memorial  of  our 


*):\ 


NORTHERN   TOUR. 


141 


conviction  of  that  unmeasured  benefit  ^^bicll  hris 
been  conferred  on  our  land,  and  of  the  ba|)[)y  influ- 
ences wliich  have  been  produced  by  the  same  events, 
on  the  general  interests  of  mankind.  We  coine,  as 
Americans,  to  mark  a  spot  which  must  be  forever 
dear  to  us  and  posterity.  We  wish,  that  whosoever, 
in  all  coming  time,  shall  turn  his  eye  hither,  may 
behold  that  the  place  is  not  undistinguished  where 
the  first  great  battle  of  the  revolution  was  fought. 
We  wish,  that  this  structure  may  proclaim  the  mag- 
nitude and  importance  of  that  event  to  every  class 
and  every  age.  We  wish,  that  infancy  may  learn 
the  purpose  of  its  erection  from  maternal  lips,  and 
withered  age  may  behold  it,  and  be  solaced  by  the 
recollections  which  it  suggests.  We  wish,  that  labor 
may  look  up  here,  and  be  proud  in  the  midst  of  its 
toil.  We  wish,  that,  in  those  days  of  disaster,  which, 
as  they  come  upon  all  nations,  must  be  expected  to 
come  upon  tis  also,  desponding  patriotism  may  turn 
its  eye  hither,  and  be  assured  that  the  foundations 
of  our  national  power  still  stand  strong.  We  wish, 
that  this  column,  rising  toward  heaven  among  the 
pointed  spires  of  so  many  temples  dedicated  to  God, 
may  contribute  also  to  produce,  in  all  minds,  a  pious 
feeling  of  dependence  and  gratitude.  We  wish, 
finally,  that  the  iast  object  on  the  sight  of  him  who 
leaves  his  native  shore,  and  the  first  to  gladden  his 


:;  ■ 


r 


U2 


EVERY   MAN    HIS    OWN   GUIDE. 


who  revisits  it,  may  be  sometliing  wliicli  shall  re- 
mind him  of  the  liberty  and  glory  of  his  country. 
Let  it  rise,  till  it  meets  the  sun  in  his  coming ;  let 
the  earliest  light  of  morning  gild  it,  and  parting 
day  linger  and  play  upon  its  summit." 


flbel'i)  oj)  fl)e  Hog. 

On  the  morning  of  July  19th,  1853,  a  great 
excitement  was  created  by  the  discovery  of  a  man 
on  a  log  in  the  rapids,  midway  between  the  main 
shore  and  Bath  Island,  and  about  forty  yards  below 
the  bridge  which  leads  to  the  toll-gate  on  the  island. 
The  circumstances  as  near  as  are  known  of  the 
way  he  got  there,  are  these:  This  man,  Avery, 
and  another  man,  they  being  in  the  employ 
of  Mr.  Brown,  boating  sand  above  the  Falls 
about  two  miles,  got  into  a  boat  at  ten  o'clock  at 
night  to  take  a  pleasure  sail.  The  next  morning 
Mr.  Averv  was  discovered  on  the  I02:  tibove  men- 
tioned,  which  being  reported,  called  thousands  of 
people  to  the  spot  to  see  the  unfortunate  man,  and 
to  do  what  thev  could  to  rescue  him.  In  the  first 
place  a  small  boat  was  let  down,  but  it  filled  with 
water,  and  sunk  before  it  reached  him.  By  this 
time  a  life-boat  from  Buffldo  had  reached  the  spot, 
and  was  lowered  into  the  stream,  which  reached  the 


AVERY   ON    THE    LOG. 


143 


shall  re- 
country, 
ling;  let 
parting 


a  great 
)f  a  man 
the  main 
ds  below 
le  island. 
1  of  the 
,  Avery, 

employ 
Ihe  Ffdls 
'clock  at 
morning 
ove  men- 
sands  of 
nan,  and 

the  first 
lied  with 

By  this 

the  spot, 
iched  the 


log  he  was  on,  passed  by  above  it,  capsized  and 
sunk,  which  was  the  last  of  that.  The  next,  a 
small  boat  was  let  down,  which  reached  the  spot 
all  right,  but  the  rope  got  entangled  under  the  log, 
and  could  not  be  got  loose,  so  that  boat  was  use- 
less. Another  plan  was  tried :  a  raft  was  let  down 
to  him  all  right,  and  he  got  on  it,  and  the  raft  was 
moved  toward  Bath  Island  as  far  as  it  could  be,  for 
the  ropes  got  entangled  in  the  rocks,  and  stuck  fast. 
Then  another  boat  was  let  down  to  him,  to  take  him 
from  the  raft ;  but  as  the  boat  reached  the  raft,  the 
water  dashed  the  boat  against  the  bow  of  the  raft, 
which  gave  it  a  sudden  jog,  and  Avery  not  using 
the  means  that  wore  prepared  for  his  safety,  viz., 
ropes  for  him  to  hold  on  to,  or  tie  himself  with, 
stood  erect  on  the  stern  of  the  raft ;  and  as  the  boat 
struck,  he  fell  off  backward,  and  the  rapid  water 
carried  him  over  the  Falls,  at  about  six  o'clock  P. 
M.,  at  which  time  the  crowd,  (being  about  three 
thousand  in  number,)  left  the  spot  with  slow  and 
solemn  steps  for  their  homes,  to  think  and  talk  of 
what  had  transpired. 


! 


144 


TA»LB   OP   DISTANCES. 


S 


1  i 


TAUIiC  OF  DISTANCES 

ON  THE 

GREAT  WESTERN  RAIL  ROAD, 

CANADA. 


From  Niagara  Falls  to 
DETROIT. 

PL  ACS.  MILES 

Niagara  Falls---- 

Thun)l(1 9 

St.  Catharine's 11 

Bearnsville 2'2 

Grimsbv 27 

Stoney  Creek 37 

Hamilton 43 

i)uiidas 4D 

Flam  borough 52 

Fairchild's 62 

Paris 72 

Piinceton 79 

Wood-tock 91 

BeuchvilJG 9(5 

IngersoU-. lOO 

Dorchester 109 

London n^ 

Loho. 129 

Ekfrid 139 

"Wardsville 155 

Chatham 183 

Baptinte  Creek 197 

Wjrj'sor 229 

Detroit 33o 


From  Detroit  to 
NIAGARA    FALLS. 

PLACE.  MILES 

Detr  it 

Windsor  

Ba|)tihte  Creek 32 

Chatham 4G 

Wardsville 74 

Ekfrid 90 

Lobo 100 

London n^ 

D.  ichester 120 

IngersoU 1*29 

Beachville 133 

Woodstock 138 

Princeton 150 

Paris 157 

Fairchild's 167 

Fhiniborough 177 

Dundjis 180 

Hamilton iH6 

IStoney  'Jreek 192 

(Grimsby 2U2 

Beam^vdle 207 

St.  Catharine's 217 

Thoroid 2'iO 

Niagara  Falls.-- 2^3 


i-_.. 


ROAD, 


it  to 
fALLS. 

MILES 


32 

4G 

74 

90 

100 

no 

120 

1-29 

133 

138 

150 

157 

167 

177 

180 

186 

1132 

202 

207 

, 217 

2-20 

8. -.229 


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